Model 29 bought for the stocks- update after Curtis worked his magic

[raljr1]

Post 36 for the after photo


I saw this nickel Model 29 on GB. Few photos, and no bids. I looked at the grips and decided to put in a minimum bid. The gun is shooter grade for sure, but I have wanted 4" barrel 29. Pitting along the backstrap was disclosed. The blued front sight led me to believe this might be an early 29. Not sure of the dash number yet. If the grips are in good condition, I think I did ok at $1000, given today's market. I'll update after i get it in hand next week.

Robert

 

[22hipower]

Don't see how you can go wrong with that buy! Nice find. You can probably put a set of correct stocks on it and get your money back and have the "cokes" for free.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[Hawg Rider]

Looks pretty good to me except for a few needed repairs (front sight insert and rear sight blade). Aren't those Coke Bottle stocks? If so, as you probably know, there are some great craftsmen here on the Forum that can refinish those for you. I believe all the front sights on nickel N-frame revolvers were blued on the earlier models, and this one could be a no dash. I think this one will polish up nicely, and you did OK at $1K. Looking forward to more pics after you take delivery and clean it up.

 

[series guy]

Very nice find. Fifteen minutes with some Mothers Mag Polish and a pair of target grips from your stash will result in a $1500 Model 29 and a pair of "cokes" in your stash.

 

[Retired W4]

The ejector rod looks like the right hand thread as well.

 

[mojave30cal]

You can't purchase a model 29 for less than a grand anymore.
Nice find.

 

[weatherby]

I looked at the ejector rod to help date it also.

 

[Xfuzz]

WTG...
Excellent score....

 

[Retired W4]

Yes, huge score. Way to go.

I think I could live with the pitting on the back strap. For a Grand? Yep.

 

[stansdds]

Yeah, you did about $500 worth of "OK". Nice investment of $1000.

 

[raljr1]

If it really is a 4" nickel 29 no dash, I hope you leave the stocks with the gun.



That's a real find, especially with original cokes that have the patina to match the rest of the revolver. That gun has history. Stories to tell.

I will clean it up and keep the stocks on it. I will letter this one..

Robert

 

[LittleAugieMo]

Would "do that deal" any day all day any time. Great snag!

 

[BC38]

Don't see how you can go wrong with that buy! Nice find. You can probably put a set of correct stocks on it and get your money back and have the "cokes" for free.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

Yeah, or sell the Cokes for around $600 (maybe more - assuming the right panel looks as good as the left panel in the photo) and then you end up with a nickle plated early model 29 for $400 out of pocket. DEFINITELY a win!

Either way, you did VERY well on buying that one for $1000.

The minor finish issues will pretty much disappear with a little Mothers Mag Polish and a cotton buffing wheel in a Dremel tool.

Apply a little Renwax after polishing the blemishes away, and the finish issues will be almost impossible to spot. Been there done that...

 

[Hair Trigger]

The ejector rod looks like the right hand thread as well.

How do you tell the right-hand thread rod from a left-hand thread one, without trying to unscrew it? What is the visible difference?

 

[BC38]

How do you tell the right-hand thread rod from a left-hand thread one, without trying to unscrew it? What is the visible difference?

Good question.

I would also like to know how to tell a right-hand threaded ejector rod from a left-hand threaded ejector rod, just by looking at them.

The ejector rod on the revolver in the picture doesn't seem to have any readily identifiable features. It isn't a "mushroom head" or a "LERK" (Large Ejector Rod Knob). It looks like the same knurled-end ejector rod that has been the standard since about the time that S&W revolvers were assigned model numbers.

So what about its appearance indicates that it has right-handed (vs. the current standard left-handed) threads?

Please forgive my ignorant question - I'm still learning...

 

[raljr1]

How do you tell the right-hand thread rod from a left-hand thread one, without trying to unscrew it? What is the visible difference?

Supposedly, the LH threaded ones have a small groove cut behind the knurling...

 

[BC38]

Supposedly, the LH threaded ones have a small groove cut behind the knurling... like this

Robert

OK, so if I'm understanding you correctly, there is a "border" groove between the knurled and smooth parts of the ejector rod on the LH ejector rods?

Can anyone post a picture of a right-hand tread ejector rod that DOESN'T have that "border" groove - just so that we can all see the difference?

Like I said, some of us are still learning...

 

[raljr1]

Not a large groove, but you can see the difference...the top is a 27-2, the bottom is the originally posted picture

.

Robert

 

[Retired W4]

Very early (1963) 29-2. with left hand thread. Don't have a -1 but it would be similarr.

 

[Retired W4]

Pre 27 with right hand thread for comparison.