Gun Safe Electronic Failure

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Sorry if this is a re-visit to an old subject, I did a search and found nothing regarding this problem.
First cousin called and advised that he is unable to open his safe, I right away I told him his battery is dead, his reply is that the transformer and the fail safe device will not allow entry either!
I'm asking if any of you folks have had this happen and what you were able to do to open your safe short of damaging to gain entry? The manufacturer is out of business according to him and although Winchester offered a similar safe they were not able or willing to offer any help. I haven't seen it nor am I familiar with this type of locking device. Thanks for any help you can offer!
 
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High security electronic safe locks are very sensitive to battery power. All of our safe locks require a 9-volt ALKALINE ENERGIZER® or DURACELL®. Most likely, your lock will not operate properly if a battery other than this is used.

Hard to believe but worth a shot.
 
Comrad

I appreciate your suggestion, I will try to explain the fail safe back-up system as I understand it: I believe this was furnished with the safe and is a transformer that likely drops the voltage in addition to rectifying so as to produce the required DC voltage. He says there is a "jack" under the door where he plugs this into the safe which supplies proper voltage for replacement of the dead battery and for opening the safe at the same time! Is this something you or anyone else has a solution for? Again, thanks for trying to help!

zzzippper: I do not know the brand but will be glad to make a call to him if it will help!
Got the Brand: TREDLOK 757
 
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Only other recourse would be to call in a locksmith if you can't get it working. Just did a google search and he isn't the only one with this problem. It can happen to any safe but without the company being in business anymore looks like a lock smith is the only recourse. Maybe you can try the lock mechanism manufacture but I doubt they will help..
 
Some safes with electronic locks have a back-up key/key hole behind the elec. lock. One of mine does anyway. I keep the emergency key well hidden...

Most new safes come with a standard base line combo that the new user changes to his own personal choice. Might need the factory base numbers to open it after a battery change..

Larry
 
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I right away I told him his battery is dead, his reply is that the transformer and the fail safe device will not allow entry either!

Does the external power supply (transformer) energize the locking mechanism
-1 does the lock recognize keypad inputs with confirmation beeps, but does not open with the correct combination?

-2 or does it not properly power on the lock - still acts like a dead battery?

If 1, then as suggested above by Fishinfool, try the factory default combination.

If 2, then the power supply may be defective and need replacing. You could use a generic version (correct voltage and current rating) or by using an actual battery connected to the wires. Watch the polarity +/- in both cases. (FYI - red wire or wire with red stripe = + connection, black wire = negative connection. Batteries are marked with +/- symbols).

Does it take a 9volt battery?
 
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LoadEmUp & Fishinfool and others

Thanks, I'll pass these suggestions along to him, sounds like a solution could be forthcoming by employing these trouble shooting ideas.
 
I had a similar problem with one of our floor safes, couldn't get it to function and noticed a flashing red light. Got out the manual and realized it was the low voltage warning. Replaced the 9Volt battery and everything was good as new. Someone told me that if you let it go too far you will have to start from the beginning as if it were a new safe. I find that a little hard to believe as that would be an easy way to break into one, simply remove the battery and drain the system then reinstall the power and reboot.
 
One more thing after reading Kinman's post

Thanks Kinman,
The battery cannot be accessed without opening the safe, the back up transformer has to provide the necessary 9v power in order to get to the battery to replace it, he has not mentioned a red light so must not be equipped with the red light or it isn't functioning. Please, more troubleshooting suggestions and thanks for your help!
 
Some safes with electronic locks have a back-up key/key hole behind the elec. lock. One of mine does anyway. I keep the emergency key well hidden...

Most new safes come with a standard base line combo that the new user changes to his own personal choice. Might need the factory base numbers to open it after a battery change..

Larry

Although my safe is working fine - mine also comes with a key. The problem is I cannot find it. Have you seen it?
 
Smitty357

Its a TREADLOCK 757, he says the company is out of business and I believe he advises that the pad is subtly placed (somewhat inconspicuous) under the name on the door! Do not believe he can take a photo but will ask.
For those who say it may revert back to factory applied code, he doesn't have or know it and it not on the paperwork he retained! Also advises the safe is 30+ years old! Thanks, all suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
 
First, measure the voltage at the end of the wire from the transformer that plugs into the safe. It's not uncommon for 30 year old electronics to die. If he doesn't have 9VDC then you know the problem.

Secondly, if the transformer is working, call a locksmith. I know this has been mentioned, but it's the fastest way into the safe. It might cost $100, but that is the price we pay for mistakes like this sometimes.

Once the safe is open, by whatever means, get a new safe. Seriously, having to open the safe to replace the necessary battery is a really bad design.
 
Once the safe is open, by whatever means, get a new safe. Seriously, having to open the safe to replace the necessary battery is a really bad design.

Or at least run a parallel set of wire to the outside so you can hook up a battery in a emergency like this.


Although my safe is working fine - mine also comes with a key. The problem is I cannot find it. Have you seen it?

That's easy you put it in a safe location where it would be safe and you will know where it's at.:eek: Just look there.
 
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Saw this from another forum after quick curiosity search...

"Friend of mine had one like that. I was over at his house one time when he wanted to get into the safe and the battery was dead. He pulled out a pigtail type device that took a 9v battery IIRC and plugged the pigtail into a socket at the bottom of the safe. This energized the internal circuits and he was able to then punch in his combination. Voila. It opened. No keypad or combination. You just punch the letters on the Treadlok label in a certain order for the safe to open."

and

"” I take no responsibility for this but if your handy try using a power supply and hit it with 12 or 16 VDC. The IC board should have a regulator to provide anywhere from 1.3 to 5 V to the internals, thus you could hit the soliniod with the higher voltage and maybe get it to trip. If not call granite security (817)561-9095 as they offer a lifetime warranty on the new ones (treadlock) see if they'll help you out."

That guy did get his open but..." after drilling 7 holes boo hiss the culprit was a corroded capacitor and a loose terminal one or the other now to repair those and weld up the holes then repaint."


These were from ...2004 ish So good luck!
 
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Funny thing is that's exactly what I did. I just forget where the safe location is!!

Try cleaning the garage (attic?). That's what I've been doing and I'm finding stuff I've been looking for for years....:D:o;)
 
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