taking apart the yoke/crane for cleaning?

[BuddyD1885]

ok, first, i have several revolvers

1) S&W 686 +

2) Colt Python

3) Korth Mongoose

4) Ruger GP 100 snub nose

5) Taurus 856 UL snub nose

now, this being known, when i clean and lube these, i do not remove the extractor rod and remove the cylinder from the yoke/crane.

do any of you fully disassemble the cylinder from the yoke/crane for cleaning?

from what i gather, the ejector rod tip screws on, is that hard to remove?

like, is it in need of any special tool to loosen it?

first posting, thanks for reading and advising!..

BuddyD1885

 

[k22fan]

I often remove S&W .22 LR cylinders to clean lead off their front ends. Disassembly is the same for centerfires but they usually do not get as much lead fouling on the front of the cylinder. With a flat head that fits the slot well remove the front side plate screw. Open the cylinder and the yoke will slide out of the frame. The cylinder assembly will then slide off the yoke. I seldom unscrew the extractor rod. I've had to tighten them after they worked loose on their own but I do not think I've unscrewed an extractor rod for over a decade.

 

[s&wchad]

I always remove the cylinder and yoke on a S&W when cleaning. I also remove the stocks. It’s simple and allows you to do a much more thorough job. Make sure you use a proper fitting screwdrivers.

Remove the front sideplate screw, lay the gun on its right side, swing the cylinder all the way open, hold the cylinder steady in your right and pull the yoke out the front with your left. I almost never remove the ejector rod/extractor from the cylinder assembly. I just flush that with spray cleaner and blow the excess out.

Doing that allows you to clean the front of the gas ring, the mating frame surface, the inside/outside of the yoke barrel and the face of the cylinder.

 

[Baxter6551]

I always take the yoke and cylinder off as described above. I never disassemble the cylinder further. I put the yoke on the cylinder while it is off the gun and push ejector rod to raise extractor and clean under there with toothbrush and patch. I don’t push the ejector rod without having it supported by the yoke. We were told in the academy that crud accumulates under the extractor star and this is the way we were trained to clean. While the ejector star is raised I put one small drop of oil on the rod. I also put a drop of oil on the yoke

 

[AJ]

As stated easy enough to do and keeps things clean and in proper working order.

 

[BuddyD1885]

I always remove the cylinder and yoke on a S&W when cleaning. I also remove the stocks. It’s simple and allows you to do a much more thorough job. Make sure you use a proper fitting screwdrivers.

Remove the front sideplate screw, lay the gun on its right side, swing the cylinder all the way open, hold the cylinder steady in your right and pull the yoke out the front with your left. I almost never remove the ejector rod/extractor from the cylinder assembly. I just flush that with spray cleaner and blow the excess out.

Doing that allows you to clean the front of the gas ring, the mating frame surface, the inside/outside of the yoke barrel and the face of the cylinder.

yes i bought a set of those hollow ground screws. can't recall from whom, maybe it was Midway?

 

[BuddyD1885]

well, here is what i am experiencing with my Korth 6" revolver.

the wheel slows down, to a near halt after shooting as few as 25 rnds.

i have been shooting whatever i can find, and for now, that is reloaded ammo. the store manager said the reloader is using a clean burn powder (i cannot recall the name), lead bullets.

when i get the gun home, i spray cleaner (or Kroil) into the wheel (bearing/bushing) area and let it soak. then i use an air compressor, to force out the fluid and maybe some gunk?

when i oil all my revolvers, i put a drop of oil at the front bearing/busing, then at the rear for the spring loaded pin, then i wipe some on the extractor rod.

i use Weapon Shield, or i'll use the oil that comes with the gun Gibbs Brand: Firearms and Weapons

today, took it to the range, and same problems....the wheel nearly seizing

cleaned it, wheel spun like it was on fire...

but i did not lubricate it this time, i left it dry, and i really don't know if no lube is better than "some lube"

this has not been a problem other times, with this gun, shooting reloads

thanks again, in advance.

