Stubborn Flat Latch

[pdx]

I have a 1964 Chief's Special in excellent condition that I'm going to be putting up for sale soon, but the cylinder latch is near impossible to push all the way forward.

Once the cylinder is released, both the cylinder center pin and and latch move freely. Also the pin in the frame (I think it's the bolt?) that pushes on the cylinder center pin can be pushed into the frame easily.

I'm sure it's my fault for not maintaining it, I haven't fire it for well over a year. I'm wondering how far I need to go to clean it up and if it's something I can do myself. I've done a detailed disassembly of my Colt 1911, but I've never taken a sideplate off a revolver. Can anyone recommend a video that shows which parts I need to clean up and/or other advice?

 

[series guy]

Midway, Brownells, and Jerry Miculek all have great videos on this.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Not to worry. Just discount it a couple hundred bucks and the buyer can deal with it... By the way, what's the discounted price?

 

[Baxter6551]

Terrible …. I wouldn't ask more than a couple of hundred for it. Please PM me prior to posting ???
In all seriousness - Based on your description what about the cylinder latch pin under the barrel. Is there crud there or in the recess of the ejector rod housing that catches the barrel pin ?

 

[310Pilot]

It is quite possible that the extractor rod has turned out in the cylinder, effectively making it a bit to long and mashing it difficult to allow the cylinder latch to move forward enough to easily unlock the cylinder from the frame. That is a common problem seen in S&W revolvers, and is easily remedied by tightening it back up. Remove the crane and cylinder from the frame, pull the cylinder assembly out of the crane, load at least three EMPTY cases or snap caps in the cylinder, place the ejector rod end in a padded vise, and turn the cylinder to tighten the ejector rod assembly in it. Remember, if it is a model marked gun, it has reverse threads (lefty tighty, rightly loosey). I repaired many S&Ws with that same problem when I owned a gun shop in the 1970s. Also, if you do remove the side plate, keep all the screws in proper order, and DO NOT pry it loose, that damages it. After screw removal, tap the grip frame lightly with a wood rod, hammer handle or similar instrument until the side plate pops off the frame. Good luck.

 

[arjay]

Spray a bunch of solvent into the spring in the underlug too. I have an old one with some rust or crud in there and when the guns been sitting for years it hangs up,

 

[pdx]

Midway, Brownells, and Jerry Miculek all have great videos on this.

I was hoping there was one on YouTube

 

[pdx]

Terrible …. I wouldn't ask more than a couple of hundred for it. Please PM me prior to posting ???
In all seriousness - Based on your description what about the cylinder latch pin under the barrel. Is there crud there or in the recess of the ejector rod housing that catches the barrel pin ?

That's ok, actually it was the first thing I checked before I realized the latch was sticking.

 

[pdx]

It is quite possible that the extractor rod has turned out in the cylinder, effectively making it a bit to long and mashing it difficult to allow the cylinder latch to move forward enough to easily unlock the cylinder from the frame. That is a common problem seen in S&W revolvers, and is easily remedied by tightening it back up. Remove the crane and cylinder from the frame, pull the cylinder assembly out of the crane, load at least three EMPTY cases or snap caps in the cylinder, place the ejector rod end in a padded vise, and turn the cylinder to tighten the ejector rod assembly in it. Remember, if it is a model marked gun, it has reverse threads (lefty tighty, rightly loosey). I repaired many S&Ws with that same problem when I owned a gun shop in the 1970s. Also, if you do remove the side plate, keep all the screws in proper order, and DO NOT pry it loose, that damages it. After screw removal, tap the grip frame lightly with a wood rod, hammer handle or similar instrument until the side plate pops off the frame. Good luck.

I had read about loose ejector rods, but I assumed you just needed to swinging the cylinder out. Holding the cylinder, I can't move the rod in either direction (it does have the model number marked). Priority wise, can I also assume would you check the rod after pulling the sideplate and checking for lack of proper lubrication?

 

[pdx]

Spray a bunch of solvent into the spring in the underlug too. I have an old one with some rust or crud in there and when the guns been sitting for years it hangs up,

Quick and simple, this will be the first thing I try when I get home.
If it works I'll let the next owner do a thorough cleaning.

 

[pdx]

Not to worry. Just discount it a couple hundred bucks and the buyer can deal with it... By the way, what's the discounted price?

I'll be open to offers soon...

 

[Oracle]

I experienced similar issues with an estate sale purchase model 29 in which the cylinder release wouldn't budge, the trigger and hammer wouldn't move either. I removed the side plate and found globs of dried grease caking up the entire cavity, no wonder nothing moved. A thorough cleaning followed by one drop of oil; and it was good as new.

 

[kennethg]

try putting the 36 under a light close enough to heat it up a bit and see if that helps. a hairdryer might also warm the gunk up enough to open the cylinder. this has worked for me in the past on revolvers I used WD40 on. stopped using WD40 decades ago.

 

[stansdds]

First, make sure the extractor rod is tight. This is probably the leading cause of a S&W revolver being difficult to open or close the cylinder. Second, a thorough cleaning of the action should be performed. Old, dried lubricants, especially WD-40, will become gummy and cause binding of the internal parts. Once cleaned, give it a proper lubrication.

 

[WR Moore]

If the above cleanings don't work please check the following:

1. With the cylinder center pin pressed flush with the ratchet boss, is the center pin at least flush with the end of the ejector/extractor rod? If not, the rod needs filing to make it the same length or 0.005 in shorter than the center pin length. Don't forget to bevel the outside edge after filing.

2. Looking at the recoil shield with the latch pressed all the way forward, is the end of the bolt (part that presses on the center pin) at least flush with the recoil shield? If it's not flush or standing very slightly proud of the recoil shield, you're having to force the center pin out of the hole it seats in. This is not good. Before going further, remove the thumb piece and see if the bolt nose now is flush/proud of the recoil shield. If it is, you need to file on the front of the little part of the thumb piece that rides in the frame groove.

If that doesn't solve the problem, this means you may have to remove the bolt and file the flat part of the bolt that rests against the back of the recoil shield until you get the bolt nose at least flush with the recoil shield front surface.

WHEN YOU REMOVE THE BOLT, DON'T LOSE THE LITTLE PIN AND SPRING AT THE REAR!

 

[nicky4968]

I recently paid a fair price to have my model 19 given a once in a lifetime disassembly, cleaning, and re-assembly, including tightening the extractor rod. Well worth the price and I didn't stab myself with a screwdriver.

 

[stansdds]

and I didn't stab myself with a screwdriver.

It would be nice if I could say the same thing, but...