New car calls for 0W-20 weight oil, I am not familiar that product.
Any thoughts? Pro or Con??

THX

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SWCA #2306
DAV in honor of POP

It is very common in todays newer engines


Here is a better explanation than I can write.


What Is 0W-20 Engine Oil? | Castrol(R) USA

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Still Running Against the Wind

My 2022 Toyota used 0W-16 which was hard to find sometimes. My current car uses the 0W-20 which is easy to find as more and more cars are using it.

Modern engine lubrication systems are designed to run oil with less parasitic pumping losses than your father's Oldsmobile.

Don't try to outsmart the engineers that designed the engine.

Yes...engines today are built to tight tolerances past designers couldn't dream of. 0W-20 is a very commonly specified oil and has been for at least 20+ years.

Acura takes 0W-20

Stingray 0W-40

When in doubt go to factory recommended viscosity

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I’m your Boogie Man, uh huh.

What GM called for my 2017 Bowtie truck 0W-20....So's dats all all I've ever poured in it..........All seems well.....Well it holds 8 quarts instead of the old 5 qts for most V8's

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S&W Accumulator

Both my 2013 Honda CRV and 2022 Toyota Tacoma use 0-20W synthetic.

I have a 3.5L TT in my vehicle. The manual calls for 0w-20, but it’s hard to find in my small town. I asked a top oil expert and the manufacturer and they both advised me that 5W-30 would work fine. I’m in a warmer climate. I notice you’re in FL, so you should be fine too.

My 2018 Silverado uses 0-20 synthetic; my 02 Silverado uses 10-30 or 10-40. Same 5.3 V-8, 16 model years later. The '18 engine has much tighter internal tolerances than the '02.

My 2018 Subaru calls for 0-20. Use Mobil One and a Wix filter.

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Life Is A Gift. Defend it!

Long gone are the days of 20W-50. I recall my dad shaking his head at 10W-40.

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Release the Kraken

In hot weather in the '70s we sold straight 40w to oil-burning clunkers. Straight 50w was for hot weather hay season tractors that were already running. Then there was Double Eagle 30w re-refined oil for 19 cents a quart for the worst of the worst that still ran.

My wife's 2017 Honda CRV calls for 0-20W engine oil. I use nothing but Mobil 1 in all my vehicles and have for many years , never ANY issues !

I used Wix for many years. Cars, lawnmowers, snowblowers, generators, etc.

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I’m your Boogie Man, uh huh.

There is currently 0w8. Probably we’ll be using 0w4 before too long.
Can there be 0w0??

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Who are those guys?

2016 Tacoma 0w-20
2014 Ram Hemi 5w-20

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213th FBINA

The very best oil you can use is Amsoil Signature 0-W20 which is the undisputed champion by every oil specialist, race car driver and car aficionado. The downside is the price! Second best and 95% as good is Penzoil ULTRA Platinum (not the regular platinum). It is made from natural gas and is excellent at 1/3 the price. The best filter is Amsoil as well. Forget about what they told us about oils 30 years ago - 100% full synthetic is now the best there is for new vehicles.


Today’s fuel efficient oil is as thin as water but chemically far superior to yesterday’s kind.

WOW!! In all my years around autos I never saw a 0W-16!!

Learned me something today.

My 2013 Prius C had over 200k miles on it since new. At 5000 miles the oil was still clean and at the full mark. 0W20 since new and dealer serviced most of the time. Not sure if the new 2024 one is 0W20 or 0W16 but it will be what I use in the new Prius. Seen one on an independent Toyota repair shop with 341k miles on the original brake pads and they had more than half of the pad material left. Even with current gas prices here creeping past $3 a gallon that's less than 5 cents a mile in fuel cost.

My research shows the same results.

But I’m not about to pay the money they want when Mobil One and Wix have done well for me the last 40 years.

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Life Is A Gift. Defend it!

My Harley calls for 20-50, my Tacoma is 0-20.

Every Harley I've owned over the years took 20-50.

