I put a new battery in it about a month ago, and it's worked great until yesterday. Battery shows 13 volts on multi meter. Lights won't come on, starter doesn't turn...nothing. Jumping it with a car battery doesn't help. Battery cable terminals are clean and tight.
I'm sure this is something simple, but have no idea where to start looking.
I doubt it's a bad safety switch, or else the lights should still work. Perhaps a bad ignition switch?

It's either electrical. fuel or mechanical.

Impossible to tell, how about a fuse? I still would guess a safety cut off.

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Still Running Against the Wind

My guess would be a safety switch. My old Cub Cadet ZTR has several and are really frustrating at times. Mine is a residential model and I think the commercial models have a few less.

A bad battery cable connection at the other end will cause the same problem. Check where the hot lead connects to the starter solenoid or more likely where the ground lead attaches to the frame or block.

If the ground attaches to the block there is likely a ground strap connecting it to the frame, check it.

I did have to relocate the ground when installing the new battery because the terminals were backwards. It worked fine for a month afterward.

The positive cable looks good on both ends.

That was my first thought, but a safety switch shouldn't prevent the lights from working should it?

I had a Troy Bilt which exhibited the same problems. I showed fully charged yet nothing worked. Put in a new battery and problem went away.

So, try using your jumper cable directly from the battery negative to a shiny spot on the engine.

Powder coat paint has caused more than one bad ground.

No, probably not.
Perhaps a faulty relay or fuse???

I'm assuming this is a riding/tractor? Make sure the safety disconnect button that gets depressed when you plant your A++ on the seat is working
.

If you can not fix it with a bigger hammer, then it must be an electrical problem

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On the Oak Savannah

Bet you a cold drink that is where the problem lies.

Is the new ground on the same structure as before or did you move it from the frame to the block or vice-versa?

To start mine ya gotta be set down & brake lever all the wat depressed. 2 interlocks.

Only 2 interlocks? On my cub cadet ztr; the seat, brake and both steering sticks must be in position and the blade disengaged.

Right. I know how to crank it, it just won't crank. Like I said earlier, if it was something like that, the lights should still work.

You all have given me several things to look at. Thanks to all who have responded.

It's on the same piece of metal, just a different spot. Could be the problem, by it seems odd that it worked fine for a month.

Hi Greg

Check the connections on the ignition switch. I'm not that familiar with Dixons, but it should be either a multi conductor plug or several stab connectors.

If something comes lose back there, it can kill the whole show.

Good Luck

OP - if you type your original title into google, it gives you a number of similar problems from other users. The first link is pretty comprehensive, tells you where your circuit breaker is, how to measure the voltage, and how to "acid test" by taking an old screw driver and shorting between the posts on the starter.

I don't think we're supposed to cross link but google will get you there!

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Really? U saw it in Wikipedia?

Pro tip: Don't use one of your good Snap On screwdrivers...

You guys are great as always!

I cleaned up the ground connection and the mower started.

Turned on the mower deck, and the engine quit.

Bought and installed a new seat safety switch, and I'm back in business.

While I had everything apart, and made a trip to the store, I also replaced the mower deck switch for good measure as well, as it felt well worn.

I'm not good at tracing down these electrical problems, and I really appreciate all your help. Couldn't have done it without you all!