66 No Dash Refinishing Options?

[Cirrus]

I have a 2.5" 66 no dash that has a lot of sentimental value to me. I love the gun and still shoot in on occasion, but it's one I will keep forever and pass down to my son. But the gun has seen a lot of holster wear, various Flitz polishing over the years, and just normal cosmetic wear. I would like to send it back to Smith and Wesson (or somewhere else for that matter) where it can be refinished to look factory new again. Smith Performance Center offers three levels of refinishing, Bright Polish, Standard Polish, and Glass Bead. I'm not sure which of these I should go with. I'm almost certain I don't want the Bright Polish. I'm leaning toward Standard Polish or Glass Bead. I think I'd really like to return it to what it would have looked like new. What should I do?

I'm also trying to figure out what to do about a new set of grips also. It had Uncle Mikes rubber grips for many years, but I swapped them out for some Magna grips and a Tyler T-Grip adapter which is kinda cool looking. But I'm thinking I should tr to find a set of original combat grips. Just not sure where to start looking for these. I was at a gun show this weekend and couldn't find a single pair of K-frame RB combat grips in the whole show.

 

[Vtgw938]

Your 66 likely came with magna stocks so assuming you have correct period ones, it's hard to beat those with a t-grip. Combats show up here in the classifieds. I've sold several sets.

I don't know if any of those finish options is like the original (not bright polished or blasted for sure) but I would just use some grey scotchbrite pads and work on it by hand. There are several threads here that describe it and I have done it with great results. Use some oil until you are comfortable with what you are doing.

Here is my 66 and yes I gave it the scotchbrite treatment, new red insert and it is wearing a vintage set of Guy Hogue stocks.

 

[Cirrus]

Your 66 likely came with magna stocks so assuming you have correct period ones, it's hard to beat those with a t-grip. Combats show up here in the classifieds. I've sold several sets.

I don't know if any of those finish options is like the original (not bright polished or blasted for sure) but I would just use some grey scotchbrite pads and work on it by hand. There are several threads here that describe it and I have done it with great results. Use some oil until you are comfortable with what you are doing.

Here is my 66 and yes I gave it the scotchbrite treatment, new red insert and it is wearing a vintage set of Guy Hogue stocks.

I appreciate the input. I really don't mind paying to have a high quality refinish done to the gun. I don't really have the time, and frankly likely wouldn't be happy with the result if I did it myself. Mine is a slightly more polished version of what yours looks like and has what'd I'd call very fine "spiderweb" scratches and swirls in the stainless. I'd like all of that gone.

 

[BC38]

I have a 2.5" 66 no dash that has a lot of sentimental value to me. I love the gun and still shoot in on occasion, but it's one I will keep forever and pass down to my son. But the gun has seen a lot of holster wear, various Flitz polishing over the years, and just normal cosmetic wear. I would like to send it back to Smith and Wesson (or somewhere else for that matter) where it can be refinished to look factory new again. Smith Performance Center offers three levels of refinishing, Bright Polish, Standard Polish, and Glass Bead. I'm not sure which of these I should go with. I'm almost certain I don't want the Bright Polish. I'm leaning toward Standard Polish or Glass Bead. I think I'd really like to return it to what it would have looked like new. What should I do?

I'm also trying to figure out what to do about a new set of grips also. It had Uncle Mikes rubber grips for many years, but I swapped them out for some Magna grips and a Tyler T-Grip adapter which is kinda cool looking. But I'm thinking I should tr to find a set of original combat grips. Just not sure where to start looking for these. I was at a gun show this weekend and couldn't find a single pair of K-frame RB combat grips in the whole show.

There is a decent set of RB wood grips for sale in the classifieds section here Small parts drop Colt/S&W

 

[tlawler]

Here is my 66 and yes I gave it the scotchbrite treatment, new red insert and it is wearing a vintage set of Guy Hogue stocks.

Nice work. That’s a good looking 66 snubbie!

 

[Vtgw938]

I appreciate the input. I really don't mind paying to have a high quality refinish done to the gun. I don't really have the time, and frankly likely wouldn't be happy with the result if I did it myself. Mine is a slightly more polished version of what yours looks like and has what'd I'd call very fine "spiderweb" scratches and swirls in the stainless. I'd like all of that gone.

