Model 686 from 1983... Pre-Buy Inspection Wisdom

[swstetson]

Pachmyr Grip

It will interesting to know how much it was shot, the round count.

Back in 1983 I was shooting on our Pistol Team (actually Team Captain). So my Police Department bought a dozen (12) 686. First the one Rangemaster screwed up six of them trying to do a Action Job on them.

Usually Pachmyr grips are a good indication that the revolver was shot a lot. BTW, is the front sight a Red Ramp or Patridge Sight?

Yessir, Looks like Pachmyr "Professional Gripper" grips were installed (apparently slightly smaller than regular Gripper grips, and with an open backstrap). And it has Patridge Sights... I want to shift to something better suited for low light, if you have any recommendations.
I couldn't arrive at a shot count, but I was pretty pleased with the condition. It's definitely been shot, but the Barrel to Cylinder Gap was at .008 if I measured it correctly. The action was excellent, very smooth. Probably another sign of a fair number of rounds through it...

 

[swstetson]

Pre-Buy Inspection

Thanks to the collective wisdom here, and from some great YouTube videos (great advice to look there...).

To close out this thread, here's what I came up with and just did on my pre-buy of a beautiful, 1983 Model 686 - no dash, 6" barrel. OK, it needs some polishing, but mechanically it's a beauty in this novice's eyes.

Inspection Routine, after clearing safe:

General visual
2. Bulge in barrel (possible squib)
3. Rust at edge of grip?
4. Side screws damaged? Could indicate rookie opening it up...
5. Rear site screws extreme position - excessive windage?

Release Cylinder
1. Find M STAMP on crane
2. Inspect crane for bending (due to slap close of cylinder)
3. Inspect cylinders for marring
4. Ejector Rod inspection
1. Run out - wobble while rotating
2. Physical - knurl nut OK? Evidence of having been clamped?
3. Rod operation - not sticking
4. Inspect ejector star for wear
5. Spin cylinder - smooth?
6. Inspect cylinder stop notches for marring/clean edges
7. Depress cylinder bolt a few times for op check
8. Inspect Barrel / rifling grooves
9. Inspect barrel forcing cone (where it meets cylinder) and top strap above cone for cracking


Close Cylinder carefully… nice fit? Test cylinder release button for button reset several times

Measure Barrel-to-Cylinder Gap
1. .004-.008 is good. .012 is within tolerance per S&W
2. Check end-play: excessive fore and aft movement?

Check Lock Up:
1. pull trigger all the way back TIGHT (using double action)
2. Wiggle cylinder rotationally. Less movement the better
3. Repeat for each cylinder

Single Action Timing
1. Slowly pull trigger back; watch that the cylinder bolt snaps up about half-way through pull.
2. Complete hammer pull - cylinder block locks into cylinder notch
3. Release hammer with trigger
4. Repeat for each chamber
5. Check for hammer sway - should give a little after the single action stop.
6. Check for hammer "push off"

Double Action Timing
1. Pull trigger all the way back
2. Watch for clean cylinder bolt action- should lock up BEFORE hammer release
3. Listen for sear click from internals on a clean pull - should be absent. 2 Cylinder clicks are fine
* Stop unlocks then snaps against cylinder....this is the turn line
* Cylinder snapping into the cylinder notch....lock up

 

[H Richard]

This one is an s/n AAFXXXX shipped 6/82. (Photo is maybe 10-15 yrs ago). Only time needed work done was the recall, which only took a week to return. It has had probably 20,000+ 38 Special, and maybe 1500 .357's through it. It's as solid as the day I bought it. Had the Hogue grips fitted to the gun by Sr. Mr Hogue, he had brought his working tailor to the Masters International Shooting Championship in 1987, he personally did a little sanding to make the fit perfectly flush.



Used this for PPC shooting mostly as well as general plinkin g and some small game hunting. With the right load will clover-leaf the grouops at 25 yards (from a rest). Plan on keeping it for a long time, you won't wear it out.