Model 686 from 1983... Pre-Buy Inspection Wisdom

[swstetson]

S&W Sages out there - I'm getting interested in a Model 686, serial number ADC9210, which S&W tells me is from 1983(!). I have not seen it in person yet, but the shop owner made a comment about how nice the action is when he must have picked it up to tell me the price. That's a good sign, I suppose.
The selling price is $800, but he'll give me a 10% military discount (very nice of him).
Key Question: is there a reason to be concerned about this old a gun? It is pre Hillary Hole, which is nice, but... 1983?
Second Question: is there a way for me to detect clocking issues by inspection? Are there any smarts out there that can be passed on to me for when I go to check this pistol out? Thanks!

 

[lppd4]

1983? Great news. Look it over, does it have the M stamp in the yoke. No Hillary hole is also a bonus. Check the play in the cylinder side to side and from to back. Does it have a turn line? Faint or bold? Does the finish look good? The answer to these questions should give you a good start.

 

[ladder13]

Welcome to the forum.

L frame S&W handguns are pretty stout for their task.

The post above is a good way to eliminate most probable issues.

 

[Masterbuck54]

YouTube is your friend

Several good videos on how to inspect prior to buying.

Masterbuck54

 

[CH4]

Clocking issues? You mean timing issues?

The 686 is very robust, but with enough shooting it can develop endshake, pushoff, timing issues, etc.

Here's a good video that covers pre purchase inspection.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1_1n6u7gW8o&pp=ygUgUHVyY2hhc2UgaW5zcGVjdGlvbiBzJncgcmV2b2x2ZXI=

 

[Vtgw938]

See if the seller will remove the stocks so you can check for rust. If the action is too nice, the strain screw may be loosened as well. When you cock the action you should hear two clicks before the hammer locks back, putting the cylinder in proper position. You want the cylinder stop fulling engaged in the notch before the hammer is all the way back (on all six chambers).

Most important, ask the seller if it is ok to function test the revolver and especially if you think you need to dry fire it.

 

[swstetson]

Thank You!

You gents are awesome - thank you for the wisdom.

 

[LittleAugieMo]

Don't forget to ck for "push off"

 

[schutz5]

That appears to be a nice No Dash 686 !

Price is not bad if it is in good shape. 4" or 6 " ?? Factory Wood grips?

Good Luck !

 

[swstetson]

686 no dash - 6"

That appears to be a nice No Dash 686 !

Price is not bad if it is in good shape. 4" or 6 " ?? Factory Wood grips?

Good Luck !

Hey there - apparently rubber grip, which, frankly I'd prefer. And... 6", which I'm excited about!

 

[bobsguns]

The good news is the L-frame models are pretty close to being bulletproof. Unless someone has been constantly shooting Buffalo Bore hunting ammo out of it, they're hard to abuse.

There's already been enough pointers listed so I don't have any to add. Take a knowledgeable friend with you for a second pair of eyes if it helps.

These are super accurate guns, FYI. Shoot some .38spl wadcutters sometime, enjoy the gun's accuracy.

My .o2

 

[rwsmith]

Never fear...

My 686 is a 1980 no-dash model and it's a great gun with a great action and an even great trigger. SA ALMOST breaks like glass and double action is smooth as silk. I won't let anybody do any work on it because I think they could only mess it up. I got the M stamp done and it's not really necessary unless heavy loads push the primers into the firing pin.

 

[Sevens]

Hey there - apparently rubber grip, which, frankly I'd prefer. And... 6", which I'm excited about!

I too would rather shoot with a rubber grip on a 686, but we are here to assist you, so you oughta know:

that revolver was 100% shipped with goncalo alves target stocks, with speed loader cut out. They are handsome and they are valuable.

