Next spring I’ll be looking to build a 600sq ft (maybe a little bigger or smaller) shop on property my wife and I bought in WVa. I will only be used as my shop and gathering place for hunts. Our home will have a three car garage for vehicles and storage. I had been thinking all along pole barn with 10’ walls. But I’ve recently been looking at these metal buildings with metal frames. Either way it will have a concrete floor. This type of building I assume would be built on top of the slab like a stick built building. Some I’m wondering if anyone has experience with these types of buildings. Construction looks similar to the little carports you see in driveways. Which I’ve always thought were cheap looking. If I’m being honest, cost is a consideration. So I’m examining all options.

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We put up a 30x50' RV "carport" over the summer. We went through a local dealer, but the parent company is "American Steel Carports, Inc", and I believe they're nationwide.

Ours went up on gravel, but if you're doing a building, you'll probably want to put it on a slab.

Check your local ordinances/codes... I originally wanted a 3 sided structure, but that made it a "building" in our county, which tripled the permit costs, and kicked in all kinds of code that would have increased building costs. I compromised with a "half-height" rear wall that extends from the roof to ~5ft off the ground to prevent reaching the 'building' threshold.

My primary purpose was to get our RV under cover to mitigate deterioration due to AZ sun and weather, and it accomplished that goal at a cost I was willing to pay.

End result:






While our overall experience has been good, this was disappointing:



Also disappointing was the work crew that showed up to install didn't speak a word of English. Usually, at least the jefe hablas enough to communicate, but not this crew... Caused a few issues during installation that required calls to the company, who then called the crew to straighten them out. The other issue was they showed up a day and a half late, so they finished after dark on a Friday. Not ideal for inspecting their work and signing off...

ETA: whatever you decide you need... build it BIGGER. You can thank me later...

Rodan, that’s the same type of framework I’m considering. Sounds like you’re happy with the product just not the crew. What holds that in place? Is it staked in ground or just the weight ?

Our carport has 18 mobile home anchors (large auger type screws) that are driven into the ground and then bolted to the structure. IIRC the wind rating is something like 112mph.

Here's some pictures of ours. When we had the smaller shop put in over 20+ years ago they claimed it was rated for 120mph winds, and it has survived several Hurricanes all the way back past Charley, Francis and Jeanne in 2004 where the max winds at our house were 105 mph (from Charley). The larger shelter is 4 years old and rated for 100+ mph winds and held up perfectly through Milton just a few days ago as well as some lesser storms since it was erected.

We have since spread about 5-6 cu. yds. of crushed concrete under the RV shelter.

Needless to say, I am convinced!

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had a 30'x30' RV car port built on a concrete slab. The contractor used wooden support sunk into the concrete for the roof which is metal. I think the wooden supports are like 8"x8" or 6"x6" I was told it was rated for 125mph wind

Here's a picture of them building it and completion

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I started off wanting a small pole building or metal frame building put up for storing a tractor, trailer, splitter, firewood, SXS, etc. and was debating gravel or concrete floor. By the time I upgraded the metal frame building the way I wanted it with the metal run vertically, heavier gauge metal frame and panels, painted screws, 1' overhangs on sides, 5' over the front, etc., I was more than a pole building.

When clearing the area of stumps and removing top soil I ran into a *lot* of rock so setting poles or even drilling through it to sink mobil home anchors for a metal frame would be very difficult and expensive. So I decided to bring in stone to make a pad, pour a slab and build on that. LOL that was very expensive too!

Talking to an Amish man who puts these buildings up, he said it'd be about the same cost to frame the walls as to anchor brackets and set poles on the concrete, plus the building's weight on the concrete would be evenly spread on the wall plates rather than on poles. So that's the way I'm going.

The slab was just poured and the crew is planning on coming early November to put it up. It'll be 36' wide by 26' deep and 10' high, with two garage doors, a passage door, and 5 windows. 2 x 6 walls on 24" centers, metal roofing and walls with bubble insulation to prevent condensation.

I'm getting into more money than I originally planned but it'll be a nicer more substantial building that someone after me could insulate and finish if they wanted. I don't know how you'd insulate and finish one of those metal frame structures without framing up walls inside the steel structure? By that time I would think you would have as much or more in the metal frame structure.

