Wondering if anyone has used it. I get really bored in the winter and I thought I might try it for something to do (sit down project). Looked all over for a worthless no value gun to try it on, I'm not one of those people that would mess up a gun that may have value. Looked all over for a .22 bolt in bad condition because their easy to take apart (none around when your looking for one) so I found a Winchester model 20 12ga. pump. To try it on.
Any thoughts on Dura Coat would be appreciated .

I used it once but did not care for it. The biggest part of refinishing a firearm is to make sure you prep it well. Solvents and blasting are a necessity. Be careful how thick you put it on as some parts will not go back together or fit right. There are other/better spray on finishes that will serve you better. Just my 2 cents.

What are the others ? I'm open to suggestions, I just need something to do besides starring at the TV

Prep is everything and it takes a long time to cure.I had a 1911 done and got a strong solvent on the slide the next day.Half of the finish bubbled off and the other half was a bear to strip.I left it with a duracoated frame and a black factory undercoat on the slide.The finish on the lower has held up well for a couple of years.

There are some spray on epoxy finishes that are better to work with. I haven't used any epoxy sprays yet myself but I have had some of my pistol slides done by a member on the Sig Forum. I forget which one he uses but the outcome was excellent. I was going to try it myself but he charges so little and does an excellent job fast. He is done in less than a week ,(which is quick considering how long some of the bigger companies take(can be months). With all he does and has, it's easier and cheaper overall(if you don't have all of the tools/equipment to prep your guns, it can add up quick). It is nice to do your own work and get the satisfaction of doing it but be patient and take your time.

You may want to try this spray on epoxy finish -BROWNELLS - ALUMA-HYDE® II. Shooting friend shows up a couple of years ago at my range with his new high end, high dollar long range rifle. Finish looked great and this is a full custom gun. what is this?? well, he explains he did the finish job with Aluma-Hyde. I finished my first AR last year, high end long range wildcat, I pained the barrel and hand guard FDE to match the stock and grip and I too am getting nice comments to those who see the gun. Prep is the key, it is just paint and warming the parts and warming the fresh paint for cure is a step for a great job. I can recommend this and these cans are about $ 12-14 and will cover quite a bit of surface. Yep, try an old clunker and see how it turns out.

Kenv1950, I have used the duracoat and have had no problems with it. Like arjay says if you put a strong solvent on it the next day it will come off but so will every other paint out there. I use an airbrush with the duracoat thinned and put on normally 2 good coats. Let it hang until the next day and keep it away from solvents for a while. I painted a .22-250 for my youngest son in the dark earth and several months later he decided he wanted it back in black. I tried to remove the green with lacquer thinner but no dice. Hit it with 400 grit and repainted black and it looked great. Yes a little care must be used to keep the paint out of close tolerance parts but the finish I apply is no thicker than parking a piece, so no problems with reassembly. Color comes out between a semi-gloss and flat. I have done cold blue , hot blue , rust blue, parkerizing, flat lacquer and duracoat. They all have applications where they are best bet and I will continue to use them all. Larry

As to the 2-part, epoxy based coatings that I'm aware of, in addition to Dura Coat, there's Cera Coat and KG Gunkote. Some have both an air dry and oven dry version. IIRC, the air dry takes quite a while (days) to fully cure.
I tried the Duracoat 2-part rattle can that doesn't require an airbrush. Once all the rust, grease/oil, dirt, etc. is removed, I used 400 grit sandpaper on remaining finish, then degreased again and went to spraying. Good lighting is essential so I painted outdoors in direct sunlight.

I used Dura Blue on an almost new Taurus 92PT and also on a Marlin Model 60 made in 1978.
The Marlin I did strip to metal and polished it with 600 grit paper. I taped off the receiver slide and plugged the barrel muzzle. Then I sprayed it down with the solvent cleaner that came with the Dura Blue kit. I hung the part from the ceiling and sprayed it with about 4 coats. Letting each coat flash for 13 minutes meanwhile shaking the can to keep the hardener and paint mixed before spraying the next coat. I wore rubber/latex gloves while handling the parts so I didn't get skin oil on the surfaces being painted. Least bit of oil on metal and you can/will have problems.