 

[Jeppo]

To answer your question about the ejector rod, yes, it can be difficult to remove if it is properly tight. There are dedicated tools available (IIRC, mine came from Brownells or Midway) to avoid damage.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Other brands have different disassembly procedures than S&W. Some are not intuitive and not easy or recommended.

 

[BuddyD1885]

Other brands have different disassembly procedures than S&W. Some are not intuitive and not easy or recommended.

yes, and thank you.

i do know there is a huge difference between a Korth and a S&W and a Colt

thing is, the gun did not come with an owners manual.

i once found a link to a website for the care and maintenance, but i can not find it now.

i was hoping that someone here might also own a Korth.

 

[Sevens]

^^Ruger raises their hand. GP-100’s are great revolvers but getting the cylinder off them sucks out loud.

IMO, there are two fantastic reasons to pull the yoke and cylinder for the purpose of cleaning. First reason is that -ANY- added resistance to the rotation of the cylinder is the textbook definition of a hindrance. It adds weight and resistance to both single action cocking and more so to your double action trigger stroke. And I’m no engineer, but it seems to me that we are adding weight and resistance to the guts, including the hand and other fairly small and intricate parts, which I feel is best avoided when possible.

Second reason? When you consider the size and weight of a cylinder and the mechanical force advantage you hold over a yoke (and the importance of a precisely fitted yoke!) then I really don’t like to scrub chambers with all that mechanical advantage over the yoke when yoke removal (on a S&W anyway) is so quick and simple.

I’ll reiterate what I’ve said many times before: more modern handguns are damaged from over zealous and careless “cleaning” than have been damaged by neglect.

 

[BuddyD1885]

^^Ruger raises their hand. GP-100’s are great revolvers but getting the cylinder off them sucks out loud.

IMO, there are two fantastic reasons to pull the yoke and cylinder for the purpose of cleaning. First reason is that -ANY- added resistance to the rotation of the cylinder is the textbook definition of a hindrance. It adds weight and resistance to both single action cocking and more so to your double action trigger stroke. And I’m no engineer, but it seems to me that we are adding weight and resistance to the guts, including the hand and other fairly small and intricate parts, which I feel is best avoided when possible.

Second reason? When you consider the size and weight of a cylinder and the mechanical force advantage you hold over a yoke (and the importance of a precisely fitted yoke!) then I really don’t like to scrub chambers with all that mechanical advantage over the yoke when yoke removal (on a S&W anyway) is so quick and simple.

I’ll reiterate what I’ve said many times before: more modern handguns are damaged from over zealous and careless “cleaning” than have been damaged by neglect.

true (about the damages). i use the tried and true Hoppe's 9 for cleaning, and brass/nylon brushes. if there is an area i cannot get into easily? i use a spray cleaner.

i'm going on an "assumption", that for the time being, the reloaded ammo, was causing fouling of the cylinder's rotation. i think i can "assume" the reloaded ammo can be at fault, since the Korth's are made to tighter tolerances for fitment.

once i got the gun home, and did a full cleaning...minus trying to remove the cylinder from the crane, the wheel rotated with such great speed.

i will go back to the range tomorrow (this will be the 3rd day) and bring along .38 special factory ammo, then 38 special reloaded.

shooting the factory first, then the reloaded last.

a final conclusion will/should be apparent then.

in the meantime, before i leave the house, i will put ONE DROP

of weapon shield at the front bushing of the wheel, like all my other revolvers.

i'll report later in the day.

 

[moosestang]

A timely topic for me. I hadn't used my 642 for several months due to knee surgery. When I finally did pick it up, I found I couldn't open the cylinder. It was stuck. Took it to the shop I bought it from, since the gun is less than a year old. He removed the front side plate screw, as mentioned above, and worked the yoke free. It was all gunked up. I will be cleaning this more frequently in the future!

 

[Sevens]

He removed the front side plate screw, as mentioned above, and worked the yoke free. It was all gunked up. I will be cleaning this more frequently in the future!

