617-7 Mountain Gun arrived

[SLT223]

Rather disappointed that they dropped the S&W medallions in the stocks but I guess it helps reduce the factory cost to produce the revolver by a few dollars.

To be honest, I’m not overly impressed with the “Bear Hug Grips” I. Terms of finish and size. On the TGW site they retail for $249.99. I’d sooner buy a set of Culina’s at that level. The N frame bear hugs are a good size for my hands. K and L’s are too skinny for me.

 

[DRankin]

Another big question...... Real honest to God cut rifling or ECM?

 

[SLT223]

Looks like broach cut. Nice sharp edges. If it is EDM, it looks different than previous iterations with softer edges.

 

[cowboy94916]

Looks really great. How long from placing your order till arrival?

 

[DRankin]

Cut rifling is an important feature to me. Next I will wait and see if someone actually did the homework and put a properly regulated set of sights of it. Let us know.

I guess my distrust for 21st century S&W products is evident.

 

[SLT223]

Shot all three today. 1st place goes to 629. 617 and 686 were equally, predictably, annoying to me bc the grips are too small. That's getting addressed immediately. They all did what they are supposed to do. All 44 and 357 ammo was familiar handloads; 7.0 231 / 200gr LRN, 5.5gr Unique / 158 SWC. The 617 got a box CCI 40gr 710 Quiet and a box of CCI 42gr standard. There were some FTF in double action. Same as with my 18-3 and 17-5. Zero FTF's in single action. Zero extraction problems with either ammo.

 

[SLT223]

Cut rifling is an important feature to me. Next I will wait and see if someone actually did the homework and put a properly regulated set of sights of it. Let us know.

I guess my distrust for 21st century S&W products is evident.

I see non-EDM rifling when I look down the bore. I'm comparing that to a 2004/5ish 629-6 with obvious EDM rifling. All three MG's delivered with rear sights bottomed out. I had to adjust elevation up for my less than warp speed loads. The windage blades were all centered and did not require adjustment. The 617 was dead nuts out of the box. I think I want more main spring in that one, though.

 

[SLT223]

Looks really great. How long from placing your order till arrival?

Somehow it was less than a week for the 617. Ordered the 629 and 686 in January. 629 came in March. 686 landed early April.

 

[dnater]

If they have no relationship with Lipsey's, they may not get them for a while.

I had my Lipsey's dealer order me a 686 Mountain Gun when they were first announced in January. It was delivered yesterday. Hopefully my order for a 617 MG will be delivered quicker.

 

[seldon14]

Somehow it was less than a week for the 617. Ordered the 629 and 686 in January. 629 came in March. 686 landed early April.

They may have learned from the 686 and 629 demand, and had more units ready to go, or may be less demand for the 617, or maybe both.

 

[DRankin]

There were some FTF in double action. Same as with my 18-3 and 17-5. Zero FTF's in single action. Zero extraction problems with either ammo.

My experience is that most S&W revolvers are shipped bone dry. And most have burrs on the internal parts that slow the hammer speed enough to hamper function. Older guns like your 17 and 18 can be dry too, or worse, have congealed/hardened oils slowing things down. I use good old rubbing alcohol on the internals and a toothbrush plus compressed air to remove the old stuff before re-oiling

If you have not done it already, take off the side plate and look for an arc inscribed by hammer burrs on the side plate or under the hammer on the frame. The burrs are easy to clean up with a fine india stone.

Then give it a good dose of a full synthetic gun oil like Slip 2000 and let it saturate at least overnight.

Since this is a K frame, check if the leaf spring adjust screw is bottomed out. If there is room to screw it down a bit, do that before you go shopping for new leaf springs.

 

[SLT223]

My experience is that most S&W revolvers are shipped bone dry. And most have burrs on the internal parts that slow the hammer speed enough to hamper function. Older guns like your 17 and 18 can be dry too, or worse, have congealed/hardened oils slowing things down. I use good old rubbing alcohol on the internals and a toothbrush plus compressed air to remove the old stuff before re-oiling

If you have not done it already, take off the side plate and look for an arc inscribed by hammer burrs on the side plate or under the hammer on the frame. The burrs are easy to clean up with a fine india stone.

Then give it a good dose of a full synthetic gun oil like Slip 2000 and let it saturate at least overnight.

Since this is a K frame, check if the leaf spring adjust screw is bottomed out. If there is room to screw it down a bit, do that before you go shopping for new leaf springs.

I don't really consider a gun mine until I strip, clean, and lubricate it myself. Shockingly, there were signs of lubrication on the hammer, trigger, and rebound slide. First I've seen in a new Smith ever, I think. Main screw is bottomed out, and the main spring curvature looks normal. I lubed it up and threw it back together. No noticeable change. We will see next weekend when I try again. Probably just need to cycle the action another 500x.

Before cleaning and adding lube

Little closer

 

[wproct]

The action looks nice enough, is it reasonably smooth?

 

[SLT223]

The action looks nice enough, is it reasonably smooth?

It's perfectly smooth. Just didn't want to perform 100% ignition in double action. Single was 100%. As stated above, I'm sure the action just needs a little mileage.

 

[nyeti]

Rather disappointed that they dropped the S&W medallions in the stocks but I guess it helps reduce the factory cost to produce the revolver by a few dollars.

Smith is not making the stocks. The stocks are very high end custom stocks from Tyler Gun Works that are basically modern Bear Hugs. I would rather have a plain great set of $250 stocks than garbage ones with emblems.

 

[nyeti]

So far, it is a winner.