Dixon ztr mower won't start

gregintenn · Jun 8, 2016

I put a new battery in it about a month ago, and it's worked great until yesterday. Battery shows 13 volts on multi meter. Lights won't come on, starter doesn't turn...nothing. Jumping it with a car battery doesn't help. Battery cable terminals are clean and tight.
I'm sure this is something simple, but have no idea where to start looking.
I doubt it's a bad safety switch, or else the lights should still work. Perhaps a bad ignition switch?

Rule3 · Jun 8, 2016

It's either electrical. fuel or mechanical.

Impossible to tell, how about a fuse? I still would guess a safety cut off.

jack the toad · Jun 8, 2016

My guess would be a safety switch. My old Cub Cadet ZTR has several and are really frustrating at times. Mine is a residential model and I think the commercial models have a few less.

zonker5 · Jun 8, 2016

A bad battery cable connection at the other end will cause the same problem. Check where the hot lead connects to the starter solenoid or more likely where the ground lead attaches to the frame or block.

If the ground attaches to the block there is likely a ground strap connecting it to the frame, check it.

gregintenn · Jun 8, 2016

zonker5 said:
A bad battery cable connection at the other end will cause the same problem. Check where the hot lead connects to the starter solenoid or more likely where the ground lead attaches to the frame or block.

If the ground attaches to the block there is likely a ground strap connecting it to the frame, check it.

I did have to relocate the ground when installing the new battery because the terminals were backwards. It worked fine for a month afterward.

The positive cable looks good on both ends.

gregintenn · Jun 8, 2016

jack the toad said:
My guess would be a safety switch. My old Cub Cadet ZTR has several and are really frustrating at times. Mine is a residential model and I think the commercial models have a few less.

That was my first thought, but a safety switch shouldn't prevent the lights from working should it?

Targets Guy · Jun 8, 2016

I had a Troy Bilt which exhibited the same problems. I showed fully charged yet nothing worked. Put in a new battery and problem went away.

SweetMK · Jun 8, 2016

gregintenn said:
I did have to relocate the ground when installing the new battery because the terminals were backwards. It worked fine for a month afterward.

The positive cable looks good on both ends.

So, try using your jumper cable directly from the battery negative to a shiny spot on the engine.

Powder coat paint has caused more than one bad ground.

jack the toad · Jun 8, 2016

gregintenn said:
That was my first thought, but a safety switch shouldn't prevent the lights from working should it?

No, probably not.
Perhaps a faulty relay or fuse???

cougar14 · Jun 8, 2016

I'm assuming this is a riding/tractor? Make sure the safety disconnect button that gets depressed when you plant your A++ on the seat is working
.

SAFireman · Jun 8, 2016

If you can not fix it with a bigger hammer, then it must be an electrical problem

zonker5 · Jun 8, 2016

gregintenn said:
I did have to relocate the ground when installing the new battery because the terminals were backwards. It worked fine for a month afterward.

The positive cable looks good on both ends.

Bet you a cold drink that is where the problem lies.

Is the new ground on the same structure as before or did you move it from the frame to the block or vice-versa?

Fishslayer · Jun 9, 2016

cougar14 said:
I'm assuming this is a riding/tractor? Make sure the safety disconnect button that gets depressed when you plant your A++ on the seat is working
.

To start mine ya gotta be set down & brake lever all the wat depressed. 2 interlocks.

jack the toad · Jun 9, 2016

Only 2 interlocks? On my cub cadet ztr; the seat, brake and both steering sticks must be in position and the blade disengaged.

gregintenn · Jun 9, 2016

Fishslayer said:
To start mine ya gotta be set down & brake lever all the wat depressed. 2 interlocks.

Right. I know how to crank it, it just won't crank. Like I said earlier, if it was something like that, the lights should still work.

You all have given me several things to look at. Thanks to all who have responded.

gregintenn · Jun 9, 2016

zonker5 said:
Bet you a cold drink that is where the problem lies.

Is the new ground on the same structure as before or did you move it from the frame to the block or vice-versa?

It's on the same piece of metal, just a different spot. Could be the problem, by it seems odd that it worked fine for a month.

LoadedRound · Jun 9, 2016

Hi Greg

Check the connections on the ignition switch. I'm not that familiar with Dixons, but it should be either a multi conductor plug or several stab connectors.

If something comes lose back there, it can kill the whole show.

Good Luck

smokindog · Jun 9, 2016

OP - if you type your original title into google, it gives you a number of similar problems from other users. The first link is pretty comprehensive, tells you where your circuit breaker is, how to measure the voltage, and how to "acid test" by taking an old screw driver and shorting between the posts on the starter.

I don't think we're supposed to cross link but google will get you there!

Fishslayer · Jun 9, 2016

smokindog said:
OP - if you type your original title into google, it gives you a number of similar problems from other users. The first link is pretty comprehensive, tells you where your circuit breaker is, how to measure the voltage, and how to "acid test" by taking an old screw driver and shorting between the posts on the starter.

I don't think we're supposed to cross link but google will get you there!

Pro tip: Don't use one of your good Snap On screwdrivers...

gregintenn · Jun 11, 2016

You guys are great as always!

I cleaned up the ground connection and the mower started.

Turned on the mower deck, and the engine quit.

Bought and installed a new seat safety switch, and I'm back in business.

While I had everything apart, and made a trip to the store, I also replaced the mower deck switch for good measure as well, as it felt well worn.

I'm not good at tracing down these electrical problems, and I really appreciate all your help. Couldn't have done it without you all!

Dixon ztr mower won't start

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