M629 Hitch in S/A Pull update FIXED

[scruffy]

Thank you armorer951. See post #5.

Took a new 629-6 to the range for first time today. Cleaned and lubed prior to shooting. Gun shoots great, but there is a very slight "hitch" at the very beginning of the single action pull.

If applying pressure to the trigger quickly after cocking, you would not notice it. Clean break and pull averages 4.5 lbs. (I get about 1/4 lb less if I take the measurement after the hitch).

If you are concentrating and slowly applying pressure to the trigger there is a small tactile "tick" or hitch and then the break. It's distracting to me. After I get past the hitch (but don't finish the pull), I can pull the hammer back slightly re-setting the hitch and make it happen again. I can see the trigger move forward a very, very slight amount when I pull the hammer back.

My guess is it has to do with the trigger engagement with the single action sear. Any advice or suggestions on how to smooth it out or eliminate are welcome.

 

[barkbark]

I am interested in this, too. I have a 686-6 that acts the same way. It feels like there are two single action sear surfaces, a light tiny one followed by the normal feeling release.

 

[armorer951]

Check the sharp edge of the SA bevel on the trigger. There may be a defect there.

Old lubricant or dirt imbeded in the SA notch in the hammer is also a possibility, along with a few other things.
(Does it have this "hesitation" in SA with the cylinder open and the thumbpiece held back?)

A good cleaning of the interior might solve the problem if the cooking notch and the trigger bevel are ok.

Carter

 

[scruffy]

I took the hammer out and lightly cleaned up the cocking notch and small sear notch surface. Didn't want to remove the trigger but the SA sear surface looked ok to the eye. Cleaned the inside good and all of that reduced the SA trigger pull to 4 lbs even. But a slight hitch remains at the beginning of the pull although it feels a little less noticeable now. It happens with the cylinder open also. Only 120 rounds down range so I'll give it a while to see if it improves. If not, I've got a good local smith who could smooth it out.

Check the sharp edge of the SA bevel on the trigger. There may be a defect there.

Old lubricant or dirt imbeded in the SA notch in the hammer is also a possibility, along with a few other things.
(Does it have this "hesitation" in SA with the cylinder open and the thumbpiece held back?)

A good cleaning of the interior might solve the problem if the cooking notch and the trigger bevel are ok.

Carter

 

[armorer951]

Smith and Wesson teaches what they call "marrying" the hammer and trigger to eliminate creep.

Light pressure (6 to 8 pounds) on the back of the hammer then dry fire single action, repeat.

Three or four of these pressure added SA dry fires and the defect is gone. Rubs off the defect. Actually works on occasion.

 

[scruffy]

Smith and Wesson teaches what they call "marrying" the hammer and trigger to eliminate creep.

Light pressure (6 to 8 pounds) on the back of the hammer then dry fire, repeat.

Two or three of these pressure added dry fires and the defect is gone. Rubs off the defect. Actually works on occasion.

Worth a shot. I just have to keep the pressure light enough as not to create damage. I'll use my Timney spring trigger gauge hooked on the back of the trigger under the thumb piece with under 8 lbs. of pull. Thank you.

 

[329]

Smith and Wesson teaches what they call "marrying" the hammer and trigger to eliminate creep.

Light pressure (6 to 8 pounds) on the back of the hammer then dry fire, repeat.

Two or three of these pressure added dry fires and the defect is gone. Rubs off the defect. Actually works on occasion.

Yep. Also works on 1911's.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

I'm a bit hesitant to chime in here, because my basic knowledge is rather limited, but I do have a bit of experience at my own limited level. Based on successful resolution of more serious problems than yours, I would highly recommend cleaning and very lightly lubricating trigger, hammer, rebound slide and all the small parts and frame surfaces with which they interact with RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube. Not much risk, and a good chance that you may be pleasantly surprised.

 

[chief38]

On brand new S&W Revolvers this usually does wear in and goes away. Don't know if it will in your case but until shooting 300 - 400 rounds I'd do nothing and see what happens. I recently purchased a NIB M19 2 1/2" RB from 1974 and out of the box I could feel a slight hesitation on some SA pulls (or creep if you will) but after a few hundred live shots it has disappeared (wore in).

BTW, 4.5 pounds on a SA pull should also decrease to around 3 - 3.5 pounds - at least that's usually the case on vintage models. Your strain screw maybe a bit too long. When your SA pull is heavy (I do consider 4.5 pounds slightly heavy on a Smith) it might be exaggerating any slight imperfection in the engagement surfaces. Again, I would not do anything until you've fired 300 - 400 rounds.

 

[scruffy]

armorer951, Thank you so much for this. It worked. I did 4 dry fires with about 7lbs of pressure on the back of the hammer and the hitch, creep, tick, whatever completely disappeared! Trigger pull is now at 3 lbs 12 oz. Again thank you for the suggestion. Much appreciated.

Smith and Wesson teaches what they call "marrying" the hammer and trigger to eliminate creep.

Light pressure (6 to 8 pounds) on the back of the hammer then dry fire single action, repeat.

Three or four of these pressure added SA dry fires and the defect is gone. Rubs off the defect. Actually works on occasion.

 

[barkbark]

It worked for me, too! Thank you armorer951!

armorer951, Thank you so much for this. It worked. I did 4 dry fires with about 7lbs of pressure on the back of the hammer and the hitch, creep, tick, whatever completely disappeared! Trigger pull is now at 3 lbs 12 oz. Again thank you for the suggestion. Much appreciated.

 

[stansdds]

Smith and Wesson teaches what they call "marrying" the hammer and trigger to eliminate creep.

Light pressure (6 to 8 pounds) on the back of the hammer then dry fire single action, repeat.

Three or four of these pressure added SA dry fires and the defect is gone. Rubs off the defect. Actually works on occasion.

That is one of the things I do when I buy a new handgun, be it pistol or revolver. It will not cure a roughly machined and gritty action, but it certainly helps with smoothing slightly rough surfaces. Dry firing also helps and is the only way to mate engagement surfaces in striker fired pistols or revolvers that have fully enclosed hammers.