Have been thinking of replacing my old cables with a new set. They sure have gone up in price... Some say that CCA are junk and only pure copper are worth buying. Anyone want to wade in on this? Not going to be used in -35 temps. to start a Mack truck (Mine is a Ford Ranger although the times I've used mine have usually been for other people's vehicles.) I can get 16', 4 ga copper rated for 400A for about $80 (~58 USD) locally. OTOH I can get heavier, 25' CCA for about the same price.

__________________
"I drank WHAT?" (Socrates)

Do you need 25' cables?

I needed some that long for my dump trailer when the trailer battery gets low. A jump it off the F250.

I needed something that would carry a heavy draw without voltage drop, so I made some from cable and clamps I found at my local welding supply.

I've never had any made from CCA, but my initial thought would be copper.

I have had several sets,,
including an accidental set of CCA,,

The CCA was the first set of jumper cables I ever had that failed.
THAT is when I discovered they were CCA,,

They were scrapped,,

I DO have a set that will jump a MACK,,
I built them out of welding cable, in the late 1980's.

At that time, you could buy solid copper clamps,, so I also used them,,

I can jump start my 584 IH tractor even with the battery removed from the tractor!!

OK, copper it is

__________________
"I drank WHAT?" (Socrates)

25 foot can be handy if you ever need to jump a vehicle from the rear, but that is pretty rare. Stranded copper used in welding cables make the best jumper cables as they maintain flexible even in cold weather but are expensive and unless you make your own, hard to find.

As a side note, I stopped carrying my cables in favor of a battery jumper 'box' that I carry under the rear seat. I charge it every couple months to make sure it is fully charged. It takes up much less space and can be used for multiple other purposes such as flashlight or to charge other devices like phones.

__________________
So many S&W's, so few funds!!

I don’t know about types of cables but I do believe that the 25’ versions are worth the extra space
Murphy will often put the battery on the opposite side that you need it to be on and as said you can jump from behind which is pretty handy

__________________
the rules? there are no rules

I have several 25'+ sets. I have 2 sets that I made from a piece of 4 conductor SO 6 AWG wire I found in a scrap yard. The positive and negative each use 2 of the conductors. I also have connectors on each end of my truck that are similar to welding machine connectors just slightly smaller.

I have conventional 25' sets in both my cars. My side by side has a 2 prong connector and a 15 foot set with an matching 2 prong connector and regular clamps on the other end. I have a similar 2 prong connector on my camp trailer batteries and a set of cables that plug and connect it to other batteries.

Any welding supply will hook you up with 50' of 2 AWG, but it will probably run you close to $150. Amazon has 25" of red and black for $115. You could get a 250' spool for around $500, Make up several sets Most rig welders run 125'; of 1 AWG or 0/1 lead and ground

Another thing, it is not just the wire, but the clamps and how the wire connects to the clamp.

When you live in cold country, its best to be ready. At -30 even a brand new batteries can struggle even with 5-40 motor oil. My Lincolns usually fire right up my Power stroke not so much unless its plugged in. LOL

Copper wielding lead ,accept no substitute.
And top quality clamps.
If you need them they are worth the money.
Check scrap yards ,safety regulations takes
Industrial wielding leads out of service.

I have some cheap set I bought at an auto parts store. Probably CCA. I rarely use them, mostly to jump some neighbor's car or a friend who refuses to replace a dying battery. The cables work every time and are worth every penny I paid for them, which wasn't many. If I ran a tow truck or was on call for some insurance vehicle response policy, I'd opt for the copper cables. But for a set that rides around in the truck 99.999999999% of the time "just in case," CCA works at a decent price.

Why don’t you make life easier and buy a jump box?
Doesn’t require another host vehicle and stores much easier!

Edit: I see someone beat me to it!

THIS.
I bought a NOCO jumper box for every member of my family. I use mine to jump the battery on my boat among other things.
BTW what are CCA cables. Nevermind-I looked it up

__________________
Forum consigliere

Copper Coated Aluminum .

I STILL have a set of Jumper Cables my Dad made out of welding cable in the 1960's. I believe they are 12-13 feet in length but since they are so heavy in gauge size, that is not an issue at all. They have great heavy duty battery terminal clamps and still work like a charm. Due to their heavy gauge they are a bit larger and bulkier to store in the trunk area (not as flexible due to their gauge) than cheaper, less flexible store bought ones, but they never fail to work, The long length makes them a pleasure to use when needed.

I usually use them to help people out. I replace my own batteries at the very first sign of them weakening. Batteries never get better - only worse.