RIDEWV, thanks for input. Another forum member turned me onto a website that lets you spec out building and gives you a price delivered and erected on your pad. I’m looking at a 22x30. I’ll compare that to pole buildings and even a stick built garage. As for finishing off the interior of a metal frame building, it’s easy. You simply use self tapping screws. Every condo in Florida has been built with metal studs for the last couple decades.

Milton (Its tornadoes) flattened the St. Lucie county sheriff's department vehicle storage build, made from steel beams. That was before Milton ever reached landfall.

You're welcome. I played around with this site: 3D Garage Builder & Carport Builder


How to you insulate the cold radiating directly through the metal siding and framework, to the inside? There would have to be a thermal break.

They insulate it with what looks like vapor barrier and foam sheets between wall frame and siding. I didn’t pay to close attention to that because I’m not insulating mine. It won’t be a huge structure. I’ll have windows for ventilation and a propane torpedo heater if I need to take the chill off for a project.

I see.
I am concerned about condensation in an uninsulated metal building, especially the roof where it can literally drip inside. If you're not insulating they offer a coating that is applied to the metal that stops condensation, you might at least use that for the roof.
I decided to let them insulate the roof and walls with bubble which will reduce the worst of the bitter cold as well as summer heat with the sun on it.

Just finalized everything with the builder and gave him sketches this morning when came over to measure the slab and check the site. So hopefully it comes out like this. He said they'll be here in two weeks and it'll take them 4-5 days to complete.

I built a stick frame garage 10 years ago and thought about a smaller 22 x 22, but fortunately my contractor suggested a 24 x 24 and I am very happy he did. Roomy with no problems parking vehicles and not worrying about door dings. When built, I had 2 cars and equipment in it. Now have no cars in that garage, but it is almost full of equipment and trailers. Never insulated it since I have other workshops. The extra space was well worth the money spent. Depending on where you are in New York state, snow load can be an issue. Find out what the live load limits are for the roof of your structure. Typical wood frame structures where we live are designed for 50 pounds per square foot.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

That's a nice looking garage and beautiful setting, glow!

Bald1 is relocating to southern WV which is where the building will be, so much less snow load than in NY.

And I can’t wait to relocate…. Just got off phone with a local dealer in Lewisburg WVa. Not sure I’ll buy from them but gained a lot of info. I pretty sure I’ll end up going 22x30. I may put a lean to on side for my tractor implements. It will just be gravel under there.

Those custom build sites are nice. I used one to build an 8'x8' storage shed and it came out perfect They let you put in windows, vents, roof type, door type, electrical...etc...The only downside is they take about 6 weeks at a minimum, so there is a wait.

Here's a pic of the shed. It matches my RV car port, white with black trim

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Do you have a tractor yet? What about a SXS?

Drive around your new neighborhood and see what they have. Go to the local Feed and Seed store and ask a few questions. Start by being a good neighbor and you will be surprised on what you find out.

Yes. I have a compact 4x4 Kubota with front loader, brush hog, box scraper and 6’ straight blade. It also has a 54” belly mower. My SxS is a Polaris Ranger. Also have a Kawasaki ATV. It would be nice to keep implements out of weather without taking up floor space. That’s why I was thinking lean to. My 18’ tandem trailer can sit outside.

When I built my 40 X 60 metal building I decided to go all out and do all steel with overhangs on both sides. Yep, it cost more, but it has been maintenance free and leak free. It is well insulated and I have never seen the temp get to freezing inside even though it's not heated. When it gets down in the single digits I just put a kerosene heater in the middle set on low and it keeps any liquids from freezing.

I have double sliding doors on the front and a single drum rollup door on the rear and a man door on the side. Theoretically I could drive in the front and out the back though I never do. Having both front and rear doors open does provide great ventilation in the summer. The side overhangs are great too and allow me to park vehicles or store equipment outside but in the dry.

Shop buildings are like garages and gun vaults, you can't ever get one too big.

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Faulkner, that is a beauty. and WAY MORE $ than I’m planning to spend lol. Although I have to say, my wonderful wife keeps telling me not to cheap out and build what I want. That could get me in trouble. If I were building one at my current home I’d build a 26x52 identical to my neighbors. But this is in addition to building our dream retirement home. So I’ll rein it in a bit. The fact that the house will have a 24x32 garage helps.

