Upside Down Shoulder Holster

jj2am44

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Back in October of 1968, I was a 19 year old at a college here in Pa. when Bullitt came out. Second only to the car was McQueen's upside down shoulder holster that I fell in love with after I got the gun itch. I actually had a Bianchi 9R for awhile and it was extremely comfortable. I sold the gun I carried in it and was looking for one for my 686 Plus-an L Frame. None of the major holster makers made one. I know Nevada Gun Leather makes one, but I was stumbling around the internet and found Vega Holsters. Located in Italy, they made one. I ordered it last Sunday and it arrived here on Thursday-from Italy. Cost was under $70.00 and they charged me $10 to ship. It is a great holster--very comfortable with my 686+. Check them out at Vega Holster shop for firearms

 
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Back in October of 1968, I was a 19 year old at a college here in Pa. when Bullitt came out. Second only to the car was McQueen's upside down shoulder holster that I fell in love with after I got the gun itch. I actually had a Bianchi 9R for awhile and it was extremely comfortable. I sold the gun I carried in it and was looking for one for my 686 Plus-an L Frame. None of the major holster makers made one. I know Nevada Gun Leather makes one, but I was stumbling around the internet and found Vega Holsters. Located in Italy, they made one. I ordered it last Sunday and it arrived here on Thursday-from Italy. Cost was under $70.00 and they charged me $10 to ship. It is a great holster--very comfortable with my 686+. Check them out at Vega Holster shop for firearms


Nice find!--- Thanks

I have a 9R I got in the mid 70s for my Model 60 and I have put a lot of miles on it. I really like the holster as its very comfortable and extremely concealable. The only draw back is it requires the small factory wood. (But I can live with that):)
 
I like this idea, is the retention just friction, or is it grabbing the back of the trigger guard? Are you saying the rubber grips pictured are no good? I would like to keep my Hogue Bantams.
 
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The elastic over the top strap holds the gun into the holster by forcing the trigger guard into the pocket. Not real hard to get out, but putting it in, you have to shove the top strap into the elastic, then shoving the trigger guard back in. Not as hard as it sounds. I forgot to add in my original post, that they had these in stock.
 
And it is an excellent idea, when holstering a revolver with a hammer, to keep your thumb on the back of the hammer, lest it catch on the elastic and you find yourself running around with a cocked .357 pointed at your armpit.

Ask me how I learned that.

I got a lot of mileage out of mine, before and after the lesson.
 
For $80 delivered it looks pretty good. I have a Bianchi 9R for a J-frame and it is a very well designed rig, although I haven't used it in a looong time. I may have to dig it out and reacquaint myself with it. The upside down rigs certainly fill a niche.

MB
 
I have an old Safariland 19. Holster is great and it was comfortable with my M-19 2 1/2" Need to get the elastic replaced. OK for off duty but it puts the gun in a position that's easier for the person in front of you to access. Same with cross draw. On duty not in uniform always had a pancake just behind my right hip. Easy for me but not for the other guy.
 
Oops!

Had a similar holster for my Model 60 circa 1977 and was wearing it in Pierce Street Annex in Fort Lauderdale when the gun came out of the holster, cartwheeled several feet across the floor when it landed, and then slid over the floor edge to another level a couple feet lower. Was a rather embarrassing moment whilst I retrieved it and reholstered before resuming my conversation with a rather lovely young lady. No harm, no foul, however.

Be safe.

PS: I now have an upside down shoulder rig that I use exclusively whilst driving for trips of several hours...or more.
 
This looks like a nicely made holster. I have been considering such a style to carry a 642. But I wonder, and as mentioned in post #2, that with the Bianchi model the standard wood stocks are required. I have read elsewhere that the rubber grips will not allow the trigger guard to fully seat in the holster (Bianchi), possibly compromising retention.

OP - you have rubbers on your gun - do they cause any interference? And - thanks for passing this info along.
 
Be aware that a modern version of what is the old Colt holster by Wolfram circa 1960, or even a used Berns-Martin or Bianchi, should be able to pass the "snap test".

We had to develop a test at Bianchi in order to predict that our designs and our production would cure the growing awareness that short revolvers were falling from the elasticised holsters. And just last year an old Bianchi 209, purchased be a client of mine, still passed that test.

The test: unloaded revolver in the holster, seated as best you know how. Holding the rig over a bed with one hand clutching the centre of the leather harness, lift and then snap the holster hard towards the bed's surface. If the revolver becomes unseated, even if it doesn't fall to the bed: throw the rig away. If it stays fully seated, it's a keeper!