0W-20 is a useful oil.
It, plus some STP oil treatment, has become my go to gun lube.
My 23 outback turbo runs the stuff. It holds up remarkably well despite the hellish environment it faces in a turbocharged engine.
Embrace the stuff. It's a lot more robust than you might think

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it just needs more voltage

I'll second Amsoil. I have a 2019 F150 at 62k. I took a kit from Amsoil to my local mechanic for a change. I instantly noticed a difference. The engine was quieter on startup. Still waiting to see how it goes over 5k. I am debating on whether or not to do one of those send away oil tests. I got an oil change kit for my MC and am waiting to see how it works on next change.

Do you remember when Harley warned synthetic oil could cause bearing skate?
Then they went radio silent on the issue when they started selling it...


Have you ever run Type F ATF in the primary? You can actually feel it engage more positively.

You're supposed to put oil in cars?

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Waiting For The Sun.

Yep, every few years or so.

I think it has to do with the energy shut off/restart system if you are in drive and stop. With frequent starts, you need an oil that is light as distilled water.

I make sure to disable that each time I drive. I have changed enough starters out in the wet and cold in my life.

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Front sight and squeeze

Having been raised in PA, I grew up with the notion that one only used lube oil made from Pennsylvania crude. Higher lube factor in the crude. Along came my second new car and I'd already done my first oil change and realized that while the hot engine idle oil pressure was OK, it was less than with the break in oil.

Decided to attend the dealerships new owners class (not entirely for knowledge) and learned quite a few things including that Castrol was a superior oil. The next oil change involved Castrol and hot idle oil pressure was back where it originally was. Been using Catrol-including 0W-20-ever since. Worth the money. Hint: wally world has really good prices on the product. One of the only 3 things I'll buy there.

Biku324s comments on oil back in the day brought back memories. For you youngins, back then oil use of a quart per 1000 miles was common on vehicles. One also viewed vehicles with 50-60K miles as candidates for an overhaul. Not no more!

Related add on: one of the other things I learned was that not all oil filters are created equal. They had cut aways examples of leading brands plus the factory brand. Haven't bought a Fram since.

I've used Amsoil for over 3 decades but it has now priced itself out. I also have drastically switched my driving habits and now drive each vehicle under 5,000 miles a year. The ULTRA Platinum Penzoil is rated at 95% - 96% as good as the Signature Amsoil and costs 1/3 the price - available on Amazon with no shipping costs. Unless you intend to participate in the Daytona 500 your car's engine will not even notice!

At 3 times the price of the "95% - as-good" Ultra Platinum Penzoil, the Amsoil Signature is just no longer justifiable to me. The Ultra Platinum also far far exceeds ALL manufacturers specifications for lubrication, protection from heat and longevity. I have switched to the Penzoil product above a year ago with exceptional results so far.

ADDED NOTES: If I still drove 20,000+ miles a year I'd bite the bullet and still use the Amsoil for the extra 5% of protection. That said, if I drive 5K mi. a year now it's a lot. Everything is so convenient here and when we travel we fly.

BTW, the engine manufacturers keep using thinner and thinner oils as it has less resistance and gives better gas milage. Because the engineers have figured out how to get better protection, lubrication and longevity out of ultra thin oils, they can now safely use them. Most car manufacturers also call for synthetic oils now which are MUCH better and last MUCH longer than Dinosaur oils did. Technology does sometimes succeed!

My 2022 Ford 7.3 (445ci) ozone killing environmental nightmare still calls for 5W-30.

I turn that off first thing getting in my car. The many times I was at a stop light and heard the car next to me shudder upon moving convinced me.

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I’m your Boogie Man, uh huh.

It's not about " Tighter tolerances " , etc. 0w-20 oil yields a slightly better fuel economy which is critical to conform to CAFE standards .

There are many ways to defeat that system on new cars. One can just disconnect the control module from the + battery post which makes the shut-off devise non functioning. You can also buy a replacement switch (for most cars) that takes the place of the momentary contact switch and allows it to be turned off - but still function with another push of the switch IF you want it on. Some people simply fold a match book cover and jam it in on the side of the button to keep it pushed in constantly.

Our new car has the stop/start feature and since the momentary contact defeat switch is right near the ignition button we automatically just push it in every time we start the car - without even thinking about it. We just use two fingers at start up - lol.

That will surprise my auto shop owner (for the past 20 years) who told me that. I personally have no direct knowledge of engine tolerances.

My air-cooled Harleys still run 20W-50 and 20W-60.

