S&W Model 36 in .32 S&W Long? *Update*

If you carry that for defense and the bad guy sees you have a J-frame, boy is he gonna be surprised if he counts only five shots from you. ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: CH4
The serial number is in the range of post was 32 hand ejectors. I think the frame was miss marked.

^^^I agree to what Toyman said above ^^^^

I’ve got a S&W Model 30-1 with a 2” barrel from 1969 or 1970 that clearly has the 0 in the 30-1 stamped over a 6, as in a Model 36, but the gun is clearly a 6 shot cylinder in .32 S&W Long caliber.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7213.jpg
    IMG_7213.jpg
    70.3 KB · Views: 319
If you carry that for defense and the bad guy sees you have a J-frame, boy is he gonna be surprised if he counts only five shots from you. ;)

“I know what you're thinking. Did he fire six shots or only five? Well, to tell you the truth, in all this excitement, I've kinda lost track myself. But being as this is a .44 magnum, the most powerful handgun in the world, and would blow your head clean off, you've got to ask yourself one question: "Do I feel lucky?" Well, do ya, punk?”
Clint Eastwood
 
Does the cylinder rotation still feel stiff when it’s open or only when closed?

Since the cylinder and extractor star have been changed, the most likely cause is the star rubbing on the breechface. A little stoning on the star ratchet teeth maybe all it needs.

Only when closed. I thought the ejector rod was bent, but it's really not too bad. I can't figure it out. If you milk the trigger, two chambers don't engage the cylinder stop completely. You have to give the trigger a good pull. I've also ran into the same issue when cocking in single action. I'll take a look at the ratchet teeth.
 
^^^I agree to what Toyman said above ^^^^

I’ve got a S&W Model 30-1 with a 2” barrel from 1969 or 1970 that clearly has the 0 in the 30-1 stamped over a 6, as in a Model 36, but the gun is clearly a 6 shot cylinder in .32 S&W Long caliber.

attachment.php

Interesting.

One of my grip panels is a replacement "marked J, which I thought was used for commercial grip sales? It has what looks like an over stamp of my serial number over another number. The other grip has no "J" mark and has the serial number.

I guess $100 would solve the mystery. Or some who's a member of the SWCA could ask Roy for me? ;)
 
Hard to make out. Looks like it may have been scrubbed? And the cylinder holes may have been reamed to .32 H&R magnum. I also noticed a few dings around and on the barrel pin, that you wouldn’t expect on an original barrel pin.

And it wasn’t mentioned in this post, but the cylinder rotation is a little stiff. Which could indicate things not going together as well as a factory build.

I thinks it was someone’s project. I’m fine with it. I just want a .32 shooter. And kicked around the H&R Mag conversion myself.

My favorite old-time author, Major George C. Nonte, wrote a lot about doing modifications to revolvers (back when they were cheap and plentiful). I don't think it is impossible that someone worked on this one.

Very nice gun. I would be proud to have it.
 
Only when closed. I thought the ejector rod was bent, but it's really not too bad. I can't figure it out. If you milk the trigger, two chambers don't engage the cylinder stop completely. You have to give the trigger a good pull. I've also ran into the same issue when cocking in single action. I'll take a look at the ratchet teeth.

It is likely that whoever installed the 32 cylinder used the original yoke and the yoke tube is just a tiny bit long for the center hole in the 32 cylinder. Then when it is closed up the ratchet face is to hard up against recoil shield with the end yoke tube hard up against the end of cylinder hole. A slight minus endshake situation. You need about .001 endshake for the cylinder to rotate smoothly.

I would put Prussian blue on end of tube press cylinder on it and rotate it a couple times. Then with the cylinder back off if there are any spots on the end of the tube where the blue is wiped off while others are still fully coated, those are high spots and pressing on them squarely and dragging on a diamond sharping pad will flatten, square and polish the end of the tube.

Hondo's fix will also correct this. Removing material from the center button of extractor will also close up headspace. Check to make sure you have .002 or so clearance between a cartridge head and recoil shield at the firing pin bushing before removing any from center of extractor.

