Announced this morning;
Oil change question
- Thread starter JcMack
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I change My oil every 6 months regardless of mileage. Mobile 1 works fine. No leaks. I take my Toyota to Wallmart. They charge 19.98 and I go inside and buy the oil. I take a NAPA filter. Used to take My 96 powerstroke to wallmart also. They had bulk Rotella and Fram oil filters. Total cost was $78. Dealer charged $188 for the same service.
prairieviper
Member
I remember that well. When I considered using Mobil V-Twin in my FLHTC, the local Harley dealers were aghast and advised against it. Of course, I used it anyway and the only thing that happened was better performance, particularly during the blazing hot days of summer here in cornfields and cows country. As you say, when Harley started pitching their own brand of synthetic oil, not only did the warnings disappear, their brand of synthetic was recommended for not only the crankcase but for the transmission too.
I run synthetic in everything except the tractor. I change oil when the vehicle computer tells me to. I used to be picky about oil and filters but nowadays, I usually buy Super Tech oil and filters and have the local tire company or dealership do the changing.
I've been using T6 in my bikes for years with no clutch issues. Last I checked it had JASO MA/MA2 on it.
Well then, may just have to give 'er a go in the bike too. T6 at the ready. Thanks for the tip, Oink!
My son is has an automotive bachelors degree from New England Technical Institute. We have had this discussion before. He says do not swap over to synthetic if you have been using fossil in an older car. Why?, because there is a consensus that the thinner oil will leak past your gaskets.I would not do it. Use fossil every 3K miles or 12 months
Whaa? 5W oil is 5W oil- dino or synthetic, Neither is thinner than the other.
FWIW I run all my "purchased used" cars on synthetic. No worries 105,000, 204,000 and 326,000 respectively. No evidence of enhanced seal leaking on any.
The van with 326k on it I did buy new.
Autonomous
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Speaking of wet bike clutches, at least HDs, running Type F ATF will give you a noticeably firmer lockup.
What he was referring to is the molecular structure of synthetic vs petroleum based. It was an issue when synthetics were first introduced and engine makers were still using cork and paper material for gaskets, and yes a 5w synthetic would leak where a 5w petroleum based oil did not. It wasn't dripping leak, more of a seepage issue. However nearly all manufacturers use synthetic materials for gaskets now days so it no longer makes a difference.
As for switching over on a vehicle raised on petroleum based oil to synthetic oil, see my post #28.
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Good advice. I have noticed that I do need to change more frequently for the for few changes after starting with synthetic.
4barrel
Member
Before switching oil look to make sure there is no sludge in the motor. Using a higher grade oil will break the crud loose and clog the oil screen and knock the bearings out. Low mileage autos driven in town have some problems with this.
My experience with synthetic oil, specifically Mobil 1, has been altogether positive.
Beginning in 1992, it was mandated for use in new Corvettes, and shortly after I began using it in my 1989 (C4) Corvette. Given GM engineers know far more about engines than I do I trusted their wisdom.
All my Corvettes since have used it as have all my Range Rovers and now my 2023 Jaguar. Never an engine problem in 30 years…and confident that will continue.
Note: To be clear, the Jaguar recommendation is Castrol EDGE Professional. Since service is complimentary for 5 years I reckon that is what will be used.
Be safe.
Beginning in 1992, it was mandated for use in new Corvettes, and shortly after I began using it in my 1989 (C4) Corvette. Given GM engineers know far more about engines than I do I trusted their wisdom.
All my Corvettes since have used it as have all my Range Rovers and now my 2023 Jaguar. Never an engine problem in 30 years…and confident that will continue.
Note: To be clear, the Jaguar recommendation is Castrol EDGE Professional. Since service is complimentary for 5 years I reckon that is what will be used.
Be safe.
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I remember back about 1978 when Mobil 1 was first getting its big marketing push. There was an article in one of the auto rags where they took a brand-new Vette off the showroom floor, filled it with Mobil one, and drove it hard for 50,000 miles and tore the engine down. No break-in or anything, just routine oil changes, maybe a bit extended. All the cylinders still looked new with bright hone marks still. The only recommendation they had was to break the engine in with regular oil first.
None, as you should use mineral oil for break-in.
Not true. Per the Mobil website:
The manufacturing processes have advanced to the point where the old break in period no longer applies.
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You are not dreaming! Synthetic just lubricates better and you motor will run cooler. You will also get better gas milage too.
Many years ago when I bought a new Harley Davidson Ultra Classic (2008) it ran very hot! My inner thighs would actually get really uncomfortable from the heat! After researching it, I switched to Amsoil which I deem the best of the best synthetic oil and the temperature actually dropped 20ºF. How do I know this? I installed a temperature gauge in the Bike where the ambient thermometer gauge went. I actually saw the difference. I also got about 2 mpg better gas milage. When riding with others who had the same Bike, they always ran out of gas faster and when we stopped to fill up I had a little more gas left in the tank then they did.
After seeing the results of switching to Amsoil, I did it in my SUV's, cars, snowblower, generator, etc. Yes, the Amsoil is pricy, but the benefit is the oil lasts for up to 25,000 miles (normal driving) without being changed. Of course the caveat is that the filter must also last that long as well. Some of the Amsoil filters do go 25K, however many only last 15,000. Doesn't matter to me as I do not drive more than that per year anyway. I change my oil once a year (probably only drive 5-6,000 mi./ year) and I get great gas milage too.
I am not an Amsoil representative nor am I an Amsoil reseller, I just believe in their products as they have performed flawlessly for 14 years now. Amsoil is all I use.
BTW,, no synthetic inherently causes any engine to leak! Synthetic oils flow better, get into nooks and crannies better than conventional oil, and will "find" a leak if there is a compromised gasket or seal better than regular oil will. If your engine does not have any compromised gaskets or seals and your engine did not leak prior to switching, you should not get any leaking. Synthetic is fully compatible with conventional oils, however you dilute the benefits of the synthetic by mixing it with the lower quality conventional oil. Yes - synthetic oil is better oil because it will not break down at the same lower temperatures that conventional oils do, hence you get better protection and better lubrication. Your engine will run cooler and last longer and milage should go up too.
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