As a side note. This is kinda funny. The listing agent said there were 3 out buildings on the property. He referred to one as a pole barn. You can see a small hog pen in front of it in second pic. I will eventually tear these down. But there is a 10x14 grain house close to the road that I will keep. It’s not usable but it just looks right by the side of the road.

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We built a garage outbuilding 32 x 40 approx. Poured cement floor...we put down pex in the floor continuous run with a circulator pump...In the winter I turn on a 6 gallon water heater and it keeps from freezing temps. Keeps it bout 40 when it is 20 below. Whole thing is insulated 2 garage doors 2 entrance doors. Whatever you build go bigger than you think you want. Metal buildings are good but in cold country make sure the place is insulated. I am looking for a 20 gal water heater for the garage...I also have a pellet stove for when I'm out there loading

Perfect you're good to go!


Bald1 I'm with you about wanting to keep implements under cover, which is one of the purposes of my project.
Faulkner that's an awesome building and I like how you concreted it and all around!

Although I don't have that awesome (14'?) overhang like Faulkner I always try to take advantage of overhangs and carports.
This out-building I'm doing now will have 6' overhangs on the front and back. The front will be over the garage and passage doors and a couple chairs. Under the rear overhang is where I will set front attachments like buckets, grapple, tree puller, shielded from the wind by the building and most any rain, snow and sun by the overhang.

My other shop building incorporates a 6' overhang 38' wide as well as an 18' x 28' carport. The little garage utilizes a 6' x 24' overhang and 12' x 24' carport.

I just ordered (2) 9 x 8 garage doors (rather than roll up ones) today for it, not insulated and not electric opening. The same doors insulated were over $200 more, each. I'll adhere 1/2" foamboard to the panels myself just to prevent condensation.

The last shed I built for myself was stick built. Twelve foot walls with the ceiling joists at 8'. A drop down attic stair case to access the upper storage area. It's very accessible with the 4' of outer walls.

My next storage building will also be stick built, bigger and a true 2 story with stairs- 10' walls on lower section, 8' on the upper. It's cheap square footage- one roof, one pad, twice the floor space.

I like being able to drive a nail in the walls whether to hang something or build shelving, etc.

Bald1, mine is the style you have in the original post. I had a 20 x40 wood frame work shop that had a shelter on one side but hurricane Matthew dropped a tree on it in 2016. Thankfully insurance paid a very nice claim. I was able to demo the frame and save the concrete. I ended up getting Mayberry Metal Buildings to install a 20 x40 on the slab with 12' walls and had a 10x12 garage door installed. I'm in construction and had a good bit of 1/2" OSB donated by a superintendent for the interior walls, which I insulated before installing. I'll say I wish it was 30 x60.

I intend to get quotes three ways. Pole,Stick and metal. Back in 2000 at my previous house I had a 24x24 garage stick built. It was on a slope so pad was more like a foundation. LOTS of concrete. Siding overhangs doors windows all matched the house. It was $10k. I’m guessing that building today is easily over $20K

I'm going to wholeheartedly agree with several folks here in saying that you cannot get a structure big enough. I firmly believe that twice what you originally think you need will be less than half what you will eventually want!

You're probably right, but at some point you have to say this is enough and I need to live with what I have. And he's planning for a 3-car garage.

OTOH it doesn't cost much to make the building a little bigger compared to adding to it later, or building another one like I'm doing now.

It's amazing how stuff accumulates over time, especially if you live on some acreage. Things like implements, trailer, boat, motorcycle, lawn cart and tools, hobby car, woodworking equipment and lumber, etc. Another thing I ran a little short of is covered places for firewood. I have it stacked between the uprights on a carport and back porch right near where the wood stove is but that total will only last one season and half the next. I'd like at least 2 seasons dried and another that's drying.

Bald1, I'm sure you and your wife are having fun planning your house, storage building, and what all you'll be doing on the property.

That there is a West, By God, Virginia condo!

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

This^^^^^^^^^Gotta know when to say when. Yes it’s easy to say go bigger you won’t regret it. You’re gonna need it blah blah. But scratching the check to pay for it is an entirely different matter. I’ve made up my mind on the 22x30. I suppose it could bump out a little after I see the numbers. My question was more about what kind of construction guys here have or are familiar with. And are they happy with it.

