Recent content by KneverKnew

Thank you! That is exactly what I needed to hear to clear up the confusion. 38 or 32? I actually was hoping it was a 38. This is 38 S&W correct? Not 38 special. I’ll have to figure out how to reload. I reload 38 SPL and 32 long already.

I just acquired this pistol at auction. I have a third model 32 long hand ejector, and wanted a top brake pistol in either 32 or 38. Well, based on the auction houses description in the title this pistol is caliber confused. See pictures below of the pistol and its listing page. The title reads...

Hello. I just won this revolver at auction. Difficult to get any good history or other manufacturing info online. One oddity is there are two model designations on the gun. The barrel says M971 357 Magnum. The inside of the frame says M712 and the date 1985. Any idea why to two model...

Thanks for the input fellas. I’ll keep it down to Military ball levels.

I have a model 1917, both a “US Property” and a commercial version. I’m just curious if these N framed revolvers would be safe for a consistent diet of +P loadings or should I keep them in the standard loading category? This will be with both 165 and 230 jacketed bullets as well as 230 lead...

Really don’t know the best forum to post this in, so here goes… Anybody recognize this roll mark? Thanks.http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=597078&stc=1&d=1665677693

I agree about everything you said. My skill level is dedd CD ent but would rather not make it worse. As far as nickel goes I think the cylinder already buggered that on the front face of the stud. The way it looks now is actually AFTER I used a small punch to flatten the burr that was sticking...

I discussed this previously in another thread but now I’m ready to try my hand at doing the repair to my damaged frame stud that happened some time back. I’m ashamed to admit it, since I’ve done a bore slugging on my other revolvers correctly in the pass, but I forgot to remove the cylinder...

Thank you. I’ve heard several here say they reinstall with hammer and punch instead of press. How much force would be required to hammer back in? Is there a chance of re-marring the part just from reinstallation?

If the pistol is nickel plated, how will that affect trying build up material on the face of the lug with a welder?

Is it normal, if the pistol is tipped up slightly, such as when ejecting spent shells, for the cylinder to bind on the frame when it slides backwards to engage the frame lug, so that it won’t freely swing inward to closed position? Thus, necessitating having to tip the pistol downward slightly...

How about a nickel plated for an old k frame?

You know the little bump on the left side of receiver frame that keep the cylinder from sliding too far back when it’s open? What’s that part called? If it gets damaged, is it possible to replace it and how?

In case you haven’t seen it yet, the pictures are on a new post, http://http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/645120-my-dad-s-gun-just-arrived.html#post141091130

Only thing I find strange, with the fine condition of the apparent original nickel finish, is that the barrel has a number of old pitting marks and shallow rifling. That being said, I just fired the gun at a small stump at about 45 yards with some of my powder coated wad cutters and hit it just...