Are you a user of Rem Oil?

 

[BuddyD1885]

ok guys (and ladies??), i went to the range again today with this Korth (3 days in a row, rare for me)

i took along new factory Blazer Brass, and the revolver shot like a "machine gun", and the wheel spun just as smoothly and faster than an Indy 500 car.

then, i tried the reloaded ammo....

no more than 12 rds, and BAM......the beginning of a wheel lock up.

so of course, this means (to me) that the Korth will not shoot reloaded ammo, due to the smoke and grime associated with reloads.

this is ok, now that i know, i have a CZ 75B, (9MM) that will NOT shoot new Blazer brass, but will EAT UP, reloaded ammo!

but let me tell you, the first day that wheel locked up, scared the **** outta me, as that Korth is no $500 gun......

so got it back home, used Kroil again to get deep into the wheel front bushing(?), blew it out with my air compressor, and good to go.

one more thing, i got the 8oz can of Kroil at the gun range store....$15.00

Amazon, wants...$25.00...????

WHAT....???????

but NO mom/pop hardware store, or big box stores, have it here.

lucky that the range had ONE can left, on the shelf...

thanks for reading and participating!

 

[k22fan]

Reloads are not all the same nor are all factory loads great in any particular gun. While most of us have assembled a few combinations that did not work out in particular guns we've found many great lead bullet reloads for most of our guns. A few of the worst cases of leading I experienced were firing factory cartridges. 1970s Winchester and Remington .44 Magnum cartridges with swaged lead bullets and my 29-2 spring to mind. When I have multiple guns for one cartridge I take a load that didn't work in one gun to my other guns.

 

[s&wchad]

one more thing, i got the 8oz can of Kroil at the gun range store....$15.00

Amazon, wants...$25.00...????

WHAT....???????

but NO mom/pop hardware store, or big box stores, have it here.

lucky that the range had ONE can left, on the shelf...

Kroil is intended for industrial uses. I’ve never seen it in a hardware store, but it’s often offered at gun shows.

They also sell direct at a substantial discount. Last time I bought it, they offered 2 extra large cans of AeroKroil for under $20 shipped. I also recommend getting an 8oz pour can with the spout.

You’ll find their direct ordering phone number here:
KanoLabs.com

 

[BuddyD1885]

Reloads are not all the same nor are all factory loads great in any particular gun. While most of us have assembled a few combinations that did not work out in particular guns we've found many great lead bullet reloads for most of our guns. A few of the worst cases of leading I experienced were firing factory cartridges. 1970s Winchester and Remington .44 Magnum cartridges with swaged lead bullets and my 29-2 spring to mind. When I have multiple guns for one cartridge I take a load that didn't work in one gun to my other guns.

true, as i think i mentioned earlier, i have some guns that will shoot semi wadcutters, and some that will not. i have some that will shoot Blazer Brass, and some will not.

it's always a learning experience at the range.

 

[Pef]

I can speak to only S&W revolvers.

I rarely remove the yoke, and when I do, it is only to lubricate because the cylinder is not spinning as easily as it should. I do not disassemble the cylinder.

I recently did this with my 637, which I carry frequently. After many years my 637 cylinder was not rotating as freely as my other j frames. I removed the yoke, then the cylinder so I could do a better job of cleaning and oiling, and then reassembled. Problem resolved.

I've not had to do this on my K, L or N frames, nor on my other J frames.


I cannot speak to the Korth; that particular design may be sensitive to residue, I don't know.

 

[djohns6]

Kroil is intended for industrial uses. I’ve never seen it in a hardware store, but it’s often offered at gun shows.

They also sell direct at a substantial discount. Last time I bought it, they offered 2 extra large cans of AeroKroil for under $20 shipped. I also recommend getting an 8oz pour can with the spout.

You’ll find their direct ordering phone number here:
KanoLabs.com

My local hardware store has Kroil . It's an ACE affiliate .