On used holsters it's both the elastic, and the springs, that become overstretched. On new holsters its makers who don't understand why there is a leather spacer near the muzzle of a Berns-Martin, and a screw post assembly on a Bianchi: it's a fulcrum that forces the revolver to exit the spring opening rather than simply pivoting inside the holster to clear the trigger guard pocket.

On the 209 this was accomplished by sculpting the holster seam near the ejector rod a la Safariland. You all don't necessarily need to know the science; just make sure your holsters will pass the test.
 
Thanks Red, had a Bianchi 9R but it would shift to the rear when I went to draw it. Didn't keep it. Guess I bought it for the coolness factor.

My favorite Bianchi rig was the Chapman holster for the Gov't 45, loved that rig.
 
Thanks Red, had a Bianchi 9R but it would shift to the rear when I went to draw it. Didn't keep it. Guess I bought it for the coolness factor.

My favorite Bianchi rig was the Chapman holster for the Gov't 45, loved that rig.

It's one of my own favourites of my designs. The second prototype became the final version, all accomplished in just a couple of days. Ray was right there to give it his seal of approval. All the holsters made for his own use were black basket weave and we didn't make any others in that finish.

The Chapman came about because crusty old Col. Cooper, at my meet with him at the formation of IPSC in '76 at Columbia, sent me over to Ray rather than be bothered with it himself. Old animosities with John went too deep. Ironically that led to our relationship with Ray turning into the Bianchi Cup series -- it was Ray's idea, not John's -- which event Jeff called the Balkanising of pistol shooting styles.

The 9R is drawn horizontally across the chest, as with the BM, and so won't slip back under the armpit when drawing.
 
This looks like a nicely made holster. I have been considering such a style to carry a 642. But I wonder, and as mentioned in post #2, that with the Bianchi model the standard wood stocks are required. I have read elsewhere that the rubber grips will not allow the trigger guard to fully seat in the holster (Bianchi), possibly compromising retention.

OP - you have rubbers on your gun - do they cause any interference? And - thanks for passing this info along.

Viceunit

The rubber grips on my 686+ in no way interfere with the seating of the gun. It actually snaps into position. The day may come when it doesn't, but I think that day is far off. I did rednichols' holster test and the gun never moved. Hope this helps.
 
rednichols, did you design this one? My favorite for the J frame S&W's.
Bianchi.jpg
 
Yes indeed the 209 pictured, and the moulded version called the 208, are my designs; as are the 9Rs with the twin belt loops and hammer spur guard. Though these designs rely heavily on those who came before me, neverteless they are vastly improved in form, fit and function over both the original 9 and the original 9R. Not least because the 209 carries the revolver at 45deg vs the 90 deg angle of the earlier designs.

The original 9R (in its first catalogue appearance without post and screw) is a clear example of why a holster must be configured not to merely work, but to work 'for the right reasons'. It was a significant lesson learnt for me because being part of the earliest 9R's development, it became obvious that while it did work, the guns were falling out, too. Adding the post screw forced it to work for the right reasons: that is, the gun couldn't fall out, too.

That lesson has informed all my designs since.
 
You did real well with this design

I own two of these. The 5BH/5BHL, Shadow 8L, X 15/2000/2100, and Askins Avenger are other favorites of mine. I own several of these model, except the AA. I gave it and my .40 S&W BHP to my son a few years ago.
 
And it is an excellent idea, when holstering a revolver with a hammer, to keep your thumb on the back of the hammer, lest it catch on the elastic and you find yourself running around with a cocked .357 pointed at your armpit.

Buford57: I learned from my LEO friends that unless it's a stiff or reinforced mouthed belt holster, the safest thing to do is to remove the holster, then holster the piece, and then remount the holster. I know, it takes a bit more time, and you lose the "cool" factor, but it is safer.

__________________________________

FYI - My Bianchi 9R holsters will easily accommodate any of my J-frames that are equipped with CT Laser Grips.

Regards,

Dave
 
verticle shoulder holster

. . . Holster is great . . . Need to get the elastic replaced . . .

Be aware that a modern version . . . or even a used Berns-Martin or Bianchi . . . should be able to pass the "snap test" . . . to predict . . . the growing awareness that short revolvers were falling from the elasticised holsters.

. . . If the revolver becomes unseated, even if it doesn't fall to the bed: throw the rig away. If it stays fully seated, it's a keeper!


I have a Bianchi shoulder holster (9 or 9R ?) for a 3" heavy bbl J-frame that does not pass the snap test. Have tried to find someone to replace the elastic but have been told it would be impractical to do so.

Has anyone successfully replaced the elastic? Or do I take Red's advice and "throw the rig away"?






Thanks, Russ
 
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