Remington Model 700 - Value

The fact that the words of wisdom came from personal experience of a gun writer who just may be the best ever gun writer in history does not render the experience hearsay or hyperbole because I didn't personally witness it.
 
I have two 700s - one in .243 I inherited from my father in law, and this one in .308 which I bought for myself about 15 years ago. It's dialed in for 50-yard increments out to 500 yards. Anything within that range that I place my crosshairs on will have a .30 caliber hole in it when I press the trigger. I call it my flea flicker - it will flick a flea off a dog's butt easily.

John


(Click for larger image)
 
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I have two 700s - one in .243 I inherited from my father in law, and this one in .308 which I bought for myself about 15 years ago. It's dialed in for 50-yard increments out to 500 yards. Anything within that range that I place my crosshairs on will have a .30 caliber hole in it when I press the trigger. I call it my flea flicker - it will flick a flea off a dog's butt easily.

John


(Click for larger image)


Is that a 700VS?
 
My old 700BDL from very early 25-06 production that I bought used in the early '70s has put more meat on my table than any other rifle I own. I have a couple other 700s, a "Classic" in .270, and a 700SPS in .270WSM which is my go to antelope and Muley gun. It actually bumped the 25-06 due to weight and reach. My Elk rifle is a Ruger 77 MKII, so very different feed systems, and I could care less or notice one bit of difference in the field. But then I have never relied on "experts" for my decisions, only my own seat of the pants experience.
 
I have had two Remington 700's in centerfire. The first I bought at the Base Gunshop at MCAS Iwakuni in Dec. 0f 1971 after my second tour in RVN. It was a 700C Custom in .300 Winchester Magnum. Nice rifle, but ammo was expensive ($20.00 a box of 20 and I was only making a bit over $400 a month as a Sgt. in the Corps). Kicked like a mule and no place to shoot it at home. Had paid $113.00 for it new and sold it for twice that.

The second was a Scout Sniper Association M40 in .308. The LGS was asking $1350 for it and it sat on their rack for three years. I pointed that out and haggled them down to $1000.00. Had a friend work on the trigger and another friend made up a version of Match Ammo for it. Was able to get one inch group at 200 yards off the rest with it. Didn't shoot it much and ended up trading it for a Winchester 52E.

Have had several Remington 40X Heavy Barrels from CMP. Nice rifles, but were sold off to fund other better shooting rifles.
 
It's a Remington 700 .308 Sendero.

John

I wrongy assumed, I guess, that the Sendero was only made with a long action. Your "Sendero" was originally called a 700 VS (Varmint Synthetic). I don't know when Remington labeled it Sendero.

I bought a new 700 VS .308 in October, 1994. I've used it mostly as a cast bullet rifle. I continue to shoot this rifle regularly. It may be the most accurate straight-out-of-the-box unmolested factory production rifle I've owned and I've had a few. Its shoots as well with jacketed bullets as it does with cast.

I'll bet your rifle also shoots quite well.
 
Here's a crappy picture of a sporterized Springfield I found in an LGS I am thinking about trading for. Though I feel like my 700 may be worth a little more.
 

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Let us not forget that the US military M24 and M40 sniper rifles are basically Model 700s. That says a great deal about their durability. One thing about the early M700s that was disliked by some is that putting on the safety locks the bolt handle down. However, that is something easily disabled by anyone having even modest mechanical ability. There are YouTube videos showing how it is done if the bolt locking feature bothers you. I wouldn't bother. Personally, I believe that whether a rifle has a controlled feed or not is immaterial. Both are good. Regarding the .30-'06 cartridge, there is none better for at least 90% of hunting situations in the lower 48. I can say about the same for the .270 Winchester, which is better than the .30-'06 for varmint hunting if using lightweight bullets. On the other side of the coin, the .30-'06 with heavier bullets would be preferable for large heavy game. I have always been amused by how many Texan hunters have rifles in .300 Magnum and similar heavy calibers. There is no part of Texas and no game found in Texas that requires a .300 Magnum-class or larger rifle.
 
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Here's a crappy picture of a sporterized Springfield I found in an LGS I am thinking about trading for. Though I feel like my 700 may be worth a little more.

I wish you would post the barrel code on the left side at the receiver so we could determine the age of your 06 and possible the first letter and numbers of the serial number.

I am like 6string, for me there is a drastic difference between the pre 1993 and post 1993 guns. Those pre '93s were some of the best factory guns ever made in the USA. I have several pre 93 action guns that have been around here for decades. Fantastic guns, I had three Remington guns by the time I was a teenager in the late 60s and they are still at home with me.

Remember in the 60s, 70s and 80s, these guns were the most accurate centerfire bolt guns made by any manufacture and were winning the competition.

Knowledgeable folks determine value bases on when the gun left the mother ship, just like some of the S&W revolvers.
 
These are the best I've got…
 

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Other one..
 

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These are the best I've got…

referring to your Reminton. There will be letters and numbers on the left side of the barrel at the action, near where the serial number is located. These determine month and year of production. in 1975 they started placing one Letter in front of the serial number and looking at your stock, I think it is post 75 so it will have a letter as part of the serial number.
 
I've got a Remington 700 30-06 bought new in 1986. It, like many other 06's loves IMR 4350 powder and will shoot many different bullets into very tiny groups especially for a hunting grade rifle.

I forget the exact trigger pull weight off the top of my head but I'm thinking a little over 4 lbs. Again it's straight out of the box factory rifle.

Through many hundreds of rounds I've never had a moments trouble. FWIW
 
Oh! Gotcha Little Cooner lol
On the barrel PE 93 is stamped, and the SN is B6594XXX
 
If it were a 1984 though, I wouldn't be able to open the bolt while the rifle is on safe, correct? I was a thinking it was a 2010.
 
I think it was eliminated in 1982 but I do not know for sure. I would have to look it up. The original purpose of bolt locking was to prevent the bolt accidentally opening due to climbing through underbrush, etc. If yours has the lock, it is probably best to leave it alone unless it really bothers you. It can be disabled fairly easily but it is not reversible.There are other home "improvements" that can be performed to the 700's trigger if you think it necessary. But the basic original factory trigger is pretty good as-is.
 
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I think it was eliminated in 1982 but I do not know for sure. I would have to look it up. The original purpose of bolt locking was to prevent the bolt accidentally opening due to climbing through underbrush, etc. If yours has the lock, it is probably best to leave it alone unless it really bothers you. But it can be disabled. There are other home fixes to improve the 700's trigger if you think it necessary. But the basic original factory trigger is pretty good as-is.

Curiosity got me wondering?? My bolt is not locked with safety on and it's a 1986 gun.

And yes I consider my trigger more than adequate for it's intended use.
 
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