19-9 Carry Comp Finish Issue

[Screwball]

So I’ve had a 3” Carry Comp for a little bit. Got it to carry off duty during the winter, but took some time to set the gun up the way I wanted it. Fixed D&L rear sight. Hogue round butt conversion G10 grips. And plugged the lock.

Anyways, I finally got around to shooting (Buffalo Bore 180 grain XTP) and was going to carry it today for a few errands prior to work. Pulled it out last night and noticed this…

Pulled the grips and confirmed there is no rust on the rest of the gun. What it looks like to me, there was no finish on that little section between the cylinder recoil shield and the edge of the side plate. Didn’t notice it until yesterday. Guess the P7M8 will stay in the holster for the foreseeable future.

Will contact S&W on 1/2, since they are closed thru then. Hopefully it gets resolved, as I really do like the gun. One thing to cause an issue with finish myself… but another to have the gun not done right from the factory. Sad thing was I was considering getting that 586 L-Comp… really second thinking that one until this is figured out.

 

[Richard Simmons]

Have you tried cleaning it? I don’t believe that’s rust. Perhaps some left over preservative?

 

[Screwball]

Have you tried cleaning it? I don’t believe that’s rust. Perhaps some left over preservative?

Yep… solvent and then Slip2000. Q-tip with oil kept coming back brown.

Pictures were after that, sorry I didn’t mention it.

 

[Hapworth]

Odd spot for there to be no finish -- the gun is blued and the whole frame gets dunked.

I wonder if the bluing solution wasn't;t entirely washed clean and started to form rust again; that it's at the seam between the frame and the sideplate makes me wonder what might be going on inside.

If you know how to correctly make a sideplate off, I'd have a look.

That said, unless a real mess is found, I wouldn't fuss with sending it back over this. Since this is to be a carry gun with an already vulnerable finish, I'd pull it apart, scrub clean, lube it and after it's proven at the range go straight to carrying it.

 

[Shoebox1.1]

I almost bought a new L comp or 19cc 2.5. They didn’t work out but got the 2.5 686+ in Stainless will be better for my daily rough and tumble carry

 

[Screwball]

If you know how to correctly make a sideplate off, I'd have a look.

Was hard to get a good shot of that area, but appears to be only the exterior.

Either way, it will be going back to S&W. For a $1,200 revolver… should not have finish issues. Very happy with the revolver otherwise, but not something I want to have to worry about.

Only good thing is that it is on the outboard side. My LCP needed to be plated due to rust that formed due to sweat, as mine is borderline battery acid.

 

[stansdds]

Only good thing is that it is on the outboard side. My LCP needed to be plated due to rust that formed due to sweat, as mine is borderline battery acid.

Have you considered going to stainless steel carry revolvers? Stainless far more resistant to near battery acid level ph sweat. Not impervious to, but more resistant to corrosion.

 

[steelslaver]

$20 says if you wiped it down with something like Kroil or eds red that "rust" would disappear. In fact ay light oil would do it

 

[ColumbusJBR]

Have you considered going to stainless steel carry revolvers? Stainless far more resistant to near battery acid level ph sweat. Not impervious to, but more resistant to corrosion.

I’m still waiting for them to release a Model 66 Carry Comp. I may be waiting a while…

 

[Screwball]

Have you considered going to stainless steel carry revolvers? Stainless far more resistant to near battery acid level ph sweat. Not impervious to, but more resistant to corrosion.

Didn’t see a stainless new production K-frame like the Carry Comp… beefed up frame/barrel/forcing cone when compared to the older models. If they did one, I’d definitely consider it.

I try to wipe down my carry gun one each week or two, depending on the climate. Northern ME, it gets cold, but damp. And then add in sweat from being too warm.

My other carry revolver is a 9mm 642-1 that I had redone in NP3 Plus. Unfortunately, I’m not that up on who is doing NP3 now. I could send it to CCR, who has done my LCPs (original and Max). But I rather have it squared by S&W, see how it handles with carry… then make a decision from there.

My P7M8 is a newer production off a German frame by P7Pro. Completely nitrided, so no issues there.

If I could find someone that nitrides, that wouldn’t be too bad of an option.

 

[Screwball]

$20 says if you wiped it down with something like Kroil or eds red that "rust" would disappear. In fact ay light oil would do it

So, you forwarding me $20? Being it was already mentioned that I tried solvent and oil… [emoji6]

 

[Hapworth]

Was hard to get a good shot of that area, but appears to be only the exterior.

Either way, it will be going back to S&W. For a $1,200 revolver… should not have finish issues. Very happy with the revolver otherwise, but not something I want to have to worry about.

Only good thing is that it is on the outboard side. My LCP needed to be plated due to rust that formed due to sweat, as mine is borderline battery acid.

Glad it's just that spot.

Hope your experience with S&W is worth it. And if your sweat is that tough on finishes and you carry this gun, you'll find yourself here again. Good luck.

 

[Beju]

You're far from the only one to have rust on a Ruger LCP. That black oxide finish just isn't as rust resistant as nitriding. I did once see a guy with rust on an old Tenifer finish Gen 3 Glock. Now thatguy had some seriously corrosive sweat.

If you're willing to compromise on being comped (or send it off to get that done), the current production Model 66 Combat Magnum (SKU 10061) also has a beefed up forcing cone compared to older K-frames.

Wright Armory is offering an NT7+ coating as a replacement for NP3. Not sure how they compare.

