625 snubnose project

[Whisper]

I've decided I want to pursue the dream of building a 625 .45ACP snubnose. The failed 625-10 would be a great example if the guns hadn't had so many problems (cracked yokes and frames, guns blowing up), so I'm thinking of making a version with a steel frame and yoke. I have a 625-2 that would serve as the basis of the conversion (and the 3-inch 625-2 is close to what I envision although I'd like a barrel without underlug). I can think of three possible approaches:

1. Find a gunsmith to cut down the barrel of my 625-2 (probably trimming it even with the end of the ejector rod lug).

2. Find a gunsmith to install a 625-10 barrel on my existing 625-2. (Barrels still available from Numrich.) This creates some problems since the 625-10 has fixed sights and a new front sight would have to be constructed, and a lock would have to be added to the yoke since the 625-10 barrel doesn't have a lock for the end of the ejector rod. Two members of the forum have written about attempting this conversion but they haven't been on the forum in quite a while and don't respond to messages, so they're probably gone, and aren't available to answer questions.

3. Find a gunsmith to make and install a new snubby barrel for the 625 from barrel stock. I believe Hamilton Bowen used to do this but he no longer works on S&W double-actions.

Any recommendations for which of these ideas might be most practical? And, any suggestions for a gunsmith to do the work? I've contacted a couple of gunsmiths in my part of the country; one wasn't interested in trying and one wanted $1800 to do the conversion I mention as #1 above. I'm not thinking I want a conversion that costly, but maybe I'm being too cheap?

Or maybe I should just find a 3-inch 625 and say "Good enough...."

Your suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,
Whisper

 

[Loyaljeeper]

The 3” 625s are bringing big money, but then again, all 625s are. On getting my 4” cut down, I keep hearing for smiths that they may not get it for a year or more.

 

[CH4]

Even with the going rate for 3” 625s, I think you’d be money ahead buying an original. I need to start carrying/shooting my -3 more often.

 

[colt_saa]

I like snubbies, all snubbies.


The Scandium framed 625 pug nosed revolvers (both the -10 and -11) were not failures. These were not production revolvers. Smith & Wesson filled both of those Distributor Exclusive Offerings to completion.

The frame cracks are no more or less common to this alloy frame as opposed to all the other alloy frames that Smith & Wesson built over the last 5 or 6 or 7 decades.

Frame cracking is still true of today's alloy framed Smith & Wessons

A steel framed, adjustable sight, pug nosed 45 has always been on my project radar.

I already have a pug barrel on hand from when Numerich was shipping them with the front sight installed. Making a taller front sight for it is not too big of a deal. You might also get away with putting a shorter sight blade into the rear sight assembly

My only issue has been finding a 625 donor for the project. Every 625 that I come across I want to keep in the configuration I purchased it in

 

[steelslaver]

There are also the 325 snubs.

chopped and modified 1917 with adj sights and a 1950 barrel and cut down grip frame (still has original serial number) Currently back in my shop gettin a new cylinder for 45 colt and cut for acp in moon clips.

In my opinion N frame much shorter than the 325s 2 3/4" barrel don't make sense. Once yo conceal the bulk of cylinder and frame a 3" barrel is easy.

Doing a JOVINO type modification where just the very end of the ejector rod shroud is left and a ball detent setup is added is about the end of practical in my book.

You could also find a 1917 or Brazilian, have it cut to just in front of barrel lug, then have it hard chromed

 

[2ndshift]

Mag-Na-Port might still do these type of conversions.

 

[CH4]

Mag-Na-Portmight still do these type of conversions.

Yes, the last time I checked, which was about a year ago

 

[mikerjf]

Remember that you can shorten a barrel by cutting off the frame end and cutting new threads/cone. It's involved but has the advantage of saving the stock front sight.

Just reading a page yesterday about a skilled home machinist doing that.

If I was doing this I'd either cut down a Brazilian or follow the Jovino Effector approach, I think. ~3" would probably make it an overall easier job.

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

The issue that I had with my 625-10 .45 acp was with the aluminum yoke flexing and allowing the cylinder to get past the stop on the frame if I had sticky brass. I found a 625 ss yoke to replace it with. Had to add a ss washer as it was a little smaller. Never messed with the ball detent. No more flex. Turned out great. My winter ccw. I like snubbies too.

 

[jack the toad]

I also like snubbies. My 1917-10 (repost) is the snubbiest.

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

Like that but I would have left it a square butt. Nice.

 

[jack the toad]

You mean like these???

 

[steelslaver]

Problem with turning down the rear and adding threads is that the outside of the barrel swells there and if you turn it down much your barrel to frame fit is going to suck, no mater if it is a 1917, a mountain gun or heavy barrel. You could just start out with a piece of .452 blank, turn it down to fit the frame, then profile it however you like. Cut a lug out of an old piece of barrel and machine it to form a length ways dove tail, cut a matching dove tail length ways under the barrel just long enough to position the lug where you need it. Or simply mill in a key way slot and machine the lug to slide in it and then silver solder in place. You can cut the rod down to what ever length you want and re knurl the tip.

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

Yeah Jack, that’s what I’m talking about. Cool.

 

[jack the toad]

Back to OP’s request, I suggest finding a factory 3” 625 and calling it “good enough”.
If wanted to make it a little special, get one in .45 Colt and cut for moon clips.
Here’s some 4” and 5” 625’s in colt and acp. All are factory except the bottom one which started as a 5” but now has a 4” PC barrel installed. Good luck with your project and keep us informed.

 

[Jebus35745]

I live close to Andy Horvath and it’s cost me a lot of money over the years. The gun in the background is a 3 1/2” 25-2 that I sold, Andy cut the barrel & re-crowned. The front gun is still here, a bucket list engraved 625-3 Bank Note. Waiting on Keith Brown to make a set of grips for it, have a custom tooled holster for it shown. If you could find a 625 on Gun Broker reasonable, the barrel could be cut, crowned and the sight base moved for under 350.00. Maybe a local gunsmith could manage the job. Larry

 

[Whisper]

The issue that I had with my 625-10 .45 acp was with the aluminum yoke flexing and allowing the cylinder to get past the stop on the frame if I had sticky brass. I found a 625 ss yoke to replace it with. Had to add a ss washer as it was a little smaller. Never messed with the ball detent. No more flex. Turned out great. My winter ccw. I like snubbies too.

Baltimore, it looks like you got rid of the adjustable rear sight on your 625 snubby. Can you post a photo of what the rear sight looks like now? Retaining the adjustable rear sight seems like it will require an awfully tall front.

Thanks for all the ideas, folks. I'm in touch with a local gunsmith who is considering the project...although I may also reach out to Andy Horvath.

Cheers,
Whisper

 

[jamestx]

I have envisioned a similar 25 project for years. Mine is 25-2 barrel cut to 3.5”( maybe 2.5”), installed FSB with quick change front sight blades like the 625PC’s with brass dot, and round but the frame with k frame Rd butt. I’ve always preferred nicely blued guns or nickel to SS. Just my preference, you can get an SS Mount gun barrel w/o under lug from eBay or GPC.

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

It never had an adjustable rear sight. I just bobbed the hammer, guess that’s why it looks funny. Andy shortened up a 5.5 inch ss Ruger Vaquero for me years ago.

 

[RETPRPD]

What an interesting thread! I have had good luck with Dick Williams Gun Shop in Michigan. 989-777-1240