Fixing a presentation case

Joined
Feb 23, 2008
Messages
22,509
Reaction score
16,170
Location
Florida
I have a super nice wood presentation case, the interior flocking is 99% good.

The problem is the lower part that holds the gun is molded plastic and has split/cracked in the area of where the rear sight would be.

So, how to repair the plastic and if repaired, I guess the whole thing would need to be reflocked to match which seems like a waste. My Wife and I can do the flocking, that's not an issue. Just strong tape and apply adhesive over it??

Can flocking be applied over existing flock after a barrier coat of latex pint is applied??

I don't want to get involved and make it worse!

When the gun is in the case the split is not visible, so is it even worth fixing?

Thanks
 
Register to hide this ad
Get a liquid solvent glue for plastics, the kind used for model airplanes that comes in a bottle with an applicator cap, plus some thin plastic sheet stock should work to reinforce the shell from the underside, and a slender artist's brush to apply the glue.
Hobby stores carry them, the plastic comes in thickness from .005" to ~1/8". I'd say use the .005 or .010 thickness.
Just a moment...
Just a moment...
Just a moment... use the long slender one or one like it.

Test the glue on the back of the shell to see if the liquid glue softens the shell. If it does, it's going to be able to glue the shell. Some plastics are not compatible, but I suspect it will work well on this shell, because most molded plastics respond to this glue.
You can cut the sheet into appropriate size reinforcing patch with scissors or an Exacto knife, and apply the glue with a slender modeler/artist brush.
First, wick glue into the crack by capillary action, then once dry in a few minutes, repeat with the sheet plastic reinforcing strip in place over the crack. Do not use the brush that comes in the glue cap. It is too coarse and large and glue applied with it will be too much, uncontrollable, and probably wick through the crack and stain your flocking/velvet, what ever that pretty blue stuff is.
Go slow, and you should be OK.
Picking up Vtgw938's suggestion below, save a few bucks and cut up a plastic milk jug.
 
Last edited:
I have fixed some with a two part epoxy and even a hot glue gun, with or without a piece of plastic off a milk jug or such of the the right shape. I have not done this to a flocked insert that I planned to keep as is, but you should be able to do this on the underside.

I also have used spray foam to fill the cavity of the insert to give it strength and durability. If you try this, just spray it in and let it cure with the underside up so it can expand out. Don't weight the insert down to force the foam into the insert as it will bulge the plastic. After it has cured, cut the foam flat with your wife's bread knife or if you have an electric knife that will work. If your fussy, you can sand it flat and fill in any holes if you wish.
 
I sent mine to one of our members...

JCElect


He is THE MAN when it comes to restoring a case.


attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 7B67DB18-2A9B-4CE9-B8EF-F598FB0A3F79.jpeg
    7B67DB18-2A9B-4CE9-B8EF-F598FB0A3F79.jpeg
    207.9 KB · Views: 127
Last edited:
Get a liquid solvent glue for plastics, the kind used for model airplanes that comes in a bottle with an applicator cap, plus some thin plastic sheet stock should work to reinforce the shell from the underside, and a slender artist's brush to apply the glue.
Hobby stores carry them, the plastic comes in thickness from .005" to ~1/8". I'd say use the .005 or .010 thickness.
Just a moment...
Just a moment...
Just a moment... use the long slender one or one like it.

Test the glue on the back of the shell to see if the liquid glue softens the shell. If it does, it's going to be able to glue the shell. Some plastics are not compatible, but I suspect it will work well on this shell, because most molded plastics respond to this glue.
You can cut the sheet into appropriate size reinforcing patch with scissors or an Exacto knife, and apply the glue with a slender modeler/artist brush.
First, wick glue into the crack by capillary action, then once dry in a few minutes, repeat with the sheet plastic reinforcing strip in place over the crack. Do not use the brush that comes in the glue cap. It is too coarse and large and glue applied with it will be too much, uncontrollable, and probably wick through the crack and stain your flocking/velvet, what ever that pretty blue stuff is.
Go slow, and you should be OK.
Picking up Vtgw938's suggestion below, save a few bucks and cut up a plastic milk jug.


Thank you for the information. Here is picture to better illustrate the problem


Now if I do the repair to the plastic. can I apply new flocking over the old? Would I need to use the paint layer, then the cement then puff on the flock?
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1069 (Large).jpg
    DSCF1069 (Large).jpg
    146.1 KB · Views: 48
Last edited:
Thank you for the information. Here is picture to better illustrate the problem
Now if I do the repair to the plastic. can I apply new flocking over the old? Would I need to use the paint layer, then the cement then puff on the flock?

I'd be sure to repair the plastic from the back side of the shell, but
I don't know anything about flocking. Look up forum member JCElect (he da MAN for case repair) as poster above WardenRoss advises.
 
Last edited:
Rule3, Last one I fixed, I used Flexseal on the underneath of the crack, then re-flocked the inside. If you have a large hole, put some masking tape on the inside for a backer.
Larry
 
Rule3, Last one I fixed, I used Flexseal on the underneath of the crack, then re-flocked the inside. If you have a large hole, put some masking tape on the inside for a backer.
Larry




Like the Guy on TV!!:)That might just be it! Maybe the tape??
 
Last edited:
Rule3, Last one I fixed, I used Flexseal on the underneath of the crack, then re-flocked the inside. If you have a large hole, put some masking tape on the inside for a backer.
Larry

I carefully tape/hot glue the cracks and splits in the back side. Then I use flex seal (black stuff in the can) to completely cover the backside. Don’t use the flexseal spray as it has solvents that will melt the plastic. Completely covering the backside with flexseal will prevent more cracks in the future.
 
Back
Top