Frame stud repair suggestions.

KneverKnew

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I discussed this previously in another thread but now I'm ready to try my hand at doing the repair to my damaged frame stud that happened some time back. I'm ashamed to admit it, since I've done a bore slugging on my other revolvers correctly in the pass, but I forgot to remove the cylinder, Crain and yoke before hammering the soft lead slug down the bore. The cylinder slammed into the stud, deforming its face. I had inquired about replacing it but due to the age and excellent condition of my hand ejector, I decided to leave it and try to file the damaged surfaces flat again. Please check pictures and provide any suggestions you might have. Thanks.
Pictures show before and after damage and the whole gun.
 

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If it's not interfering with the cylinder I'd leave it be. Does not look bad, barely noticeable really. Once the files come out there is risk, depending on your skill level that it's going to look worse after the "fix". To say nothing of the nickel finish, there is no repairing that.

I agree about everything you said. My skill level is dedd CD ent but would rather not make it worse. As far as nickel goes I think the cylinder already buggered that on the front face of the stud. The way it looks now is actually AFTER I used a small punch to flatten the burr that was sticking out. Thanks for your input.
 
The frame lug itself is a press fit piece of round stock. The hard part of replacing yours would be the nickel plating. Not sure that is a home fix. The nickeling I mean. The frame lug is easy.

Kevin
 
Agree it would be possible to make up a replacement. Using stainless steel rod stock would look at least close to being nickel plated. Full disclosure - I have never replaced one.
 
I have replaced one of those before. I don't think I would replace yours. When the factory builds a new gun those studs have the external part fitted perfectly on the outside at the frame. You cannot just put a new one in and expect it to look correct. Even if it was nickel, you will have a proud seam around the new one where it meets the frame. If it was mine, I would micro file the edges of the old one that are buggered up. You will need to protect the areas near the filing with blue painters tape and work slow, you should only need minimal edge filing work to make it look better. After it is cleaned up, you may need a dab of polish to help it shine.
 
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