Did S&W tell you one of those finishes would duplicate the original? The original finish would show very light "scratches", we often refer to it as the grain but of course it is not. They weren't polished, probably buffed with a very fine wire brush wheel or at least that is what the finish looks like.

 

[Hair Trigger]

The M66 originally had a Standard polish, meaning it was not shiny, but was smooth. A glass bead finish is more dull and is a more current style finish. The standard polish carried through at least to the dash-2. The only real changes in appearance is the stainless rear sight of the first year or so of production versus the black rear sight from that point on.

Stainless steel guns show wear differently than blued or nickel guns, and I think the normal cosmetic wear should be left as-is.

This is what the Standard Polish looks like, this is my M66-1, also a 2-1/2" snubby. Mine are the factory original walnut magna stocks.

 

[Cirrus]

There is a decent set of RB wood grips for sale in the classifieds section here Small parts drop Colt/S&W

Those are not combats. They are magnas that I already have.

 

[Cirrus]

The M66 originally had a Standard polish, meaning it was not shiny, but was smooth. A glass bead finish is more dull and is a more current style finish. The standard polish carried through at least to the dash-2. The only real changes in appearance is the stainless rear sight of the first year or so of production versus the black rear sight from that point on.

Stainless steel guns show wear differently than blued or nickel guns, and I think the normal cosmetic wear should be left as-is.

This is what the Standard Polish looks like, this is my M66-1, also a 2-1/2" snubby. Mine are the factory original walnut magna stocks.

Thank you for the info. That’s definitely helpful.

 

[BC38]

Those are not combats. They are magnas that I already have.

Gotcha - I misread you.

 

[Beemerguy53]

Cirrus, a while back I had S&W bead-blast my 3" Model 65. Here's the thread I started on it, with before and after photos in various posts.

I'm very pleased with the results...good luck to you.

My 3" Model 65-5...before and after...

 

[bobsguns]

Thank you for the info. That’s definitely helpful.

I would also take a look at Turnbull Restoration. Maybe cruise through their web site, see what your options are?

I don't know what your feelings are, but cerakoting is another good option. You're almost drowning in options, IMO.

My .o2

 

[cleger]

Bead-blasting might be thought of as somewhat permanent, meaning that if you were to choose either "bright" or "standard" polish, you could go from one to the other fairly easily, but you wouldn't be able to return from a bead-blasted finish without removing a fair amount of metal, and risk obliterating roll-marks, etc.

If your gun isn't terribly dented or gouged, do give some thought to doing a "standard polish" yourself, at the kitchen table. You can get good results in an hour with a screwdriver, a bit of tape, and a white Scotchbrite pad.

Pro-tip: when you're done, wipe everything off with acetone or lacquer thinner, and "passivate" the stainless parts of the gun in a bath of grocery store citric acid.

 

[Cirrus]

Bead-blasting might be thought of as somewhat permanent, meaning that if you were to choose either "bright" or "standard" polish, you could go from one to the other fairly easily, but you wouldn't be able to return from a bead-blasted finish without removing a fair amount of metal, and risk obliterating roll-marks, etc.

If your gun isn't terribly dented or gouged, do give some thought to doing a "standard polish" yourself, at the kitchen table. You can get good results in an hour with a screwdriver, a bit of tape, and a white Scotchbrite pad.

Pro-tip: when you're done, wipe everything off with acetone or lacquer thinner, and "passivate" the stainless parts of the gun in a bath of grocery store citric acid.

That’s a good point about being hard to come back from a bead blast finish. I definitely don’t want to do it myself though. I might try the standard polish option first.

 

[cleger]

That’s a good point about being hard to come back from a bead blast finish. I definitely don’t want to do it myself though. I might try the standard polish option first.

The nice thing about the factory refinish is you know they'll get it right, and they can address the existing bead-blasted areas on the top strap & barrel rib that would be difficult for you & I.

Remember though -- afterward, you can maintain (most of) your finish with a $2(?) white Scotchbrite pad!

 

[shawn mccarver]

S&W will do a great job. I much prefer the glass bead, but if you want it like it was when new, you want what they referred to as “satin.” They do not want you to send in your custom grips anyway, so remove the grips, send the gun, and find a nice set of K Frame, round butt PC Magnas while you await the return of your revolver.