I started to put this in the Smithing section,, then I figured here might be better.

Our home was built in 1977-1979 time-frame.

The windows, IIRC, are Anderson, wood frames in aluminum tracks.

There is aluminum on the wood window, and another aluminum track in the window opening.

The window, therefore, slides up and down, rubbing aluminum on aluminum.

We have been in this house since 1982,, and I have NEVER found a lube that will keep the windows gliding for more than a month or two.

I have tried every type of silicone spray, even stuff especially designed for RV slide-out extensions.

I have tried 3-IN-ONE oil, synthetic engine oil, WD-40 (of course) ,,,
I have tried several penetrating oils, automatic transmission fluid,,

I have tried paraffin wax, and Johnsons Wax,, (disaster!!)

I have tried Renaissance Wax.

Recently, I have tried every gun lube that I have,, EEZOX, several CLP sprays, Ballistol,,

40 years is a LONG time,, I have had plenty of tries to fix this,,
Typically, I try a "new lube" each year when I clean the windows,,

I can not believe this issue has not come up with some auto-loader handgun,,
Surely, people shoot a handgun more cycles than I open and close windows,,

The lube "failure" seems to be related to the lube evaporating,, that is about how long the windows stay easy to slide up and down,,

So,, Help me out,, what lube could I have possibly overlooked??

Froglube?

Dri-Slide?

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and what his trumpet saith

By your title I thought you had found one. Shucks!

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Endeavor to persevere. <><

Well, the Google says…

ALUMINUM LUBRICANT - Industrial Lubrication Systems from MagLube

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50 Years of Wish You Were Here

I never open my windows, I have air conditioning...My Mom always fixed the wooden household drawers when they got sticky by rubbing a bar of soap along the runners...I have no idea whether it would work on aluminum......Ben

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Cogito, ergo BOOM!...

Might want to try the lube used for garage door rollers and rails.

White Lithium Grease

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SWCA #2306
DAV in honor of POP

It might also be noted that window tracks are subject to airborne dust and dirt from both indoor and outdoor sources, and many lubricants that might last longer in a sealed environment will hold any small debris that hits it which also works its way into the sliding channels...Cleaning these surfaces before applying lube can extend the time intervals between applications......Ben

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Cogito, ergo BOOM!...

Sperm whale oil might work but it's expensive when you add in the cost of a ship, harpoons and wages.

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The best I can with what I got

How do you get the whale to sit still that long?

When all else fails, try Lubriplate. I use Lubriplate Aero on my garage door screw drive. It lasts for years and it does not drip. As Truckman says, clean it first. Good Luck!

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What, me worry?

How about Break Free? I've been using that for decades.

This ^^. As someone (almost) said, "Cleanliness is next to glideliness." True Grit isn't good for sliding surfaces.

A dry film moly lube like Loctite LB 8017 or CRC Dry Moly Film might be an option, but moly is very visible (dark gray) and can be messy.

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"I drank WHAT?" (Socrates)

I have that exact tube in my gun box.....Been using on my guns and choke tubes for years.........With success.

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S&W Accumulator

Buy it from the Russians and the Japanese...still works on guns...but it's just whale oil now

I've used this for Aluminum lubrication and it works fairly well.

L.C. Wax Aluminum Anti-Corrosion Flammable Lubricant and Liquid Maskin | Max Warehouse

I know there were uses for the oil by NASA and they bought it from the Russians or I suppose they did after whaling was disallowed by most of the rest of the world. I think my last 2- 4 ounce bottles are marked Sperm Oil. Worked good on long recoil firearms like Brownings...summer and winter. Used it for charcoal type bluing on small parts too

Sperm oil is used on mechanical components of nuclear weapons, I believe that may be the only legal use for sperm oil in the US these days. Watch and clock oil used to be sperm oil because it adheres well to metals and does not gum up. But it is now some synthetic. Watch and clock oil (the new kind) is also a superb gun oil, and that is what I use. I used to repair clocks and have a good supply of it.

