Reduced 357 Loads.

[Sal1950]

I'm 75, very arthritic and looking to load very lite recoiling ammo. I much prefer to use 357 brass and have a lot of both 158g real Jacketed Soft Points and also Plated FPs in stock. I also have quite a bit of Hodgdon Universal and HP38 on the shelf.
I've been looking to some charts for Cowboy Action loads but they all only refer to lead swc bullets. I wonder if some friends here could give me a few ideas on getting some of these numbers transposed to the bullets I now have for sub 900fps loads?
TIA, Sal

 

[venomballistics]

Your plated flats will more or less directly translate to the lead data provided

 

[BrBa]

I bet if you start at around 4.2 gr HP38 with either bullet you'll be in the neighborhood of 750-800 fps. Hodgdon's website lists that same load data for the 158 gr LSWC using a 10" test barrel.

 

[stansdds]

Plated bullets will behave much like cast lead, but true jacketed bullets will produce more friction in the barrel. In my experience, duplicating 38 Special loads in .357 Magnum brass is pretty easy to accomplish by adding anywhere from 0.2 to 0.5 grains of powder to any given 38 Special recipe.

 

[gwpercle]

Your plated flats will more or less directly translate to the lead data provided

And let me add ...
Cast lead , plated and coated bullets all use the same loading data ... and being softer than a jacketed bullet are easier to get moving down the barrel ... thus giving the lightest felt recoil .

If you are looking for the lightest recoiling loads ...
Load Lead , Plated or Coated bullets .
The softer lead , plated and coated bullets produce the lightest felt recoil !
Look at 38 Special +P Loads and assemble them in 357 magnum brass ... this is not a dangerous thing to do ... the larger case is safe to use ... you may need to add 1/10th gr. powder to match the velocity with the longer case ... I call these 357 Lites !
Gary

 

[rwsmith]

Fortunately your problem is very easy to solve and I agree with what's been said here, except I have experimented with reduced pistol and rifle loads and don't think that compensating for the 'extra' space in a .357 vs .38 case is a problem considering how low I've gone. You don't say what powder you are using so this isn't solid advice, but I'd just reduce the loads in increments until you get what you want. The only thing to look out for a sticking a bullet in the barrel, but I think <900 fps is a very reasonable target and not even close to that possibility.

BTW: I'm getting to where I don't enjoy shooting full bore loads quite as much as I used to.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

I bet if you start at around 4.2 gr HP38 with either bullet you'll be in the neighborhood of 750-800 fps. Hodgdon's website lists that same load data for the 158 gr LSWC using a 10" test barrel.

That is what I did for a light 357 Magnum load. I used W231 which is similar to HP38.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

I'm 75, very arthritic and looking to load very lite recoiling ammo.

The bad news I got is my Rheumatoid Arthritis is making reloading very difficult too.

I knew it was coming so I reloaded everything I had and stockpile it. I still plan on reloading 44 Special when needed.

 

[venomballistics]

Loads aside, one of the most effective means I have of reducing recoil from the 357 is to fire it from a lever action rifle.
This tames the fire breathing dragon down to a fine thunder kitten

 

[Jimbo41]

I was developing a lite 357 load for a suppressed rifle just last week.
Did stick a few in the barrel, but that wasn’t as unnerving as sticking one in a suppressor. These were coming out sporadically at 200-400fps, and I really shouldn’t have had the can on for testing.

 

[rwsmith]

I was developing a lite 357 load for a suppressed rifle just last week.
Did stick a few in the barrel, but that wasn’t as unnerving as sticking one in a suppressor. These were coming out sporadically at 200-400fps, and I really shouldn’t have had the can on for testing.
View attachment 775502View attachment 775503

Oh YOW!

 

[USSR]

That is what I did for a light 357 Magnum load. I used W231 which is similar to HP38.

More than similar, it's the same powder with a different label on the cannister.

 

[Forrest r]

Looking for and using 38spl p+ data for low pressure 357mag loads is always a good safe place to start. From there loads can be adjusted up or down.

 

[stansdds]

I was developing a lite 357 load for a suppressed rifle just last week.
Did stick a few in the barrel, but that wasn’t as unnerving as sticking one in a suppressor. These were coming out sporadically at 200-400fps, and I really shouldn’t have had the can on for testing.
View attachment 775502View attachment 775503

Yikes! 200 to 400 fps is waaaaaaaay too slow.

 

[Yendor357]

You can read books and charts, powder burns rates until the cows come home. But you’ll never know what’s going on until you get a chronograph. $600 for a Garmin is a bargain. Several times, I have gotten results so far off of what some printed data said, the printed data was next to worthless except for safe starting charge.

I wouldn’t shoot jacketed bullets in a reduced load for fear of getting one stuck in the barrel. Another good thing about the Garmin is that if you do get one stuck in the barrel, it won’t generate a reading, thus warning you. I’d order some good old fashioned cast/lubed bullets. Coated and plated may be all the rage, but I’ll stick to tried and true.

I shoot 5.4 grains of 231 under a commercial cast 158. That’s good for 975 in my 3 inch Python, and 1000 fps in my 4 inch 686. ES and SD are both low. Very accurate. I’m pretty sure you could slow that load down a bit. But I like it as is.

Be extra careful to not double charge with those fast burning powders. Consider shooting a 22. They’re just as much fun with no fuss.

 

[Sal1950]

You don't say what powder you are using so this isn't solid advice, but I'd just reduce the loads in increments until you get what you want.

I much prefer to use 357 brass and have a lot of both 158g real Jacketed Soft Points and also Plated FPs in stock. I also have quite a bit of Hodgdon Universal and HP38 on the shelf.

^ Yep I did.
Tanks for the input anyway.

The bad news I got is my Rheumatoid Arthritis is making reloading very difficult too.

Have you tried one of those fancy roller handles?
Just a thought, I'm still using the stock ball handle that came with my Dillon 450 back in the 1980s and for the last 40 years haven't found the need to change?

 

[Sal1950]

You can read books and charts, powder burns rates until the cows come home. But you’ll never know what’s going on until you get a chronograph. $600 for a Garmin is a bargain. Several times, I have gotten results so far off of what some printed data said, the printed data was next to worthless except for safe starting charge.

I've got a older Shooting Chrony which I may bring out but didn't really intend on going "stuck bullet" low, something in the lower 900s should do well I guess.

Be extra careful to not double charge with those fast burning powders.

I always use a RCBS Lockout die in station 3.

Consider shooting a 22. They’re just as much fun with no fuss.

And let my beloved 357 DA revolvers become safe queens?
Sad enough that's what's happened to my other big bore magnums.
My poor S&W 460V

 

[Sal1950]

Thanks to everyone for their contributions so far!
I may switch over to the plated bullets soon but right now I have 1000 Zero 158 JSP on the shelf I'd love to load up.
I'm thinking 5.0 - 5.5g of HP38 should get me in the 900fps range and be a non-sticking safe load?
What do you guys think?
TIA Sal

 

[Jimbo41]

I think that’ll work. I’ve not found w231 to be especially position sensitive, but will check it when I have time. I have a bunch of those same bullets.

4.0gr of titegroup was the load that I was having trouble with.

 

[sniper]

I was developing a lite 357 load for a suppressed rifle just last week.
Did stick a few in the barrel, but that wasn’t as unnerving as sticking one in a suppressor. These were coming out sporadically at 200-400fps, and I really shouldn’t have had the can on for testing.
View attachment 775502View attachment 775503

Any damage to the baffles?