What factory (pre-lock) 686 models had the unfluted cylinder?

[ColumbusJBR]

Hey gang, for no particular reason I have the itch for another 686, and am enamored w/ the ones that have an unfluted cylinder. Don’t know why, I just want one.

What I DON’T want is a modern one with the IL. In a perfect world I’d find a 6” or 5” older model with that feature. I just let one go by me on GB (a 6” 686-3 “hunter” model), as the bidding shot over $1K (no box, nothing). I’m looking to get one to replace my existing 6” 686-6. Just cuz.

So, does this knowledge base know what specific models I could search for that has those traits?

Thanks as always!

 

[Hawg Rider]

The Model 686 .357 Distinguished Combat Magnum was introduced in 1980, and the IL began in 2001-2002 with the 686-6. The only pre-lock versions with unfluted cylinders that I know of or could find in the SCSW 4th Ed. are the Classic Hunter (6", 1988), the Bill Davis National Match (5", 1989), the very rare PC 104288 (6", 1998, only 30 made), Model 686-5 Export International DX (6", 1999), PC104249 (6", 1989), PC 104252 (5", 1992), and some 6" Euro Hunters and other export models. Most of the 686 Plus versions with unfluted cylinders have shorter barrels (3", 4"). Personally, I don't let the IL bother me. I only have a few revolvers with the IL (642-2, 627-5, and 686-6 Plus) and haven't had any issues with them. You might consider paying the $40 for an IL plug kit (Tandem Kross, Original Precision, etc.) and fill the Hillary Hole if it bothers you. If you're just looking for an older 686 "jus cuz", then happy hunting- but you're probably going to pay $1K or more if you find one. Good luck.

 

[DR505]

They are nice revolvers. I have three unfluted...a 657-2 6.5", a 627-0 5.5", and a 686-3 6". I like them all.

 

[ColumbusJBR]

Thank you for the replies. Yes, there's nothing wrong with my 686-6. I've already "plugged the hole"; just had thoughts of purging all IL Smiths from my collection, but I'm now seeing that these unfluted pre-IL models are scarce - the one I was eyeing on GB was a -3 6" with nice Hogue hardwood grips. Bidding started at $550. I was out once it hit $1K, as I don't need it. I was just shocked at how it took off.

Maybe I'll just throw some new stocks on my -6 to doll it up and be happy; certainly the cheaper option.

Dumb question alert: If I were to find an unfluted cylinder for a .357 L frame, is it safe to assume that it would NOT be a simple "drop-in part"? I.E. would require fitting?

Thanks!

 

[AveragEd]

I have one of the 686-3 Classic Hunters. It wonders me why they would put all black sights on a "hunting" model instead of their more visible Red Ramp/White Outline package but go figure. I also have one of the Bill Davis 686-3 National Match revolvers; the Classic Hunters pop up for sale now and then; the National Match guns are pretty scarce. I believe there were 5,000 Classic Hunters made; the National Match guns are marked "1 of 500."

I find it odd that Smith & Wesson would fit the Classic Hunter with a Hogue MonoGrip. The box label shows "TS" in the stocks field but in the case of this model, that doesn't stand for Target Stock. I get why they didn't use MonoGrips with their own logo - they never had any made for square butts. I prefer real-deal Target Stocks so that's what my Classic Hunter wears. I have the Bill Davis grip for my NM but again, I prefer Checkered Targets.

Unfluted cylinders add some weight to the gun and I have read on here that the extra inertia accelerates wear on cylinder stops. FWIW...

Ed

 

[BLUEDOT37]

It "could be" a drop-in swap...

Dumb question alert: If I were to find an unfluted cylinder for a .357 L frame, is it safe to assume that it would NOT be a simple "drop-in part"? I.E. would require fitting?

I've done several cylinder swaps & most have not required any, if little tweaking, but it can be done relatively easy, with caveats, though it's not a guarantee.

First & foremost you need to get the same rev. level replacement cylinder for it.

Next to increase the odds, & limit extra work, you need to reuse the extractor star, rod & its related springs from the original revolver in the replacement cylinder (new cylinders usually just come with an "unfitted" extractor star).

This will keep the timing the same as the ratchets have already been cut to work with that revolver & this will allow you to swap back to the original cylinder later if you want.

With the new cylinder installed you need to check the cylinder's endshake. It should be about .001" of endshake.

If it's more than .002" you can add a bearing/shim to tighten it up. That's the most I've ever had to do with mine.

.

I removed the fluted Ss cylinder from my 5" bbl. 629-6 Classic & replace the Ti cylinder in my 329PD with it.
The 629-6 got a new unfluted cylinder.
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