Adjusting Cylinder Stop

K Harris

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I need to increase the ball height on a cylinder stop. I understand that the "pad" on the back of the stop needs to be lightly stoned to achieve this. My question is, by doing so is that going to delay the return of the ball ever so slightly because the stop has to rotate a bit further before releasing? Presently, the ball is retuning at the quarter mark of rotation. It would be better if it was closer to half according to Kuhnhausen. I was hoping that changing the geometry ever so slightly by stoning the back of the stop I would also nudge the return closer to half and get the recommended 1/16" ball height. Two birds with one stone so to speak. Or, do I need to fit a new stop that has a longer bevel/trigger slot to get it to release at the halfway point of cylinder rotation, or maybe even a trigger with a longer hook?
 
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The adjustment step is on the top of the cylinder stop. Removing material here will allow the ball to rise higher in the frame, and consequently, into the stop slot in the cylinder when final lock-up occurs.

This adjustment does close the gap between the bevel on the stop and the trigger hook when the action is at rest. The result is that the stop drops down a bit sooner when the trigger is pulled DA, but the stop ball's landing point on the cylinder will not be affected by much, if at all.

The landing point of the stop ball on the cylinder is controlled by the length of the bevel on the stop, and it's interface with the trigger hook.

The exact spot of landing is inconsequential, as long as the stop is not "late" (or too early) in dropping down during the initial DA trigger pull, which results in the ball not being out of the way in time for the instigation of the cylinder rotation by the hand.


 
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Thank you armorer951. The ball on all of my revolvers returns at very close to halfway through the rotation except this one. Kuhnhausen warns on page 87 item 4 of my manual about what can happen if the bevel is too short. If a return at 1/4 rotation is nothing to worry about, I will stone the step to get 1/16" ball height and not worry about the release.
 
Why?

I need to increase the ball height on a cylinder stop. I understand that the "pad" on the back of the stop needs to be lightly stoned to achieve this. My question is, by doing so is that going to delay the return of the ball ever so slightly because the stop has to rotate a bit further before releasing? Presently, the ball is retuning at the quarter mark of rotation. It would be better if it was closer to half according to Kuhnhausen. I was hoping that changing the geometry ever so slightly by stoning the back of the stop I would also nudge the return closer to half and get the recommended 1/16" ball height. Two birds with one stone so to speak. Or, do I need to fit a new stop that has a longer bevel/trigger slot to get it to release at the halfway point of cylinder rotation, or maybe even a trigger with a longer hook?

What is it that you are trying to fix? I have an old k22 that releases the stop even later, yet functions perfectly.
 
Thank you armorer951. The ball on all of my revolvers returns at very close to halfway through the rotation except this one. Kuhnhausen warns on page 87 item 4 of my manual about what can happen if the bevel is too short. If a return at 1/4 rotation is nothing to worry about, I will stone the step to get 1/16" ball height and not worry about the release.


If you must have the extra height because the stop won't hold, I would proceed slowly to see if you get the desired effect. There's about .010" on the adjustment step.
 
ms, the main issue at present is the ball height is too low. This old revolver was purchase in order to learn how to work on them. I actually got two revolvers, one of which was completely inoperable and one that was barely functioning. So, I picked up the Kuhnhausen manual and started diagnosing and fixing the problems. I wish Smith & Wesson would offer the armorers course for civilians.
 
armorer951, thank you for the information. It is holding, but the engagement looks a little weak to me. I measured the height of the ball and it is just slightly lower that 1/16". A couple passes with a fine stone should get it there with less than .010 being taken off. If I blow it I can fit a new one.
 
Also, if you need more engagement with the trigger, you can move the cylinder stop towards the trigger by filing the holes for the pivot pin longer with a rat tail needle file. Then you need to make sure the end of the ball is not contacting the back of the stop window.

This is something I consider an emergency field fix only. It's much better to get a new part that has correct dimensions, either trigger or stop, or both if needed.
 
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