I do not like CCA wire and would never but it. Buy once, cry once. Jumper cables last a lifetime!

Copper Clad Aluminum.

__________________
Waiting For The Sun.

You don't have recharge jumper cables..........

__________________
S&W Accumulator

I'd forgotten about those. Even the small NOCO looks like it packs a fair bit of power.

True, but also true of your cell phone. flashlight, etc. Apparently the jumper box only need to be recharged avery couple of months.

__________________
"I drank WHAT?" (Socrates)

EXACTLY! Something you have to remember to charge every so often is always uncharged when you need it the most. Jumper Cables are ALWAYS ready to go.

I was also reading an article on jumper boxes andunder "Making your booster pack last" they recommended that they not be stored fully charged. (Also to store them indoors in really cold weather.)

...Remember how your new smartphone came with a half-charged battery? There’s a reason for that.

Many booster packs can store a charge for a year before they need plugging in, though most can be recharged from empty in just a few hours when required. Be aware that many batteries (and especially the lithium-ion battery packs commonly used in jump-starters) will experience a longer lifespan if users avoid storage with a full or empty battery.

If you won’t be using your booster pack or jump starter for an extended period, take steps to store it with a charge level around half, and it’ll repay you with a longer and more reliable life. When it’s time to bring your booster pack back into action, just plug it in for a recharge the night before...

So ideally there is some discipline involved. I think I may just get cables, though. Have rarely needed them and they always work.

__________________
"I drank WHAT?" (Socrates)

But if you are the one that needs the jump and there is no one around to provide the full battery then jumper cables are useless. I charge the little jumper batteries that I keep in my car and the van with every season change. Easy to remember.

I have 3 pairs of jumper cables and can't remember the last time I used them.

Go all copper. CCA has 50-60% higher resistance, =>more voltage drop, so where you gain length for weight using CCA, you lose volts, and you're only starting with ~13V.
I've had a couple sets of 2 ga copper, 20' long Sears jumpers for ~50 years, and even though they're heavy, they work every time and can reach back to front when cars and batteries have a less than ideal location. They were expensive, but they've bailed me and others out so many times, they've paid their way.

Why not have both?

When I worked at a car lot jumper boxes were the easiest fastest way to get going.

I keep both, because, you never know.

I don't like jumping newer cars, though. Especially if there's arching. Too many sensitive electronic bits...

__________________
Thread Killer.

I'm one of the odd balls that still uses 6Volts, granted it is in my '29 Model A. One thing I learned is with 6Volts you want the heaviest cable possible, I got my hands on a roll of welding cable a couple years ago and have used that on a few 6 Volt projects, it is very heavy and difficult to bend around some areas. The heavier the cable the less drop in amperage, the reason you can rewire a 6Volt vehicle to 12Volts but not the other way around. Some of the worst electrical burns I ever got were with 6volt, I have welded screwdriver tips to loose connections.
This picture is an older shot of a past project car, notice the heavy cables.

I have a set of cables in both of my vehicles . I think a Noco type of jump box would be an ideal thing for your wife or daughter to have access to if the man of the house isn't around .

Yea but you ALWAYS need another vehicle with a battery that works. Those NOCO's will last a long time and give at least one good jump if they are on the way out. I have used them a good bit and recommend them heartily. Especially for daughters and wives.

__________________
Forum consigliere

I'll never use jumper cables again.

NOCO!

Whatever the AAA guy brings with him

The "Jumper Boxes" are certainly convenient - I will agree on that. The main issue I have with them is they need to constantly be maintained. There are some that are prudent enough to always do that, but many would forget. Some can't even remember to fill their car with gasoline! How many people are driving around with flashlights with dead batteries in them and spare tires that are all but deflated?

I guess in a perfect world, the best way to go would be to carry both items and have the cables as a back up if you want the convenience of the jumper box as a primary method of starting a car with a dead battery. A set of cables will last a few lifetimes and requires no maintenance at all, so IMHO it would still pay to have the cables for a sure fired way of jumping even if one forgets to charge the box.

As far as no one being around when you need a jump, well I suppose that is a possibility in a very rural area but at 70 years old now I have never experienced that. Maybe slightly more difficult to find a good samaritan to help at odd hours of the night, but there is usually always someone around. Again, to have both onboard is not a "break the bank" situation.

The first thing I gave my Kids when they started driving their own cars was a good set of high quality jumper cables and a well stocked tool box full of useful basic tools along with road flares or triangles. Even if they are incapable of diagnosing and repairing a problem on the road, there might be someone who can help as long as tools were available.