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213th FBINA

After seeing how badly STP oil treatment gummed up my '64 GTO, I wouldn't use it to lube a wagon wheel.

The only thing good STP had going for it was a very expensive advertising campaign.

As far as a gun lube, Qui sabe!

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!

Way back in the late ‘60’s a buddy had a Ford station wagon that blew a blue smoke trail going down the road. I put a quart of 90 weight gear oil in and smoke cut down dramatically. Joe

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Behavior Creates Destiny

Thank you all.. 0W-20 oil for first oil change scheduled this afternoon.

VALVOLINE ADVANCED, they were wth only people that had it in stock in their IN-AND-OUT store. EVERYBODY else was out of stock.


Sal

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SWCA #2306
DAV in honor of POP

…is the recommended oil for my Rangie.

Might surprise some to know the recommended oil change interval is 20K miles.

Yes, I will abide with that. Land Rover warranties the motor; suspect they know what they’re doing.

Be safe.

Note: BMW makes the motor. Believe they, too, know what they’re doing. 😎

Mine is right near the start button also. Must be a message there.

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I’m your Boogie Man, uh huh.

The best message IMNSHO is to take the stupid thing out completely and fire the person that came up with it!

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!

0-20W synthetic is what my 2019 Toyota Highlander calls for.

Need pictures of that first year!

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USS Brewton FF1086
SWCA#3597

Probably because the engine was designed in the last millennium.

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Release the Kraken

Actually it is both.

Multi-viscosity oil is formulated to meet specific viscosity parameters at two specific temperatures - the freezing and boiling point of water.

The 0W20 designation means that at 32*F the oil has the same properties as single-weight 0 viscosity oil. It has the same viscosity/thickness/flow characteristics as 0-weight oil. At 212*F it has the same viscosity/thickness/flow characteristics as 20-weight oil.

Modern engines have tighter tolerances (clearances) between the bearings and rotating parts - like the crankshaft, camshaft, & rod bearings. Those smaller clearances require thinner oil in order for the oil pump to be able to push the oil into the space between the bearings and the rotating parts. It is this pressurized oil that keeps the parts from actually touching and creating metal to metal contact and wearing out the parts.

Since cold oil is harder to pump and more resistant to flow, reduced viscosity at low temperatures makes it easier for it to flow and lubricate the parts when the oil is cold. As oil warms up it gets thinner - lowering viscosity - so it is important for the oil to have a higher viscosity rating at high temperatures so that it maintains its ability to lubricate the parts and prevent the metal to metal contact that wears out parts.

Higher weight, thicker oil creates more drag on the rotating parts and takes more power to turn the oil pump pushing the oil throughout the engine. That drag is a parasitic power loss - some of engine's power is wasted overcoming the drag and pumping resistance. Since that lost power comes from the engine burning fuel, the lost power is wasted fuel.

One other aspect of the resistance to flow is that that pumping resistance itself is a form of friction that adds even more heat to the oil. Simply pumping oil raises its temperature, and the thicker it is the more heat will be created in the oil just from the friction of being pumped through the system.

So thinner oil experiences less of this pumping friction and stays cooler. Heat is one of the things that causes oil molecules to break down, so less heat from pumping friction also helps the oil to last longer without breaking down. That's one of the reasons modern cars have so much longer recommended oil change frequencies. The oil holds up better and lasts longer before it starts to break down from heat.

One really great thing about synthetic oil is that the oil molecules are chemically engineered to all be identical length chains of molecules. "Natural" distilled oil contains a mix of different length molecule chains. So, the synthetic is much more uniform in its composition. You can think of it as tighter quality control.

This tighter quality control and consistency is another one of the main reasons that newer vehicles have much longer recommended oil change intervals. The oil maintains its consistency for much longer without breaking down.

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Send lawyers, guns & money...

Neither do I . That wasn't my point .

I had a bunch of old auto magazines and it seemed like every few pages had an ad for piston rings.
I guess modern metallurgy and petroleum engineering has taken its toll on that end of the business.
Remember the old motor oils were brown and green new in the bottle? Modern oils are such a light yellow the almost look like cooking oil.

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Who are those guys?

Don't forget grinding valves at 30-50k and replacing points, plugs, condensers, rotors, and distributor caps routinely.