Looking at info on whale oil,, it appears the extreme pressure capabilities of the oil are only exhibited when the oil has sulfur in it.

90WT gear oil has sulfur in it,, rear end gears operate under extreme pressure,,

Hmmmmm,, I might try synthetic gear oil that has sulfur,,

I can't use much,, the sulfur smell is not too appealing,,,

I have tried white lithium,, it does not last.
I have sort of avoided "greases",, hoping to avoid a mess on the window frame.

I have graphite, that has not been tried,,
I also have moly grease,, that is good grease,, but MESSY!!

I would contact Anderson (still in business), and ask someone in their service department what they recommend. My own first inclination would be a bag of Q-Tips, and some Wilson 1911 slide grease, sparingly applied to the tracks mating surfaces.

Larry

I suspect that your problem is aluminum oxidation. You might try Ideal Noalox. This can be had at an electrical supply house, or on Amazon. This is an oxidation inhibitor used on electrical connections. It is thick and messy. I do not know about its' lubrication qualities, but it is slick. I say Ideal Noalox, because other such compounds have an abrasive component such as Burndy Penetrox

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Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

Teflon Silver | All Powder Paints(R)

I'll park this here just in case you can figure out how to use this.
It'll require disassembly, coating, and baking ... A rather involved process.
Once done, it's not going anywhere and will take all the abuse instead of the aluminum.
I've used it on a 1911's frame rails and slide and ran the gun dry.
it resulted in a lube free EDC.
If it can take THAT, it'll solve your problem if you can use it.

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it just needs more voltage

boron nitride powder, burnished into the aluminum? option B might be grey label Liquid Wrench dry lube. PTFE and boron nitride, which is white powder, aka white graphite.

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NRA RSO

Well, heck, I Googled "how to lubricate Anderson Windows"

and their reply popped right up.

"Remove grease or debris with a soft, dry cloth, then lubricate moving parts with a dry silicone spray. Lubricants or harsh abrasive cleaners are not recommended. Wipe down the hardware/component using water, a small amount of soap and a clean, dry cloth to remove any dust or debris.

To lubricate hardware or other moving components including window and patio door lock mechanisms, we recommend using a dry lubricant spray.

Please follow the manufacturer's instructions for use. Dry lubricant spray may be ordered through the Andersen WindowCare® Solution Center, the Andersen® Online Parts Store, or your local hardware store.

To avoid damage to your Andersen® product, it is important to use a dry lubricant that does not contain acetone. "

I am positive that I have tried dry lube before..

That makes sense,, two identical metals rubbing each other is an incredibly incorrect design.
(A better design is something hard rubbing against something soft)

When two identical metals rub, the metal is subject to spalling,,

Spall - Wikipedia

In my case, the aluminum is simply that,, uncoated aluminum.
The aluminum oxidizes (normal for aluminum,,,) then the two oxidized aluminum surfaces are rubbed against each other.

I would equate it to rubbing sandpaper against sandpaper.

It is aluminum oxide against aluminum oxide.
I am sure this is my situation, after a few openings, there is a black coating on the tracks,
ground up aluminum oxide.

The "black" has always been there,, maybe the electrical oxide inhibitor may be the answer,,
but, again, every one of those electrical oxide inhibitors that I have seen is not very "contact friendly" ,,
in other words, you do not want to touch the stuff without rubber gloves,, it is nasty.

The aluminum oxide makes great sandpaper, we all have some,,
hmmmm,, maybe the aluminum oxide is the cause of failure for the lubes that I have tried,,

Lube mixed with aluminum oxide makes a GREAT abrasive!!,,

Try Fluid Film. It has a lanolin base.

Sounds like it's time for new windows.
Aluminum windows either have plastic glides or they rely on the slick anodized surfaces of the metal itself. By now the surface treatment has worn away and the metal is embedded with grit. Applying any type of lube will just attract dust and expose you to chemical fumes.
40 years is well beyond the service life of those windows.