I also carry a Safety Seal brand tire plug kit and a really powerful Viair brand portable air compressor. Over the last 3 years I have repaired no less than a dozen flats for myself, my wife, friends and neighbors. Many times a tire can be fixed right on the vehicle without even removing it - depending on the location of the nail or screw. Who wants to wait long periods of time for a tow truck or tire repair truck to come and assist? Not me!

I suppose one can say, OK - just put the spare tire on. Well, many cars today do not come with a spare! Plus the fact that if you are on a road trip, the small donut spares are usually only capable up to 50 mph for about 50 miles or so. Once a tire is plugged properly, the plug will last the life of the tire with no speed restriction. Over all the years I have been driving (54) I have never seen a properly plugged tire fail!

There are several 'maintenance' items I have to perform: give dog his flea & tick meds, change the whole house water filter, charge my jumper box, etc., and my memory is terrible. However I have an app on my phone that reminds me to perform all these tasks at the correct date/time. It works great is used also for medical appointments and the like. If people have memory issues, I highly recommend getting one of these apps!

__________________
So many S&W's, so few funds!!

I read an article about lithium batteries,,
(which are typically in these "JUMP-PACKS")

It stated that the longest shelf life for a lithium battery is at less than full charge.

That is why the battery you purchase is not fully charged,,
full charge will decrease the life of the battery.

So, the next time your jump-pack is at 80% (or whatever) charge,,
consider leaving it, rather than charging it,,,

(Typically, 80% or 100% will have little difference in starting capability)

I carry my AAA card for backup.

__________________
I’m your Boogie Man, uh huh.

NAHHHH, your P365 is your back up - - the AAA card is for saving your back. LOL!

Some jumper boxes, say they will hold a charge for 2 yrs.
Prob w/perfect weather, maybe ?

Going to purchase one w/air pump.

I left the key on with my lawn tractor. Battery was DEAD next time I needed it. So dead the charger wouldn't read it and wouldn't charge. So I hooked my old CCA cables to it and the truck long enough to get some juice in it, and then the charge would charge it. Copper wires wouldn't have made any difference in my case. Maybe if my tractor was an old 24V system with a bad starter.

I had a 51 ford (6v) as a kid . Jump started it one morning from dads truck (12v) There was smoke 😱

Yeah I think any of us old enough to have driven 6volt vehicles have learned about the smoke. I learned from old timers that showed me to use 12volts to jump but only at the starter or relay and make it quick, no attaching cables. I never cared for converting my flathead Fords to 12volts because I did not like the way the starter banged into the flywheel, sure they cranked over and started better but more than one of them I knew of had to replace the starter due to busted shaft or gear engagement. You can see I have those Optimas wired for double the CCA's, with a little over 1300CCA that is plenty for the old high compression Flathead. I just run one on my '29 A-Bone, plenty good. Conversion to an alternator ensure proper charging, even in city traffic, even Henry would have to agree.

I have a set that I made 45 years ago. They are 12', and # 1 welding cable. The connectors on the ends are Thomas and Betts ( T&B ) compression connectors for welding size 1 cable. They are bolted to Mueller 200A solid copper clamps. I have no idea what this setup would cost today, but I know I will never need another set. All my stuff came from an electrical supply house and being an electrical contractor the price was right at the time. I also had the tools to crimp compression lugs.

A real good supply house will have a tool to loan you and you could make them up in the parking lot.

Careful not to splay the copper strands when stripping the insulation. Lugs for welding cable are slightly oversized for the enlarged circumference of welding cables

__________________
Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

Old faithful.

__________________
Music/Sports/Beer fan

...but connections, especially in consumer goods is AWFUL. Wires also break. Now I can't say, copper wires/connections never fail, but I just threw away a pair of copper jumper cables that were probably 40+ years old and were cheapos when I bought them. I have several other pairs in cars, so I didn't try to repair the connection, though it woudn't have been difficult. I've also got a couple of batttery chargers and a battery jumper, so I suppose I'm covered. Anything much more complicated than that goes to the shop nowadays.

__________________
"He was kinda funny lookin'"

My last familiarity with the abbreviation CCA was Chromated Copper Arsenate, as used in the treatment of utility poles.

Post #12 clarified the OP's use of CCA as Copper Coated Aluminum.

Yup, Copper is the better choice over Aluminum (even plated) for this purpose any day.

__________________
S&WCA #1955, S&WHF #818

Picked up a set of PIco 8164, 6ga/400A, 12' all copper today. Should be good enough for my purposes

__________________
"I drank WHAT?" (Socrates)