larryofcc
Member
Recently, I got into the older semi's. 2 M41's, a M52-2, and 2 M39-2's, one blue and one nickel. All too nice to shoot, so I may buy a beater M39-2 to shoot. Big Larry
39-2 NIB Value. What Say You? Updated with New Price
- Thread starter antilamr
- Start date
AJ
US Veteran
Last edited:
After seeing the additional pictures, I still think it is classed as NIB, but was probably taken to a gun show or two and did not sell. If you are willing to consider it an investment, then try to get the price down a bit and consider it a good investment. If you can't get the price down, then you will have to store this 39-2 for a lot longer before it becomes worth more than what you invested. If you want a shooter, keep looking as this one is collector grade.
OP
Thanks to everyone who's contributed here. I'm in negotiations with the seller and looks like I'll be getting it. I have some questions about the finish and was hoping that some of you more experienced owners could chime in.
The pictures I uploaded were not as good of quality as the ones I was sent. When zooming in on my pictures, I noticed what might be some minor swirl marks on one side and some light scratches on the other (possibly from sliding across a sellers table?) How would I, or can I remove/polish out these to regain the fine mirror finish without sending it off to a professional?
I might be nit picking this but it's what I'm expecting to have when paying top price for the 39-2.
I might start a new thread about this depending on the responses.
The pictures I uploaded were not as good of quality as the ones I was sent. When zooming in on my pictures, I noticed what might be some minor swirl marks on one side and some light scratches on the other (possibly from sliding across a sellers table?) How would I, or can I remove/polish out these to regain the fine mirror finish without sending it off to a professional?
I might be nit picking this but it's what I'm expecting to have when paying top price for the 39-2.
I might start a new thread about this depending on the responses.
NFrameFred
Member
For that kind of money it's not 'nit-picking' if it bothers you.
BUT . . . early on I was enamored with nickel revolvers, but as I became more practical and knowledgeable as I actually used my guns, it became obvious that one could have guns they could use (taking care of them, of course, within reason) and live with wear and use marks . . . . or guns they could collect (in the strictest sense) and refrain from handling a lot taking great care when they were (cotton gloves, pads, not letting your slob brother-in-law get his grubby phalanges on them, etc.). So I gravitated toward stainless as an alternative for toughness but better for usage.
Nickel is a beautiful finish and was initially considered more durable than rust bluing to keep guns looking presentable longer and more rust resistant. But micro scratches, rub marks and the like are inevitable if the forearm is used or handled. Nickel isn't impervious to such and though some minor blemishes can be buffed or polished out, eventually the finish will wear from excessive 'refurbishing' with Flitz or other polishes.
You stated earlier, I believe, that you wanted to shoot the 39-2 but seem to want to have and keep the finish pristine. In the strictest sense, most of us cannot do that no matter how careful we are. And removing minor blemishes is always fraught with danger the more aggressive you have to be with it. Skill with a polishing wheel and abrasives is a fine art and easily over-done to your detriment.
Not trying to be snarky, but if you want one to look at that will maintain its' perfection, a high resolution detailed photograph on the wall of a perfect specimen is all that is likely going to last.
Many 39-2s in hi condition at $750. Nickel less common but unless finish is excellent it's a detraction. Goes with all models. If you are going to shoot what's the point of safe queen? I'm watching for a deal all the time and don't buy $750 blues.
OP
toddimusnimski
Nice possible catch. I first thought it was a casting flaw until looking at it closer. Anyone else able to add to this? I can send a higher resolution photo to anyone who might be able to identify what it is.
Thanks
Nice possible catch. I first thought it was a casting flaw until looking at it closer. Anyone else able to add to this? I can send a higher resolution photo to anyone who might be able to identify what it is.
Thanks
OP
Am I being a knucklehead for not wanting to pay $1300 for this?
AJ
US Veteran
Set the price that you are willing to pay. If he doesn't think that is fair and will not deal to your liking........then take your funds and go elsewhere.
OP
AJ
US Veteran
Your money, your decision..............
Just go buy it already!!!! So what if you (or anyone on an Internet forum) think it's a little over priced (it may or not be). Unless you're giving up buying some groceries to buy it, GET IT NOW! Good grief ……
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Hoosierville IRN
Member
I wouldn't pay that for it. And if it really is NIB, with all the papers, box, etc...and it really is UNFIRED, I sure wouldn't shoot it if I did buy it. That kind of money is only justified if it is original/unfired with all the associated items. Once you shoot it, it loses value IMO.
The short answer is NO.
The longer answer is "well, okay, if you really want it badly enough to pay that much for it, just don't shoot it...keep it in that condition for an investment."
The short answer is NO.
The longer answer is "well, okay, if you really want it badly enough to pay that much for it, just don't shoot it...keep it in that condition for an investment."
