As a complete aside to all this stuff, if/when those of you who own one of these beasts decide you absolutely, positively must see how Mr. King and company put it together----here's how to take it apart:
I'd read that the rib is "full floating", and "under tension". I took "full floating" to mean it's attached at the front and rear (only)----------and "under tension" most certainly meant one of those attachment points is also providing the tension ----------and it for damn sure wasn't those two pins up front (although they obviously play a part---call 'em an anchor.) That left the elevation adjusting screw was doing double duty----VERY SNEAKY!!
Step One: Remove the screw.
That's about the end of the process! The tension's gone. The pins up front will push right out---and off comes the rib assembly.
Now, aside from the curiosity that killed the cat, why mess with it in the first place? The VERY first thing I noticed---even before I put the rib down, was everywhere King's milling machine had had its way with the gun was left "in the white" (!!)---which was startling to say the least---but there was not one spec of rust!
Now my gun had clearly spent its entire life in a sock drawer, and maybe that had to do with no rust, but discretion being the better part of valor, it might be worth your while to have a look at yours----just for the hell of it!
My best guess is the King folks treated the exposed "in the white" metal with wax (or hopefully with something better), but Risk Management 101 Remedial tells us the best way to manage risk is to avoid it in the first place!
So much for that! Here's how to put it back together: Put the front pin in place. Install the elevation adjusting screw, and crank it down to the point where the remaining pin hole is clear----right straight through such that you can push the pin right in---and then back the screw out to where all it does is change the elevation setting. You're back to "under tension" now.
A cautionary note: This business about backing the screw out to where all it does is change the elevation is a SWAG on my part----never mind it makes sense (on the one hand)----------and it's the only game in town (on the other hand)! (I didn't use/shoot the guns in my collection, so I can't say for sure and certain that's the drill.) EDITED TO ADD: If you pay attention to what's happening when you remove the screw (like I didn't), you just might learn exactly where that screw is supposed to be when you're done with lessening tension, and back to where the screw is changing elevation----another SWAG that at least makes sense.
Another cautionary note: If you're like me, and take these things all apart for their welcome bath, know that the King windage spring looks just like the S&W cylinder stop spring---and know that the S&W spring will work in the King sights---but the King spring won't work for the cylinder stop. It fits fine, it just doesn't do anything after it fits fine---one of those little "Live and Learn" deals!
Ralph Tremaine
Given a little thought, I'm inclined to think the best control of screw "placement" is to count the turns from the starting point (loosening it) to the point where the tension is removed from the pins---and they'll move. That smacks of "fun for the feeble minded" on the one hand, but it ensures the final position is as was the starting position (which may or may not be exactly right, but it's the best control that comes to mind right off).
I'd read that the rib is "full floating", and "under tension". I took "full floating" to mean it's attached at the front and rear (only)----------and "under tension" most certainly meant one of those attachment points is also providing the tension ----------and it for damn sure wasn't those two pins up front (although they obviously play a part---call 'em an anchor.) That left the elevation adjusting screw was doing double duty----VERY SNEAKY!!
Step One: Remove the screw.
That's about the end of the process! The tension's gone. The pins up front will push right out---and off comes the rib assembly.
Now, aside from the curiosity that killed the cat, why mess with it in the first place? The VERY first thing I noticed---even before I put the rib down, was everywhere King's milling machine had had its way with the gun was left "in the white" (!!)---which was startling to say the least---but there was not one spec of rust!
Now my gun had clearly spent its entire life in a sock drawer, and maybe that had to do with no rust, but discretion being the better part of valor, it might be worth your while to have a look at yours----just for the hell of it!
My best guess is the King folks treated the exposed "in the white" metal with wax (or hopefully with something better), but Risk Management 101 Remedial tells us the best way to manage risk is to avoid it in the first place!
So much for that! Here's how to put it back together: Put the front pin in place. Install the elevation adjusting screw, and crank it down to the point where the remaining pin hole is clear----right straight through such that you can push the pin right in---and then back the screw out to where all it does is change the elevation setting. You're back to "under tension" now.
A cautionary note: This business about backing the screw out to where all it does is change the elevation is a SWAG on my part----never mind it makes sense (on the one hand)----------and it's the only game in town (on the other hand)! (I didn't use/shoot the guns in my collection, so I can't say for sure and certain that's the drill.) EDITED TO ADD: If you pay attention to what's happening when you remove the screw (like I didn't), you just might learn exactly where that screw is supposed to be when you're done with lessening tension, and back to where the screw is changing elevation----another SWAG that at least makes sense.
Another cautionary note: If you're like me, and take these things all apart for their welcome bath, know that the King windage spring looks just like the S&W cylinder stop spring---and know that the S&W spring will work in the King sights---but the King spring won't work for the cylinder stop. It fits fine, it just doesn't do anything after it fits fine---one of those little "Live and Learn" deals!
Ralph Tremaine
Given a little thought, I'm inclined to think the best control of screw "placement" is to count the turns from the starting point (loosening it) to the point where the tension is removed from the pins---and they'll move. That smacks of "fun for the feeble minded" on the one hand, but it ensures the final position is as was the starting position (which may or may not be exactly right, but it's the best control that comes to mind right off).
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