Redoing some of my guitar work

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Some of the early fretwork I did, especially the first two guitars, turned out to be not quite as good as I thought. I decided to redo them. Worked tonight on the second fret job I did. Several of the online resources including some fairly well respected online luthiers recommend using fretwire that is slightly over radiused. Say 7.5 inch radius if you are going to end up with a 9.5 inch. That did not work so well with me, perhaps because I did not use a fret press to seat them. So, I decided to spend a bit more on tools and bought a cheap Chinese .5 ton arbor press and a good fret wire radius tool. Using bulk fret wire and the tool to cut down on cost and to be able to get the frets to be perfectly radiused before pressing. Set everything up tonight and pressed in all the frets on this Japanese Kingston Telecaster. Worked a charm and all the frets are fully seated. The previous frets were a bit proud in the middle and just would not fully seat. I did sand the fretboard again and chased the slots with a fret slot saw to make sure there was clearance. Sometime over the next 3 days I will dress the edges, level, crown, and polish. Also planning on replacing the original saddles with brass intonating versions. The originals were not the greatest.

Learning new stuff all the time, and the guitar practice has been exposing weaknesses in my early work, which is good. Can't get better until you learn what mistakes you made and find ways to do better. This arbor press is most definitely better. Once I finish this one I will turn to the first guitar I bought and worked on, my Squier Mustang HH. Going to do the frets again and replace the ceramic humbuckers with more traditional Gibson style. I want to add it to the rotation of guitars I am using for my practice learning to play.

Pics of the guitar being worked on tonight and the press setup.1JapaneseKingston70sTelecaster.webpFretArborPress.webp
 
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Ok the guitars that you have posted on other threads look awesome. I have no patience for doing things like this. BUT a question comes up now!! Do you trim the frets back to the wood itself or leave the long??
 
Ok the guitars that you have posted on other threads look awesome. I have no patience for doing things like this. BUT a question comes up now!! Do you trim the frets back to the wood itself or leave the long??
:LOL:Yes, I have fret nippers that cut them off very close to the wood and then a fret file that can be setup for different angles to file them flush with the wood. Then you dress, crown and polish them.
 
Thank you for the information. I for some reason just like to know how things work and why. Your pictures have been awesome and I look at everyone of them. Even though I cant carry a tune in a five gallon bucket they are awesome. Keep up the great work.
I have several projects still lined up plus I am redoing some of the work on the very first guitar I bought to fix. So there will be more pictures over the next several months at least.
 
To those playing, beginners or musicians, what are you studying and with a teacher or web/book based?

Moveable Major scale.
Moveable chords, useful while your first finger/thumb gain strength for those type of Barre chords.
Strings without finger dots, are muted.

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My 11 pound Tele.
Fingerboard pickup is a custom made double stack.
A vertical humbucker. 🙄

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As with any repair or build job, the prep work is everything.
And, you need to know your variables.

Wood species & fret slot width, fret tang width, fret barb width, fret alloy (hardness), etc.
Regardless of installation method (hammer, press, glue) I strongly believe radius should exactly match between fret and fingerboard. Anything else and you'll end up with too much force needed to install the fret or too much tension needed to retain the fret.
Taken together, you can manipulate any of the various dimensions to get the exact fit needed. That can include changing the fret slot width and/or altering the barb in the fretwire.
After the prep work, if the radius of the fret and wood match you can better control a precise seating of the fret. And, it doesn't take much to hold a fret in place. Remember, you're gonna wear out the frets at some point and need to replace them. You don't want to be tearing out the wood to do it.
If you're fret seating is exact (get the fingerboard relief and truss rod tension right first!), quite often there is no need to do any fret dressing. Just clean the ends of the frets and string it up.
 

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