If you can take ANY pictures you want to take, I have two places you need to look and take good pictures, and be careful with light and reflections:
--absolute REAR of the slide from the back, just as if you were lining up to take a shot. On the rear of the slide, you get to see how careful any owner has reassembled his S&W pistol after a field strip as the ejector and decock lever (and on later guns, firing pin lock lever) impact the rear of the slide upon reassembly. These marks will be to the left and right of where the hammer lands on the slide each time the trigger is pulled, right at the bottom of the slide where it meets the frame. Take these pictures with the hammer cocked.
--one of the best indicators of use (even though it is irrationally vague!) is where the hammer impacts the frame every time the pistol is fired. As the slide moves back at full speed, the hammer cocks and bounces off the frame. You can see this spot when the hammer is down and you peer top-down from the top of the pistol. The area you should be looking at is 100% hidden when the hammer is cocked, and visible from top-down when the hammer is down. If there is only the slightest mark here, the pistol has been fired very little. If there is a larger bright ding here, the pistol has been fired much more. Typical drawing back of the slide just to inspect or futz with the pistol does not ding the frame in the manner that live fire does.
Neither of these spots are a deal breaker -- but they certainly should be considered if what you are paying for is a pistol in absolute TOP condition.
--absolute REAR of the slide from the back, just as if you were lining up to take a shot. On the rear of the slide, you get to see how careful any owner has reassembled his S&W pistol after a field strip as the ejector and decock lever (and on later guns, firing pin lock lever) impact the rear of the slide upon reassembly. These marks will be to the left and right of where the hammer lands on the slide each time the trigger is pulled, right at the bottom of the slide where it meets the frame. Take these pictures with the hammer cocked.
--one of the best indicators of use (even though it is irrationally vague!) is where the hammer impacts the frame every time the pistol is fired. As the slide moves back at full speed, the hammer cocks and bounces off the frame. You can see this spot when the hammer is down and you peer top-down from the top of the pistol. The area you should be looking at is 100% hidden when the hammer is cocked, and visible from top-down when the hammer is down. If there is only the slightest mark here, the pistol has been fired very little. If there is a larger bright ding here, the pistol has been fired much more. Typical drawing back of the slide just to inspect or futz with the pistol does not ding the frame in the manner that live fire does.
Neither of these spots are a deal breaker -- but they certainly should be considered if what you are paying for is a pistol in absolute TOP condition.
OP
Attachments
First two pics are of no help at all. You want to see where the hammer bounces off the frame when it is being cocked (violently) during the course of live fire. First pic isn't the right angle and too dark, second pic has the hammer cocked and blocking the spot we want to look at.
The 3rd pic is helpful... and the bright vertical line to the left of the cutout where the hammer lands, do you see it? That's where someone has SMACKED the ejector in to the rear of the slide upon reassembly.
Apologies if I sound harsh, donk52 could advise but even a builder at S&W could quite surely have smacked this spot multiple times. Most anyone who isn't a long time deep fantastic of the S&W pistol design smacks the ejector here... some don't realize they are doing it, some probably don't care. It's similar to the "idiot mark" that 1911's suffer, it's just not as obvious.
The 3rd pic is helpful... and the bright vertical line to the left of the cutout where the hammer lands, do you see it? That's where someone has SMACKED the ejector in to the rear of the slide upon reassembly.
Apologies if I sound harsh, donk52 could advise but even a builder at S&W could quite surely have smacked this spot multiple times. Most anyone who isn't a long time deep fantastic of the S&W pistol design smacks the ejector here... some don't realize they are doing it, some probably don't care. It's similar to the "idiot mark" that 1911's suffer, it's just not as obvious.
Token
Member
Really, only you can answer that, is it worth that to you or not?
In CA that is not anywhere near as bad a price as it would be in the rest of the US. And people throwing out comparative prices need to understand the limitations and difficulties of buying off-roster handguns in CA. Understand the whys of handgun pricing in CA.
Because that M39 is not on the handgun roster, and it is already in CA, it may command a price well above what it would bring in other states. If it is PPT eligible that will bring an even higher price, and that $1300 starts to be something I might consider, if I was in the market for that model / configuration. If it is PPT eligible, and if you don't buy it at that price, someone else will, so the seller is not crazy in asking that. If it can't be PPTed then that price is not as appealing, and the potential to sell is less.
Your sig / banner says LEO. You are exempt from most handgun roster limitations. You can buy off roster handguns an FFL has or has imported, but how many FFLs will import a used old model handgun without considering how hard it might be to get rid of? I.e. if he imported that from out of state it would not be PPT eligible and could ONLY be sold to a LEO, or other person with a certification letter.
The supply of such weapons, already available in California, is going to be very limited. Because of the potential difficulties in sales, the probability of any new such weapons coming into the state is very small.
So the question to me becomes, is this pistol PPT eligible? Or is it in an FFLs inventory and cannot be sold to the average California resident? If PPT then the price is not horrible, not great at all, but not insane either. If it is not PPT'able then the price seems high to me.
T!
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