I have been looking for the Lewis Lead Remover without any luck. My wife found 10 located in a warehouse in Germany, but the price over $75. I am on the waiting list with Brownells. I am looking for the .38/357 kit. I have watched the videos on it and it looks like I could sure use one.
Lewis Lead Remover
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StrawHat
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I have used the LLR a lot in the past. Ran out of wire screens one time. Took some Chore Boy copper dish scouring pad and unwrapped a strand. Wrapped that strand around a wire brush and pulled it through. It worked as well as the LLR and less money.
Good luck.
Kevin
Good luck.
Kevin
Save your money,,I got one back in the early 80s and it works great..
But what works just as well and you never have to worry about finding the brass screen for the Lewis lead remover ,,Is a bore swab wrapped with brass strands from a scrubber for pots and pans you get at the supermarket,,Take a few strands and wrap them around a bore swab,or an old brass bore brush,,works just as good ,,and way cheaper!
But what works just as well and you never have to worry about finding the brass screen for the Lewis lead remover ,,Is a bore swab wrapped with brass strands from a scrubber for pots and pans you get at the supermarket,,Take a few strands and wrap them around a bore swab,or an old brass bore brush,,works just as good ,,and way cheaper!
just plain joe
Member
I have used and continue to use the Lewis Lead Remover on my revolvers after shooting lead bullets. As has been mentioned, you can use Chore-Boy to good effect. I have found however, that the rubber tip for the bore and the metal tip for the forcing cone work a lot better as they are specifically designed for the task of removing lead. The rubber tip tightly pushes the brass pad into contact with the lands and grooves of the barrel.
Jm2c.
JPJ
Jm2c.
JPJ
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Worth the wait! The LLR has been a welcomed tool after firing hundreds & hundreds of lead rounds. While you're at it, don't forget to get some extra screens and possibly a conversion kit for another caliber while you are at it.
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I have one but don't use it very often anymore. I've found that a tight fitting patch on a brass cleaning jag (not a slotted tip) pushes out a great deal of it. Follow that with a patch cut from "lead remover" cloth. The patch needs to be tight enough that it's difficult to get it started. With most patches that's just one. With the lead-remove cloth definitely just one layer.
I prefer this as it's non-abrasive. The jag is $6.00.
Or figure out the cause of the leading.....
Benchrest Quality Cleaning Jag
I prefer this as it's non-abrasive. The jag is $6.00.
Or figure out the cause of the leading.....
Benchrest Quality Cleaning Jag
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I occasionally use a Lewis lead remover. I've tried the Chore Boy method. It works, but I prefer the Lewis tool. Something else to consider, and it works very well, is the Brownell Double-Tuff Bronze brush; very stiff bristles (and maybe slightly oversize). It works fine and is also far better for cleaning cylinder throats than a regular brush.
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Didn't Hoppe's have a similar version, without the T-handle? I would think their screens would work, perhaps, if they still make them.
Chubbs103
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Brownells has been out of stock on the 38/357 kit for a long time. I have been curious for years and have been wanting to give them a try. They do have several other calibers in stock and they have the 38/357 adapter kit in stock, so if you need it for more than one caliber.....
One of my recent .44 SPL acquisitions is leading at the forcing cone like a big dog, so I ordered the .44 kit from Brownells while I try to figure out the issue. I haven't used it yet, but will soon (probably after this weekend). I have used the chore-boy method for years, but I decided the LLR has to be easier to use for the forcing cone.
One of my recent .44 SPL acquisitions is leading at the forcing cone like a big dog, so I ordered the .44 kit from Brownells while I try to figure out the issue. I haven't used it yet, but will soon (probably after this weekend). I have used the chore-boy method for years, but I decided the LLR has to be easier to use for the forcing cone.
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For chambers an throats I use a .375 rifle brush.
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....and that's the part of the LLR I use the most, the forcing cone cleaning tip.
Looking at Brownells I'd buy the conversion kit for .38/.357 fo $32 and make a rod or find one.
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That works, too, and I've done the same, but they'll wear down quickly. At least that's been my experience. Brownells DoubleTuff brushes last a bit longer.
murf205
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The Chore Boy works fine but remember the advice to use COPPER even if you have to take a magnet with you to eliminate copper coated steel. I found it at Home Depot if I remember correctly. The coated steel will scratch the barrel and cylinder throats.
OP
Thanks for the replies. My wife located ten LLR's in a warehouse for seventy something dollars. Only crux is the warehouse is in Germany. I think I am down to buying another caliber and then getting the .38/357 conversion kit. I have been on Brownells list for sometime now. I don't know if they are the sole proprietors of the product, but sure don't find it anywhere else.
I like my LLR. I have found you can adapt the brass screens to smaller calibers by trimming them. The throat tool is pretty caliber specific.
I couldn't find the original package for the Hoppe's lead remover I have in addition to the Lewis, but the replacement screen package I have lists a UPC of 26285-51069. Midway shows them as discontinued, however, so the rod probably is, too. It states that the are for all calibers, and are for use with their kits only
. They exactly match the package of Lewis screens I have for .38 & .32 (1"), and work just fine 
. The Lewis .41/.44 screens are a bit larger - that Hoppes adaptor kit was UPC 26285-51067, but the screens are the same as .38.If you really want to save money on the screens, Amazon has brass screens for pipes, with various diameters - fifty 1" screens is about $6 , vs ~$7.50 for 10 from Brownell's, all you have to do is make a ~0.140 in the center for the threaded portion with a hole punch - a 1/8" one would likely work.
FWIW
RJ
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Delta Rose
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Copper wool wrapped around an old bore brush has always done the trick for me.
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