Recent content by 1911A1

The truncated cone should just fall in, as mine do in my 1917 with moon-clips. Recently put together Win. primers, W231 and truncs using Hornady reloading it calls for 3-6.2 grains of powder. Starting on the light side - 3 grains of W231 looks like 1/2 teaspoon of sand in a big teacup...

Thanks for the answers. I didn't know it would require that much modification. I had hoped it would have been similar to Ruger's 22/22m, 9mm/38 and 45acp/45LC convertibles even though the rugers were all single action. Why am I reminded of the song by the Oak Ridge Boys "Lovin two women is...

WIZARD, would be much obliged to receive that pdf on the 1917 as well. I wonder why I should not replace the cylinder/crane on my 1917 45acp with a cylinder/crane from a 45 Long Colt?

Hey fellas, I was wondering if anyone else has thought about replacing a 45ACP cylinder with a 45Long Colt cylinder. on a 1917. Bullet diameter is the same. Anything against it? Why would it not work?

Help.! I have a M-60 that I must replace the firing pin. Is there a tool designed to ease the roll pin out of the hammer? I have tried light taps with a punch and mallet but it is not moving.

CORRECTED: I bought an adapter that holds a .32 acp pistol cartridge (NOT 32 SW) in a .308 rifle casing. The Alaska company sells adapters for many caliber combinations. Before firing this .32 in my .308 I checked a Hornady reloading manual for bullet size. the .308 bullet is actually .308 but...

I bought an adapter that holds a .32 sw pistol cartridge in a .308 rifle casing. The Alaska company sells adapters for many caliber combinations. Before firing this .32 in my .308 I checked a Hornady reloading manual for bullet size. the .308 bullet is actually .308 but the .32 is .311 What...

No I did not try to dis-assemble the cylinder as it spins freely and the ejector rod moves smartly without any friction. The only friction seems to be in the movement of the "bolt". When I remove the thumbpiece and slide the Bolt to the rear, the Bolt stays to the rear, allowing the hammer to...

Thanks ALK8944 and others, I pulled the sideplate and wiped it dry. Removed the spring and hammer to get to what S&W calls the "bolt" (I call it a cylinder release bar) The bolt slides in a trough in the frame. All seems in working order - nothing bent, loose or too tight. But with the...

Thanks John, I will try the WD-40 and see if that works.

revolver works fine except:: To move the trigger, you have to pull the cylinder release back toward the grip (pushing the cylinder release forward releases the cylinder). Any Idea how to fix this?

Reply With Quote sorry, history of gun is unknown as it was purchased from an estate. one of the 3 screw heads does show tampering but that could have happened years ago.

Need some advice: Have a S&W Highway patrolman 3 screw, pinned barrel. Hammer will not cock by trigger or thumb - unless the cylinder release is pulled the rear, (forward pressure releases the cylinder, backward to release the trigger) What is broken, out of adjustment, worn?