Naval Jelly on rust???

CAJUNLAWYER

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I've got an 870 that has a splotch of rust on the barrel. This is my "go to" and cosmetics for this one don't bother me. Any reason not to use naval jelly on the spot to get the rust off down to the bare metal and then coatin it with one of those bake on finishes? Going one step further what would be the most durable finish ot put on this keeping in mind that it cost $250 new.
 
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i have removed rust with navel jelly...but not on a gun..just never had a reason to do so...i have removed it from a gun using 000 steel wool and kroil....perhaps try the birchwood casey touch up bluing pen after removing the rust
 
I got some rust on my new 22 when I was a kid.Naval jelly took it right off with the blue :-0 ,so I cold blued that section of the barrel and it's still there.
 
Naval jelly will certainly remove the rust, but blueing is rust also so it will remove it also.

Check out "ospho-blue" available from Brownells at about +/- $10.

Give their tech. assist dept. a call to get an idea of ease of use, durability, ETC.
 
Just rub a little oil on it with a rag.

I thought of writing a few paragraphs on the subject but I am a little tired today.:)
 
It is only the barrel? This is as hard or easy as you wish. The easiest/ cheapest way to remove the rust; wire brush, sand paper, sand blast or whatever means you have (Navel Jelly should be OK). If the pitting is too deep for safe firing, cut and dress the end (If this causes a NFA problem replace the barrel. If the depth of the rust is not a problem, smooth the rusted area until you'll satisfied. As suggested you could cold blue, but you barrel will easily rust again. Second choice; go to the hardware and get a can of spray paint or better would be get DURO EXTEND (I used this on a front crash bumper on my 4x4 and repelled the Ohio road salt). Third choice Brownells sells some very good spray on products, some are bake on, or get a parkerizing kit (as already mentioned) Personally, I'd sand blast it white and parkerize it, but I do that stuff fairly often. And lastly, take it to the gunsmith and have him reblue it. (BBQ black paint would be your cheapest choice). Ivan
 
Have you ever thought of leaving Bayou Teche behind and moving to some place without all that heat and humidity for over half the year? I am sure you could find some great deals on a nice house in up state New York, where they do not have to deal with the heat and humidity. After you get to know the new neighbors and let them see the guns, I am sure in about a year, you would not be worrying about any rust on any of your firearms. O, by the way, the best way to strip a gun for a reblue is to use navel jelly. It does take it to bare metal with min. work.
 
Navel Jelly works and will remove all the bluing, Sure you have enough, get all your friends and drink a lot, and scoop out enough navels.:eek:

For a Finish coat I recommend Wal Mart Black BBQ Paint.:D
 
I would do as Onomea suggests. A little more work work but easy to control. A problem with naval jelly is if you get a drop where you don't want or if it runs while rinsing.
 
I don't know about any sort of paint type finishes afterwards,,but NavalJelly will do the trick very quickly on hot salt type bluing.
Takes longer on rust blued surfaces but still works OK.

It may leave the surface a little uneven looking when done with streaks of dark gray on the bare steel. But a quick going over with something a simple as scotchbrite (the green scouring pad would work fine in this instance),,and the surface will be right back to where you need it.

The good thing about using NavalJelly or even Muriadic acid is that it gets the rust out of the deep down pitted areas so it doesn't com back after finishing. Just like working on a car!

You can use a very diluted soln of muriadic acid (pool acid) in room temp water.
Only about 2 tbs /per gal of water. You don't have to plug bores or worry about disappearing lettering. It'll only remove the bluing and take about 5 minutes or so to do it.
***Just don't forget about the part(s) and leave them in over night! You will have some extra polishing and bore honing work at that point. ***
Rinse well with either system after use. Use a common spray on kitchen cleaner in the process to neutralize the acid content in either which isn't much anyway.
Then either go ahead and finish the steel or protect it from rusting at that point with a light coat of oil if it's to sit around.

The acid strip you can do in a piece of PVC pipe w/an end cap screwed or glued on. You won't need much soln to do a bbl that way.
Neutralize the un-needed afterwards with baking soda unless you're keeping it for the next job like I do.
It keeps working for years.
 
Robar offers a variety of finishes, some of which are extremely corrosion resistant, such as NP3 --- not inexpensive, but probably a once-and-done treatment.
 
Are you wanting to take only the spot of rust off and only use a bake finish on that spot?

If it is just that spot use light oil and keep working the area with steel wool. When the spot is clean and has had all oil removed use something like Birchwood casey cold blue or some better stuff by Brownells. Use clean rags or a q-Tip and keep adding blue until it is close. Wipe it down and oil it.
 
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