Once the cylinder rotates freely, recheck the carry up and if a chamber is tiny bit slow holding a flat faced punch on it's tooth and giving it a wack with a small hammer will fix it. The hand only rides on one surface of the tooth and the wack will displace enough material that the hand will be in contact longer. Your other choice is measure the thickness of your hand and then replace it with one slightly wider. But, i have used the punch method a couple times and it has worked well.

Enjoy your 32. I have a small collection of them I frames J & K frames and they are fun too shoot and personally when I want to carry a small gun, I believe a 6 shot 32H&R is a better choice than a 5 shot 38 special.
 
Last edited:
Interesting.

One of my grip panels is a replacement "marked J, which I thought was used for commercial grip sales? It has what looks like an over stamp of my serial number over another number. The other grip has no "J" mark and has the serial number.

I guess $100 would solve the mystery. Or some who's a member of the SWCA could ask Roy for me? ;)

Or better yet you could join the SWCA and be able to ask that and more.
 
Thanks everyone for all the info.

I did manage to get the cylinder moving a little easier while in the frame. But it still suffers from the lock-up issue if you milk the trigger. I bought this as a range shooter, so no big deal.

And as some of you predicted, I went all in and ordered a Ruger LCR in .32 Federal Mag. I would have gone with a Smith, but nothing is available except for collector price offerings. But I've been kicking around ordering the Ruger for a few months now.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: A10
Thanks everyone for all the info.

I did manage to get the cylinder moving a little easier while in the frame. But it still suffers from the lock-up issue if you milk the trigger. I bought this as a range shooter, so no big deal.

And as some of you predicted, I went all in and ordered a Ruger LCR in .32 Federal Mag. I would have gone with a Smith, but nothing is available except for collector price offerings. But I've been kicking around ordering the Ruger for a few months now.

Yes S&W only did one offering in 327 and very few in 32 H&R. I have several S&W 327 mags, but only because I built them myself
A 6" built on a J&G gunsmith special frame
f6EXx32.jpg

a 3" built on a J&G gunsmith special frame
TlkAXLa.jpg

and a 2" hammer less build on a 642 frame using a J frame 32 H&R cylinder/ The recoil in the alloy frame is kind of snappy.
ohEobOh.jpg


I also made a 327 cylinder for my 16-4
 
So, after all my tinkering, I swapped my 1972 model 36 trigger/hand into this gun and it took care of the timing issue. And closer inspection of the hand on this .32, did show some wear. I ordered a couple of trigger/hands off ebay to try out.
 
Nice little gun you got there, no matter what's stamped in the yoke.

I am going to step up and be the first to encourage you to rid yourself of that oddball thing. .32 guns are addictive, and if you don’t part with it now it will be the beginning of the end of every spare nickel you can scrounge up. By the MLK, JR. holiday, you most likely will be posting photos of your second .32 or asking for advice on its purchase. By Valentine’s Day you will own number three, or possibly four, and may own six by Easter Sunday.

Good luck with this.

I can't swear this is true, but I have seen indications of it since I bought a little I frame, 32 Hand Ejector 3rd Model a week or so ago. I like to get something out of the safe to use as a fidget spinner when at my desk, or watching TV. I've noticed lately it's been that silly little 32 that gets the nod. I find myself watching U-tube video's about the 32, and searching for reloading components. I even ordered snap caps for it. I haven't even shot it yet, but it's really growing on me. Ok. I'll admit it. It's just "cute." It's been refinished, it's got the wrong stocks, but who cares? I'm almost afraid to shoot it for fear of one day finding myself in an alley somewhere going "Psssstttttttt...got any 32's?" :o :
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: A10
If the slight hang up was occurring right at the end of the trigger pull or hammer cocking, it was the new hand working its way past a tight ratchet tooth. As the hand is much harder than the ratchet it will rub enough material off the tooth so that it smooths up.

In fact watch this video from about 4:30 to see how the factory uses an extended length trigger to cut the ratchet teeth. In fact the whole video is a fascinating look at how they fit and assemble revolvers

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQ3HDLkB5l8[/ame]
 
Back
Top