The Taurus I stripped down and removed the grips. I taped off where I didn't want painted. I used the scuff pad that came with the kit and sprayed it down with the degreaser from the kit. I hung each part from the ceiling also and plugged the muzzle. I taped off the ramp and the barrel opening. I sprayed it at the same time when I sprayed the rifle. Remove the tape or plugs as soon as done spraying so it doesn't adhere tape to painted surfaces after paint is dried.

This paint dries within an hour easily but I left them hanging over night. The kit says while the parts can be used lightly within a day or so it says the paint should be let to cure for 2 weeks. I did take the parts from outside painting area to inside the house and let them hang for 2 weeks before assembling the guns.

The finished result looked really good IMO and I had no problems reinstalling the parts. The Model 60 was shooting like it always did.

The Taurus was another story. While it assembled and functioned good it had problems when firing it. The slide was no wanting to go back and eject/feed the next round. I had to take it apart and remove any paint from the sliding surfaces and also around the edge of the barrel by the ramp. I reassembled it then functioned like new.
I am well pleased with this DuraBlue kit that cost around $50. Is it a replacement for a quality rebllue...no but it didn't cost much at all. The paint dries to a really hard shiny surface. I used the dark blue gloss finish. I definitely like the looks of the finished look. IMO both guns look much better now.

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Some love it - - - some do not. To me it looks like a Crossman Pellet Gun so I am not a fan, but they do sell a lot of the stuff so apparently I how I feel doesn't matter a whole lot.

Give us a report when you are finished with your project,I would like to know what you think.

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Hue 68 noli me tangere

Reports I have read about Dura Blue are mixed. I think a lot of the success has to do with proper pre-application preparation and following the directions. Whereas bluing has essentially zero thickness, Dura Coat has some thickness and can cause problems where close tolerances are involved, such as the fit of the slide on the frame. It doesn't have the same appearance as bluing, but it's a lot cheaper. To me, one of the problems is that Dura Coat has a very short shelf life after the can is used. Best to plan on doing multiple guns at once if possible, as you really can't save what you don't use.

Will do, got the Win. model 20 and looking for another rifle to practice on. Want to have two on hand, you have to use that stuff within 48 hours after mixing. I have all the time I need in the winter for the prep.

Just want to take some valueless guns back to life, I'll probably give them away when I'm done to someone that really can't afford a shooter, I'm doing it just for winter entertainment

You thinking of the all in one spray can or the mix it kind? The mix it kind you need spray equipment and might as well go with Cerama Coat

For a cheapo rife, I have use several cans/colors of Brownells AlumaHyde II. It is easy to apply, air dries and is very tough.

You can speed the drying up with a regular hair drier. I put small parts in a old toaster oven. (do not use the house oven!)

No it it is not Dura Coat or Cerma Coat but goes on like regular spray paint. It is pretty tough stuff.And easy to touch up if , when you need to,

TIP: Buy the extras set of spray nozzles (clean out and regular ones) well worth the few bucks, Saves frustration if you get a clog.

Shake the heck out of it and prep work, like all painting is essential!! Sand it. bead blast it whatever. The better the prep the better the finish.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Dura Coat has that new can with in a can epoxy with no spray equipment needed, I'm still checking stuff out (The new Dura Coat epoxy ) is starting to be my choice, but still checking other products out.
Thanks for the input

Gonna still search for a couple rifles. just picked up that Win. Model 20 tonight with two barrels , bought it unseen and was told it was not in good condition. It was just dirty from sitting and cleaned up like new, I know the Model 20 has no value, but I just can't do this to a nice gun. Have to go look at a couple 22 bolts Sunday. Still gonna do this but just can't bring myself to alter a nice gun. (I paid $50. for the Winchester)
Gonna be a long winter here anyhow, I have the time and will update how I'm doing but still open for suggestions

Does anyone know if these coatings can be applied to a wood stock???
JIM....................

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SWCA # L-1911

Yes, I mentioned that.

Once it is mixed you need to use it all as it will harden in the can, So it's not real economical Unless you plan on spraying several items.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Directions say yes...

1) Prep is the most important step in using any of these coatings, in my limited experience.

2) Cerakote is a better-looking, and more durable, than any other aftermarket application I've ever used.

3) See #1

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- Post No Bills -

I used it on a old Walther P-38 I had pieced together and it came out great You just need to follow the directions. They also make a product called Dura Bake where You bake it in the Oven and make the Wife mad but I hear it works even better as it leaves a tougher finish.