Stocks.. refinishing…

[Model29-26.5]

Preserving American history is a tough job, but this English guy is all over it!

I can’t really pretend to know what I’m doing, but I’ve done this before with pretty satisfactory results…
However, would love to learn from a pro…

 

[Bald1]

Looks like you’re doing right. I use Formsby furniture refinisher and 0000 steel wool. A soft bristle tooth brush for checkering. I also let them dry outdoors. After sanding any imperfections I hit them with several coats of Tru-Oil or linseed oil. Funny how you can repeat process exactly yet some turn out better than others.

 

[LVSteve]

Phew! For a second I thought I was about to see some milsurp rifle sanded and TruOiled to within an inch of its life, or RUINED as we say in milsurp circles.

 

[Hawg Rider]

Looks like you're doing OK! I typically strip off the finish with an eco-friendly ("green") product like Citristrip, GreenEZ, or SmartStrip. 0000 steel wool and an old toothbrush to clean it up, a quick water rinse, and air dry. A little sanding if required, and then I usually finish with Formby's Tung Oil Finish (Low Gloss) because I prefer a hand rubbed oil matte finish to a high gloss finish.

 

[Model29-26.5]

Looks like you're doing OK! I typically strip off the finish with an eco-friendly ("green") product like Citristrip, GreenEZ, or SmartStrip. 0000 steel wool and an old toothbrush to clean it up, a quick water rinse, and air dry. A little sanding if required, and then I usually finish with Formby's Tung Oil Finish (Low Gloss) because I prefer a hand rubbed oil matte finish to a high gloss finish.

What did Smith use in the 70’s?
I’m trying different things.
Actually polishing down the wood and finishing with 3000 grit comes up nicely but would take a good while to get into the cuts to do a good job.

 

[H Richard]

I use the Tru Oil, and usually 4-5 coats. When last coat is fully dry (I let dry 7 days), I rub down with Mothers Mag Wheel polish. I used to use Rotten stone slurry, the Mothers is much easier and less messy and gives me a nice satin sheen, not glossy.

 

[Model29-26.5]

I use the Tru Oil, and usually 4-5 coats. When last coat is fully dry (I let dry 7 days), I rub down with Mothers Mag Wheel polish. I used to use Rotten stone slurry, the Mothers is much easier and less messy and gives me a nice satin sheen, not glossy.

That sounds like a great method

 

[bananaman]

On smooth grips/ stocks, I use wet/dry sandpaper with water. Clean without the steel wool dirt. Used to use Tru Oil, but now use semi, or gloss spray lacquer. Wet sand and repeat until desired results are achieved. Not good for checkered stocks. Bob

 

[Vtgw938]

What did Smith use in the 70’s?
I’m trying different things.
Actually polishing down the wood and finishing with 3000 grit comes up nicely but would take a good while to get into the cuts to do a good job.

S&W used lacquer in the 1970's. I like an oil finish but I want my stocks to look original so lacquer it is. Once the finish has been removed with acetone it shouldn't /doesn't need to take long to get the wood prepped for finish. The biggest thing is to remove all finish completely, especially in the checkering and border and from the medallions and hardware. You don't want dark lines in and around the checkering. I spend way more time getting all the finish out of the wood than I do working the wood. Take a look at some of your nicer original stocks, they aren't finished like 44Magget's or Culina's.

 

[oneeyedpete]

Tru-Oil is very easy to use and looks good, but it is a very soft finish. Lacquer is much more durable, and you can get it in matte, satin and gloss. I remove the old lacquer finish with lacquer thinner. I tape the checkering with blue painter's tape and sand the wood as little as possible to get a good smooth finish. I seal the wood with a coat of bullseye shellac. I then spray the wood with Watco spray lacquer in 3 light coats. Let dry for at least 3 hours and repeat if necessary. Another benefit of lacquer is that it can be touched up without witness lines.

 

[Model29-26.5]

Tru-Oil is very easy to use and looks good, but it is a very soft finish. Lacquer is much more durable, and you can get it in matte, satin and gloss. I remove the old lacquer finish with lacquer thinner. I tape the checkering with blue painter's tape and sand the wood as little as possible to get a good smooth finish. I seal the wood with a coat of bullseye shellac. I then spray the wood with Watco spray shellac in 3 light coats. Let dry for at least 3 hours and repeat if necessary. Another benefit of lacquer is that it can be touched up without witness lines.

Great method. I must try this

 

[cstanmiller]

I used Truoil in the past but it would dry up in the bottle by the time I would need it again.
I found that using it in the spray can I can spray a little on the wood and rub it in with my finger
and it never dries up between uses.

 

[javbike]

I used truoil before I found you have to break up a little with paint thinner or it’s too shiny looking for me