Stove pipe sealing on a metal barn

Jessie

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I’m putting a wood stove in my metal barn and want to go thru the wall with a thimble. What’s the best way to seal it against the ridges in the metal wall?
 
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I’m putting a wood stove in my metal barn and want to go thru the wall with a thimble. What’s the best way to seal it against the ridges in the metal wall?

I am sorry I cannot assist you. Wood stoves are not needed in my neck of the woods.;)

And, as a die hard shooter, when you mentioned "stove pipes". There was no "wood stove" on my mind.:p
 
I would cut a piece of your metal siding and match the contour of the ridges. Options I had was to use a double walled pipe, or cut a larger hole and fill the gap with a ring. The ring won't work so good against your corrugated siding so take a piece of the siding to match the ridges and cut a piece oversize the hole and screw into place.
 
Forgot to mention that it is an insulated double walled pipe going through the wall.
I want to keep any water out.
 
There should be a flange available to fit your double walled stove pipe. If you can not locate one, any HVAC shop that does metal ductwork, or any metal shop, can quickly make one.
 
There are pipe flashings made specifically for corrugated steel penetrations. Just have to do some searching.
 
The County may want/need to inspect the job, may void your insurance if not done correctly.
 
Make a nice neat hole using the thimble as a template then get some fire rated fire caulk from your local hardware store.

The thimble should have a collar so any caulk should not be seen.

Just a note: This caulk is always RED! I had a man caulking a firewall in an apartment building, and the caulk he used was black/dark grey. I read the tube and it said "Fire Place Caulk". Turns out it was a fire brick repair grout, and would not adhere to wood, drywall or sheet metal.

When I installed my wood stove in 1984 I went through old Asbestos siding on the house. There was a plate of 22 gauge sheet metal that fit the thimble in the center and I shaped it to fit the laps in my siding. The brand of stainless flu I used was Metalbestos (in 1984) and Metalbestod II (in 1996). This is double walled and filled. The second product, the fill looked like Rock Wool. These were factory sealed for each segment on both ends and water penetration was never an issue with the flu or the wall. The segments twist locked together plus there was a band clamp at each joint.

A former B-I-L's kid brother used 8" thick wall pipe for his flu. He didn't use a brush to sweep his chimney, He used a 12 gauge with #4 Birdshot to blast the creosote out!

I always used a brush, but like him, I set it up to cleaned from the ground. I started the heating season with a clean flu, but by mid-February it needed it bad! In Ohio we have a January thaw (usually between the 15th and 25th) and tried to clean when everything had cooled off (You only clean a hot flu once, that's enough for several lifetimes!)

Ivan
 
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Double wall is rated 1" from any combustible. I hate to vent a wood stove through a wall as cooling can cause issues and prefer to go straight up with no bends. If I had to go horizontal I would get at least 6" direct rise before turning and seal with silicone caulk and a thimble.
 
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