Hammer shims

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I can see a noticeable difference in the hammer clearance in the frame, side to side, carry up is good, the primer indents are close to the edge of the primer pocket.What should the yoke align with?
 
Are there rub marks on the sides of the hammer? That can be a sign too.

I had one do that to me years ago. Turned out it was on one bore only and there was a major flaw in the machining of one of the cylinder notches.

It is normal for an old style (hammer nose( firing pin to hit somewhat off center. Way off center is odd. Photos???
 
The purpose of hammer shims is simply to move the hammer a few thousandths of an inch one way or another when one side of the hammer is noticeably dragging in the frame and being marked. A strictly cosmetic issue. Sometimes a shim can be placed on both sides of the hammer, but often this is too much and the hammer will be bound in the frame when the sideplate is tightened. If the firing pin is hitting significantly off-center there is no way to move the hammer that far in the frame. It may be a carry-up issue or the stop notches in the cylinder may be mis-located slightly. As long as the gun fires dependably don't worry about it!
 
The purpose of hammer shims is simply to move the hammer a few thousandths of an inch one way or another when one side of the hammer is noticeably dragging in the frame and being marked. A strictly cosmetic issue. Sometimes a shim can be placed on both sides of the hammer, but often this is too much and the hammer will be bound in the frame when the sideplate is tightened. If the firing pin is hitting significantly off-center there is no way to move the hammer that far in the frame. It may be a carry-up issue or the stop notches in the cylinder may be mis-located slightly. As long as the gun fires dependably don't worry about it!

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What Alk8944 said
 
The purpose of hammer shims is simply to move the hammer a few thousandths of an inch one way or another when one side of the hammer is noticeably dragging in the frame and being marked. A strictly cosmetic issue. Sometimes a shim can be placed on both sides of the hammer, but often this is too much and the hammer will be bound in the frame when the sideplate is tightened. If the firing pin is hitting significantly off-center there is no way to move the hammer that far in the frame. It may be a carry-up issue or the stop notches in the cylinder may be mis-located slightly. As long as the gun fires dependably don't worry about it!

Provided the cylinder is properly lined up with the barrel. If the barrel cylinder alignment is bad enough you are shaving lead the gun needs to go back to the factory because that cylinder may have been machined improperly.
 
In re: post #5

Several years ago I bought a used K frame .38 with a side plate that hadn't been well fitted/originally machined. It had an internal defect at the top that protruded significantly into the hammer path. (Wonder if it was a late Friday afternoon assembly/inspection?) Even after considerable file work there was still just a smidgen of drag on the hammer. Rather than try to figure out where the remaining issue was, I decided to try a shim. One hammer shim was all it took to get things centered up properly.

That said, you're not likely to see firing pin/striker imprints dead center on any cartridge fired in a handgun. At least one that wasn't hand built for perfection.
 
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Regarding the OP's troubles, I'm in the camp that says hammer shims won't help. The firing pin bushing in the recoil shield will force the firing pin to a specific location regardless of how well the hammer is centered up. If the bushing is terribly worn, then disregard my point. If the hammer is so badly centered, then the firing pin would bind in the bushing. To my thinking, the problem is forward of the recoil shield.
 

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