This where that second story makes a HUGE difference. You double the storage space for a fraction of the cost (provided your knees can handle it).

For what it's worth, which is nothing, I used to own a Morton Building. Wood frame, metal skin and roof. I did not spend the little extra for insulation and regretted it every day I owned that building. Oven in the summer, ice box in the winter, condensation on the inside. If it's just dry storage no big deal, but I also used it as a shop and regretted not insulating as part of the build.
Check out Versatube, I have been toying with the idea of building one. They have an interactive website where you can customize it, design by local wind and snow load, add doors, windows, custom colors, size, height, etc., and see the cost for the kit in real time. Comes as a kit and you have to build it yourself...so that might not work for you.

Back in in 1977 I bought some uninproved property to build a new house. I planned the barn out on cross hatch paper trying to think of everything I would store there. I decided on 32'X45'. My wife said why do you need it that big? I told her so I could store my camper. She told me, you don't have a camper. I told her, not yet.

I also built the barn before I built the house. She asked why. I told her because if we built the house first we would run out of money and wouldn't have a barn.

It had 12' side walls, a 15' split sliding door on the front, a 10' on the side and a walk in. The only thing I would have done different would have been to add a rear slider so you could drive straight through.

In 1977 it cost the princely sum of $7,000.00.

My have things gone up. I just spent that amount for the floor; concrete, wire, rebar, and plastic (doesn't include finishing).

Yeah I’ve got numbers over $7k for concrete pad not including any excavation. My cousin runs heavy equipment for a living and will handle that for me.

I discovered their sight yesterday. I don’t think the kit idea will work because I’m almost 8 hrs away. I could probably hire someone to assemble but it wouldn’t be ideal.

I paid $6K for my 30'x30' concrete slab.in southern Tennessee

A friend in VA bought one of those metal sheds like you're considering from some vendor on line. It is about 12-14' wide and 20'-25' deep. It's basic with one window, a passage door and 8' roll up door, set on a gravel base. The roof has some kind of thin barrier underneath to prevent it from "raining" in humid weather, but nothing on the walls.
Two guys showed up from NC to put it up and he was very pleased with their work. They got it done in two days and he said it'd have probably taken him 2 weeks!


Unfortunately I have more than that in my 26' x 36'. But it took 28.25 yards since the slab is 8" thick plus a thickened edge. Used 4,000 psi with fiber, heavy wire and a couple rows of rebar around the perimeter. Actually that also includes a 6' x 36' apron 5" thick as well.

I have found that there is a huge difference between having enough space to park 3 cars, and having enough space to park 3 cars while working on one of them!

I say that so long as you aren't going hog-wild, an extra 4-8 feet in height, depth and width is more than worth the price - and can make the difference between being able to handle what you HAVE NOW as compared to handling what you MAY NEED - even if you don't know what that may be. For the few hundred dollars extra I spent on my RV shelter, I won't ever regret being able to park an additional vehicle under cover if I need it, keep both slides open on the travel trailer, and have more than enough clearance to walk on the trailer's roof.

Just thought I'd post an update. Building went up in 3 days.








At this point the crew was done with their work (I'm contracting the electrical and garage doors, and covering the walls with OSB myself) but I added them coming back to put up the ceiling. They first put 1/2" foam board up against the trusses, then furred 2' apart to attach the metal.
The building won't be heated so there is no insulation in the walls just the air space, OSB, and 1/8" foam under the metal. I had them put up the foam board under the ceiling to moderate the worst of cold in winter and heat in summer since the attic is vented.



Ceiling finished and I'm almost finished with the OSB. Picked up (12) 4' strip lights yesterday, now to get the electrician back and the garage door man, and it's done!

Nice.
I even like the color.

Thank you! Given all the choices I struggled a bit picking color but I felt locked into the green roof as the house and garage have the same green roofs. Changed my mind a few times between Clay and Brown for the walls and finally come time to start I chose Clay and added the green wainscot.

The only advice I have for anyone interested in a pole barn type structure is to insulate the walls and ceiling before you start putting up shelves and such. I made that mistake and although I did have the roof insulated with 2" blue foam when I had it re-roofed with steel I never insulated the walls. If you insulate the walls they are fairly easy to heat, without insulation heating is much more difficult.

I agree, if you think you'll ever want to heat the structure definitely insulate during construction.