You should use this fact to argue that $800 price tag. It’s gonna be $100-$150 or more to find a pair of stocks worthy of making that gun proper. (Not that you need to, but facts just the same)

 

[minconrevo]

The 6" is less desirable to many, as opposed to the 4". I've only run into one 686 that was really messed up; that was a dash 5 that had horrible machining under the lockplate. That particular one should have been scrapped at the factory. Many other 686's, to include no dash, and dash 3's, have been excellent and still deliver the goods. I think that's typical of most all firing pin on the hammer 686's.

If you are buying the gun primarily as a shooter, then don't worry about the presence or absence of the original factory grips. Sure, play that into the price, but recognize you are likely to go with actually fits your hand when shooting the gun. Just looking pretty and feeling okay without actually firing isn't the ultimate. You need to shoot with the particular grips. I have a set of gorgeous Hogue tulipwood grips that are wonderful until the trigger is pulled; ouch! They don't fit me. The Miculek grips from his Bang website do the trick.

 

[schutz5]

So the moral of the story is to bring cash in denominations that allow you to negotiate!
Cash talks and the shop owner will listen!

 

[AveragEd]

If you will be having the gun shipped to you, make sure the seller offers a return policy. I once bought a used 686 (although this could happen to any model) that wouldn't cycle in double-action mode. I called the seller from my gunsmith's shop where the gun was shipped for the seller's approval to remove the side plate; we found the hammer sear had been worked on. Rather than take it back, the seller paid the gunsmith to repair it and it was fine after that.

Ed

 

[swstetson]

686 Grips - good info!

I too would rather shoot with a rubber grip on a 686, but we are here to assist you, so you oughta know:

that revolver was 100% shipped with goncalo alves target stocks, with speed loader cut out. They are handsome and they are valuable.

You should use this fact to argue that $800 price tag. It’s gonna be $100-$150 or more to find a pair of stocks worthy of making that gun proper. (Not that you need to, but facts just the same)

Fantastic info - thank you for sending it my way.

 

[swstetson]

Grip

The 6" is less desirable to many, as opposed to the 4". I've only run into one 686 that was really messed up; that was a dash 5 that had horrible machining under the lockplate. That particular one should have been scrapped at the factory. Many other 686's, to include no dash, and dash 3's, have been excellent and still deliver the goods. I think that's typical of most all firing pin on the hammer 686's.

If you are buying the gun primarily as a shooter, then don't worry about the presence or absence of the original factory grips. Sure, play that into the price, but recognize you are likely to go with actually fits your hand when shooting the gun. Just looking pretty and feeling okay without actually firing isn't the ultimate. You need to shoot with the particular grips. I have a set of gorgeous Hogue tulipwood grips that are wonderful until the trigger is pulled; ouch! They don't fit me. The Miculek grips from his Bang website do the trick.

Thanks for the tip on Miculek grips via the Bang website. I may hit this forum up for more "Grip Info" once I actually get to the shop and see what I'm dealing with.

 

[swstetson]

Dud!

If you will be having the gun shipped to you, make sure the seller offers a return policy. I once bought a used 686 (although this could happen to any model) that wouldn't cycle in double-action mode. I called the seller from my gunsmith's shop where the gun was shipped for the seller's approval to remove the side plate; we found the hammer sear had been worked on. Rather than take it back, the seller paid the gunsmith to repair it and it was fine after that.

Ed

Good advice - fortunately, this is from a local dealer. I'm glad your situation got remedied, though!

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

S&W Sages out there - I'm getting interested in a Model 686, serial number ADC9210, which S&W tells me is from 1983(!). I have not seen it in person yet, but the shop owner made a comment about how nice the action is when he must have picked it up to tell me the price. That's a good sign, I suppose.

It will interesting to know how much it was shot, the round count.

Back in 1983 I was shooting on our Pistol Team (actually Team Captain). So my Police Department bought a dozen (12) 686. First the one Rangemaster screwed up six of them trying to do a Action Job on them.

Usually Pachmyr grips are a good indication that the revolver was shot a lot. BTW, is the front sight a Red Ramp or Patridge Sight?