Disappointed… but it’s partly on me

[45Smashemflat]

I’ve bought several guns off of the GB site and generally made out OK. Often it’s the only place to even find some specific guns.

A while back, I got a hankering for a 5 Screw K38 to sort of match up with a shooter grade K22 I found in a local shop. The K22 was a Combat Masterpiece, so that is what I was looking for in a K38.

I found one that had been refinished, but looked to be a good job, and it still had the grips numbered to the gun. However, the hammer and trigger got blued with the gun. While I liked it, and it shoots well, I really wanted a proper trigger and hammer that was still cased.

@Shotguncoach schooled me on finding “gun buster parts kits” and other tips, and I was able to find a matched set with his guidance. (Thanks!)

I went to pop them in this evening and took my time disassembling the K38, and I got to the part where you tap the grip frame with your rubber screwdriver handle, and the side plate eased right up. What surprised me was the noise it made as it popped loose did not sound quite right… and there was not little “extra part” that typically bounces off my bench when I do this. Yep, no hammer block part was installed. . Boo!

Why would someone do that?!? That said, I guess I need to plan to fully disassemble any future purchases within any agreed upon “inspection” window. I feel a bit like a noob.

 

[Muley Gil]

Some folks are under the impression that removing the hammer block makes the action "smoother".

 

[handejector]

That said, I guess I need to plan to fully disassemble any future purchases within any agreed upon “inspection” window.

No, you don't.
Cock the hammer slowly and simply look for the little bar sliding down.

 

[Shotguncoach]

Dude! You scared the bejeezus out of me when I saw this pop up in my feed:



I almost had to take one of my jumpstart pills….then I read your post LOL.

Roughly 1/4 of the guns that I get as trainwrecks have had the hammer block removed. I’ve got a pile of them from parts kits, so I just fit one and move on.

If you need one I can drop one in the mail for you next week.

 

[jimmyj]

In the 1960/ 1970 era removing the hammer block was a common practice as was cutting 2.5 coils off the trigger return spring.

 

[stansdds]

Removal of the hammer block, cutting a coil or two from the return spring, shortening the strain screw, all are/were attempts at creating a lighter trigger pull, often done by people who did not fully understand how S&W revolvers worked.

 

[LittleAugieMo]

Inspection perod generaly doesn't allow for disassembly.....just sayin'

 

[45Smashemflat]

Dude! You scared the bejeezus out of me when I saw this pop up in my feed:

View attachment 783682

I almost had to take one of my jumpstart pills….then I read your post LOL.

Roughly 1/4 of the guns that I get as trainwrecks have had the hammer block removed. I’ve got a pile of them from parts kits, so I just fit one and move on.

If you need one I can drop one in the mail for you next week.

Ha! I should have thought about that! Sorry to give you a startle!

 

[M29since14]

I’ve bought several used S&Ws that appeared to be in nice condition, but were missing the hammer block. It annoys me that people think such tampering is worthwhile and justifiable, but I get even more annoyed when I forget to check for that and find it after I’ve been using the gun for a year or more. I just never think about people being so deliberately irresponsible with a deadly weapon.

 

[45Smashemflat]

I’ve bought several used S&Ws that appeared to be in nice condition, but were missing the hammer block. It annoys me that people think such tampering is worthwhile and justifiable, but I get even more annoyed when I forget to check for that and find it after I’ve been using the gun for a year or more. I just never think about people being so deliberately irresponsible with a deadly weapon.

Mine hadn’t been quite that long, but I’m still embarrassed that I had not opened it up until now. I’ve had it about 9 months. (I agree that the hammer block is visible without disassembly, just never thought to look.)

I’ve learned my lesson though, I’ve torn the 64.5 I bought from @Shotguncoach completely apart looking for flaws. I found a small piece of lint inside the rebound slide. Tsk tsk!

 

[Shotguncoach]

Check the channel in the frame where the bolt lives…there’s usually at least one dog hair there. Max likes to contribute.

 

[MelvinWalker]

That said, I guess I need to plan to fully disassemble any future purchases within any agreed upon “inspection” window. I feel a bit like a noob.

I doubt that 99.58976% of sellers would allow a disassembly of a S&W revolver, (including sideplate), in an inspection period...

I wouldn't.

 

[H Richard]

I guess I have been lucky, of all the S&W's I have bought over the years, I never got one without a hammer block (except those pre-war guns that didn't have one. I have found however, several having the rebound spring cut, and/or the main spring having been filed down.
Lots of shooters looking for the elusive ultimate trigger.

 

[45Smashemflat]

Guys, I get it that disassembling a revolver would not be allowed. Perhaps could have phrased it better, but my point is that is a big risk with online auctions.

Being able to be able to at least hold the gun in your hands ahead of a purchase is certainly my preference. But not always possible if I’m looking for something that never shows up in my local shops.

 

[tybochip]

Like everyone here, I will spend a good amount of time inspecting a revolver before I buy it. Recently I bought 29-3 at my LGS, everything checked out and I brought it home. Took out to my backyard range and shot a couple cylinders of specials. Loved it. I then loaded a cylinder of mags and after the fourth shot I felt pain on my forehead and and some blood. The rear sight assembly had come off. Fortunately it missed my eye and the blood was just a trickle. Apparently someone had messed up the screw hole. Sad they put it on the market knowing it had a problem. Another thing to look for in the future.

 

[M29since14]

Shame about your 29-3. It can be repaired, but unless you can do it yourself it’s liable to be a bit expensive. If the screw is ok, I’d probably try a sliver of copper wire in the screw hole as a temporary fix, but if the threads are completely shot that probably won’t work. Micro welding, re-drilling and tapping, refinishing, etc., would be an expensive fix.

It’s pretty tough to find every possible defect before purchasing.

 

[MelvinWalker]

Shame about your 29-3. It can be repaired, but unless you can do it yourself it’s liable to be a bit expensive. If the screw is ok, I’d probably try a sliver of copper wire in the screw hole as a temporary fix, but if the threads are completely shot that probably won’t work. Micro welding, re-drilling and tapping, refinishing, etc., would be an expensive fix.

It’s pretty tough to find every possible defect before purchasing.

I remember this would occasionally happen with classic Ford FE engines back in the day... Sometimes the fuel pump would work it's way loose from the engine and in turn, wallow the threads out in the block, (after being re-tightened several times).

I remember a really sharp mechanic figured out a fix... He would chase the threads with the existing sized bolt and then he would run a tap in that was the tiniest bigger metric size than the original SAE... He then put an identical but bigger metric bolt in, and it never ceased to fix it..

I did this once with an old Marlin .22 I had that kept losing the trigger guard.