Model 28-2 is transitioning to a 44spl

[biblethumpincop]

I was given this 1966 model 28-2 by my Grandpop a few months before he passed away in 1985. I don't shoot it much, because a gun that big beckons to be a larger caliber. 357 is great in an L frame size revolver.

44spl is one of my favorite calibers and I reload so I love making the Skeeter loads. I found a 6.5" 44spl barrel (pinned) and it came with 2 cylinders (44spl and possibly 44-40?). Since I will never sell my gun, I love 44spl, and it will be more shootable, I will have a local gunsmith swap the barrel and 44spl cylinder.

I think the parts are from a 1950 Target 44, but I'm not certain. I don't see much use for the 44-40 cylinder so I probably won't have it fitted.

I can't wait! Maybe it will get trimmed to 5" some day!

 

[Marksman]

I have had a few M/28's that have been converted to .44 Specials, including one that I had shortened to 5". The late Skeeter Skelton was a big promoter of of the 5" barrel, I like 5" barreled N-frame S & W's because I find this barrel length to have ideal balance. I would certainly encourage you to proceed with the conversion you have in mind.

 

[Burnston]

I recently went through the same process with a 28-3. Just posted a thread about it, in fact, if you care to take a look if you haven't already.
I can get along with anyone packing a .44spl.

A "Special" State of Mind (The .44 Kind)

 

[Green Frog]

I saw those parts offered for sale and thought about doing just what you’re planning. I’m glad you got them and will put them to good use. I would encourage you to have the 44-40 cylinder fitted as the project is done (assuming it’s not just another 44 Spl cyl). It won’t cost that much in the big scheme of things, and you never can tell. The 44-40 is a fun round to shoot. I’m thinking of having a 32-20 cylinder made for my custom stainless 327 Fed Mag (Project 616). If I’d had the cylinder in hand when I had the original build done, I very likely would have had it built for both!
Froggie

 

[biblethumpincop]

I saw those parts offered for sale and thought about doing just what you’re planning. I’m glad you got them and will put them to good use. I would encourage you to have the 44-40 cylinder fitted as the project is done (assuming it’s not just another 44 Spl cyl). It won’t cost that much in the big scheme of things, and you never can tell. The 44-40 is a fun round to shoot. I’m thinking of having a 32-20 cylinder made for my custom stainless 327 Fed Mag (Project 616). If I’d had the cylinder in hand when I had the original build done, I very likely would have had it built for both!
Froggie

The 2nd cylinder is the same length, but when I drop 44spl rounds in the holes, they stick up about 1/8". I presume that means it's a 44/40 cylinder?

 

[DETROIT]

Make sure you send it to a smith who knows revolvers.
Ten Ring Precision | Custom Guns Based in San Antonio
The Home of Quality Custom Firearms, Tactical Training and The Tactical Marksman's Match...
Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ
https://www.geminicustoms.com/sw-revolvers/
Revolvers - Defensive Creations Gunsmithing

 

[StrawHat]

I built a 45 ACP from a Model 28-2. The only thing I had done by someone else was boring and rifling the barrel. Turned out great! Still have it and shoot it.

The 44 S&W Special is a good cartridge also. If you are thinking of a 5” barrel, have it done now, with the rest of the work. It will not add that much time or money to the project and you won’t have to get new leather.

Keep us posted!

Kevin

 

[Capt. F.]

My .44 Special built on a Model 27.
It had already been hacked up/re-blued as a .357 so with no collector value it was the perfect candidate.

 

[Bald1]

I agree 100% about N frame needing to be larger caliber. Every time I bring it up I get lectured about the 27/28 being the finest revolver S&W ever made blah blah blah. It might be but it’s like having a big block V8 that puts out 100 hp….. why bother?

 

[Green Frog]

The 2nd cylinder is the same length, but when I drop 44spl rounds in the holes, they stick up about 1/8". I presume that means it's a 44/40 cylinder?

You’re asking me? I have a Model 29-2 (44 Mag) I haven’t shot in years and recently sold my Uberti/Navy Arms Henry in 44-40 after a hundred rounds or two. I’m not the expert on 44s by a long shot. Do you have (or can you get) a 44-40 round to try in it? If the chamber is too fat at the back and won’t accept a 44 Spl round at the throat, I’d say 44-40 is a good guess.
Froggie

 

[Jebus35745]

Great project, you could sell the model 28 barrel & cylinder also to help fund the project. Personally, I would have the barrel cut when you convert it. It’s all done. You could enjoy a great barrel length right from the start. Good luck, Larry

 

[LostintheOzone]

I guess somebody has to keep those gunsmiths in business.

They're dropping like flies around here.

 

[Photog]

I built a 45 ACP from a Model 28-2. The only thing I had done by someone else was boring and rifling the barrel. Turned out great! Still have it and shoot it.

The 44 S&W Special is a good cartridge also. If you are thinking of a 5” barrel, have it done now, with the rest of the work. It will not add that much time or money to the project and you won’t have to get new leather.

Keep us posted!

Kevin

Several years ago I ended up with a M27-2 that had been rebarreled to 3.5", and a so-so reblue. I had a spare M25-2 cylinder and wanted to have the 27 converted to 45 ACP by reboring and fitting the 25-2 cylinder. I contacted a very well thought of pistol smith to discuss the conversion. He told me that you couldn't rebore the barrel because the way that S&W attaches the front sights, you could not rebore because the sight "may be dovetailed into the barrel and you would ruin the barrel by reborring." Sold the gun and ended up getting a 24-3 4"" instead. My feeling to this day is that he just didn't want to do the job.

 

[alwslate]

I agree 100% about N frame needing to be larger caliber. Every time I bring it up I get lectured about the 27/28 being the finest revolver S&W ever made blah blah blah. It might be but it’s like having a big block V8 that puts out 100 hp….. why bother?

Well some of us like the fact that the 27/28 might be a bit over built for the .357. That means a no-nonsense load like a 158 gr cast SWC at 12-1300 fps is a piece of cake for the N frames.

 

[StrawHat]

…He told me that you couldn't rebore the barrel because the way that S&W attaches the front sights, you could not rebore because the sight "may be dovetailed into the barrel …

WOW! I am aware of NO Model 27s, from the factory, with dovetailed sights. He is FOS!

I agree, he did not want the job. After that comment, he would get none of my work. Is he still working? As a gunsmith?

Kevin

 

[steelslaver]

The ramp on N Frame barrels sits on top of the ribb, but has a key piece that goes in a slot in rib and the key is cross pinned. You would have to completely bore the front section of barrel away to even come close to hitting the bottom of that slot. But op states he has a barrel in 44 to start with.

I have a 28 cylinder I reamed to make a recessed 44 special cylinder, I just haven't came up with barrel yet

 

[biblethumpincop]

My gunsmith called and said it has great lockup. Very solid. He said the gun is having light strikes so he ordered a hammer nose. Hopefully that will take care of the issue.

 

[Marksman]

One of the causes of light strikes is a weak mainspring or a strain screw that is not seated tightly or has been over shortened by a bubbasmith in an attempt to lighten trigger pull. If the new firing pin doesn't cure light strikes I'd suggest replacing both of those parts.

 

[dobegrant]

I have a really nice 4” 28 in like 99% condition if it were rougher I would also think about this swap.

 

[BLACKHAWKNJ]

Given that it is an heirloom and the M-28 is long out of production, I would leave it as is, but since it's yours.....recall Skeeter Skelton's articles from 1972 about converting one. An M-28 is as close to an all around revolver as we have.