I'd like to see S&W replace the current bluing with a DLC like Glock does on the Gen 5 pistols. Purists would probably complain, but presumably, the old, more chemical resistant, bluing is gone forever due to environmental regs.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

So I’ve had a 3” Carry Comp for a little bit. Got it to carry off duty during the winter ...

What do you carry "on duty"?

My advice for most cops is carry a similar firearm 24/7 365.

 

[steelslaver]

So, you forwarding me $20? Being it was already mentioned that I tried solvent and oil… [emoji6]

First of all I never said solvent and oil. I said Kroil or Eds Red.
If that is actually light rust it will become blue if you actually treat it correctly. You must not have put much effort into wiping that haze off. Blue and rust are both iron oxide. You can strip the finish completely off a gun, let it lightly rust, wipe it off with fine steel wool. let it lightly rust again wipe it repeat say 10 times and then boil it in water for 30 minutes and have a great blue job.

 

[Screwball]

What do you carry "on duty"?

My advice for most cops is carry a similar firearm 24/7 365.

I carry a Glock 19 Gen 5.

I appreciate your advice, but will respectfully not follow it…

First of all I never said solvent and oil.

Reread the last part of that quote… your words, not mine.

That being pointed out, I appreciate the instructions you posted. However, S&W will be the one to handle it. If they buy a $1,200 revolver from me, then I’d be keen to do all that.

 

[steelslaver]

I find it hard to believe rubbing it with a rag and light oil didn't remove it if it is actually rust. I wasn't suggesting you do a rust blue job. Just pointing out that light red rust is easily converted to blue rust.

 

[Hapworth]

...That being pointed out, I appreciate the instructions you posted. However, S&W will be the one to handle it. If they buy a $1,200 revolver from me, then I’d be keen to do all that.

You've hit that note a few times now so I'm circling back.

Seems above all else it's the principle of it for you, which I get, but suggest you don't let the principle be the enemy of the practical here: you say the gun's otherwise square, it's a really minor issue, and steelslaver has offered a smart suggestion for correcting it.

Sending it back for a re-blue guarantees shipping and waiting hassle for you, and risks buying trouble needlessly with the unknowns of what gun you'll get back -- all for a slight finish issue that's going to be in far worse shape than now after just a couple months of range sessions and carry.

If you think you're holding S&W to the fire, or teaching them a lesson, you're not. But you are making more work for yourself.

If it's to be a fighting gun, get to that.

Just the voice of experience. Best of luck.

 

[moonsterman]

Does this effect you shooting it? If the gun is going 2b on this weeks episode of Miami vice then yes I want to look perfect , if your a real cop then its more like Barney Miller .....who cares???

 

[Screwball]

Seems above all else it's the principle of it for you, which I get, but suggest you don't let the principle be the enemy of the practical here: you say the gun's otherwise square, it's a really minor issue, and steelslaver has offered a smart suggestion for correcting it.

Sending it back for a re-blue guarantees shipping and waiting hassle for you, and risks buying trouble needlessly with the unknowns of what gun you'll get back -- all for a slight finish issue that's going to be in far worse shape than now after just a couple months of range sessions and carry.

If you think you're holding S&W to the fire, or teaching them a lesson, you're not. But you are making more work for yourself.

If it's to be a fighting gun, get to that.

I will not lie, it definitely is the principle of it. I also have zero issue with cosmetic issues, considering it’s me that caused it. With the trainings I’ve been in, both in and outside of work, my gun and weapon light have some mileage on them (used, not really abused). But if the Streamlight came out of the box with some sort of defect… I’d pull one off another gun and send it back for replacement. Similar view, at least in my eyes.

That being said, I really don’t consider it a hassle to ship it out. It would be awesome if they allowed me to drop it off at the Houlton factory (literally 2 minutes from work, 15 from home)… but doubt that. Still, FedEx and UPS pick up regularly at work. UPS, can have redirected to work. FedEx… can have sent to a local pickup box. Shipping up this way stinks, but zero issue sending a gun for warranty work.

And for the wait… what’s a few weeks/months with something I plan on owning for life? This is actually my first .357 Magnum in almost 3 decades and it isn’t something that I need right now. Have the P7M8… if I fly, have to carry the duty gun. I do have other options, and still… if work is done, likely going to hold off until the spring to confirm POI at the range and not freeze outside.

I do not feel that this will change S&W. But it will make me feel better about the product I purchased from them that has a flaw. I’m leaning towards picking up a .357 lever gun, so I can use my suppressor with .38s. I’m also looking at that 586 L-Comp. S&W doesn’t care whether or not I continue to purchase from them… but how it’s handled will be the deciding factor on if I get a S&W 1854 or a Marlin 1894. The L-Comp… I’d probably just buy something other than a revolver instead (complete “just because” purchase). That isn’t an ultimatum, again because they likely couldn’t care less about me as a single customer, but it definitely would decide a few of my future purchases.

This thread wasn’t to get torches up against S&W. Mainly, it was A) to show a flaw I noticed and B) vent. I’m the type that I do like discussing guns and have zero issue with the recommendations/chat… but between work and other projects (I’m finishing up a .40 AR pistol build), it really isn’t something I plan on dealing with it.

I will reach out to them tomorrow when they open back up and see what they say.

it’s more like Barney Miller .....who cares???

Not way before my time… but before my time. [emoji6]