Model 27 No Dash Mystery - Experts Please Weigh In

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My Model 27 is in beautiful condition with only one minor ding on the frame. It has deep bluing and no signs of a refinish. There are no factory rework stamps on the grip frame, the assembly numbers on the crane & grip frame match, all of the markings are sharp, there are no gaps where the sideplate mates to the frame, there are no dished screw holes, and the bluing on the cylinder matches the rest of the gun perfectly. Here's my quandary: the cylinder does not have recessed chambers and the extractor star and its recess are machined much differently than what one would expect on a revolver shipped in 1961. The cylinder measures 1 9/16" which is indicative of a post 1982 cylinder. The timing and lockup are rock solid with no end shake or over rotation, but the cylinder is obviously a replacement. I have a factory letter which does not indicate that the gun was ever returned to the factory.

Here are my questions:
Should I replace the cylinder or leave it as is?
How much does the replacement cylinder hurt the value of the gun?
When did S&W begin using this extractor setup?

Thanks for your help.
 

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My Model 27 is in beautiful condition with only one minor ding on the frame. It has deep bluing and no signs of a refinish. There are no factory rework stamps on the grip frame, the assembly numbers on the crane & grip frame match, all of the markings are sharp, there are no gaps where the sideplate mates to the frame, there are no dished screw holes, and the bluing on the cylinder matches the rest of the gun perfectly. Here's my quandary: the cylinder does not have recessed chambers and the extractor star and its recess are machined much differently than what one would expect on a revolver shipped in 1961. The cylinder measures 1 9/16" which is indicative of a post 1982 cylinder. The timing and lockup are rock solid with no end shake or over rotation, but the cylinder is obviously a replacement. I have a factory letter which does not indicate that the gun was ever returned to the factory.

Here are my questions:
Should I replace the cylinder or leave it as is?
How much does the replacement cylinder hurt the value of the gun?
When did S&W begin using this extractor setup?

Thanks for your help.
If you plan on selling it, it would hurt the value and limit the market to have an incorrect cylinder. But it will likely be pretty expensive to find the correct parts you need in pristine condition. But if you do, you can sell the parts you're replacing - they are also valuable.

It looks to me like you have a 5" barrel. If that's the case, the gun will be in demand when you sell it, recessed cylinder or not. In the condition your gun is in, I believe a buyer would correct the parts and treat it as a collectible.
 
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The cylinder, extractor, extractor rod and stem have been replaced at some point. The new extractor rod and stem have an improved, left-hand thread. I have no idea why this was done, but it was certainly done well. I would leave the revolver as is and enjoy shooting it. If you replace the current set-up with one from a 27-2, you will have effectively turned your Model 27 into a Model 27-1 as it originally had an extractor rod with an old style, right-hand thread.

Bill
 
Some of the screw holes look slightly dished, and the sideplate to frame fit shows slight dishing too. Looks like a good refinish.
 
Gentlemen, thank you all for your input. I truly appreciate your help. When I receive the new cylinder & crane, I'll put them in just to see how well they work. Because of how tight the current setup is, I will most likely leave it as is and sell the 27-2 cylinder & crane.
 
It has deep bluing and no signs of a refinish. There are no factory rework stamps on the grip frame, the assembly numbers on the crane & grip frame match, all of the markings are sharp, there are no gaps where the sideplate mates to the frame, there are no dished screw holes, and the bluing on the cylinder matches the rest of the gun perfectly.
The Factory did not put rework marks on guns in later years. A Factory refinish does not usually show the signs you mention like dishing and gaps. Remember- they're the guys that polish them every day, so they know how to do it. If a gun is not heavily pitted and dinged, a light polish on the same machines that polished it to start with can be hard to detect.
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That is not carbona blue. That is hot salts. A 27 No Dash would have carbona blue, so we can be sure the gun was reblued and had a cyl replacement. Next sunny day, take that gun and an old gun with Bright carbona blue out into the sunlight. Tell me if you see a difference. ;)
 
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