Recent content by m1garand_man

I recently rebarreled a pre M10 and lucky everything torqued up at TDC with the cylinder gap ending up at .008" which I am happy with. I do need to cut the forcing cone though because there is still evidence of the riflings in the forcing cone. I am looking for a complete list of items I need...

I am needing to find a N frame hammer and trigger. I'd prefer a .500" hammer and a .400" serrated trigger but if you have a .400" hammer or a .400" smooth trigger I'll consider it. Please let me know what you have.

Unfortunately they don't have the exact parts I'm looking for. I need a casehardened .500" spur hammer and a case hardened .400" wide serrated target trigger. I have seen stuff on ebay but it's not cheap. Then again neither was Numrich. I wouldn't call their pricing outrageous but it's enough...

That would be the plan if one set of parts wasn't flash chromed for a stainless gun and the other was casehardened for a blued gun unfortunately they clash badly in the opposite guns.

I have successfully fitted cylinder stops and hands in Smiths and SAA's for other people. The gun in question is a -3 so it still has a forged hammer and trigger. Finding a set that are supposedly new and of the correct size spur and trigger pad plus case hardened vs blued is expensive. I...

if the mother ship is S&W I called them this morning and they essentially told me I would have to send it to them first and wait for them to get through the couple months of back log before they could take a look at my gun before they could even get me a quote. I'm hoping to take the gun on a...

Yes, Its also doing this.

Yes it can be pushed off the cocked position.

I have a M29 that I have probably put around 8000 rounds of "44 spl power" loads and a few hundred full house loads through. Just yesterday it started having issues where every time I pull the trigger in single action the hammer seems to drop earlier than it should and it essentially acts like...

I carry a p226 because it's what I am proficient with that I can also conceal. I'm way more accurate with my m29 or my 7.5" saa but those aren't concealable and the quickest way to get crazy looks in public is to have a large frame revolvery on your hip. I've done it and didn't like the...

This is a side bar to my original timing issue thread. About a year ago I put some Wolff reduced power springs in my 1905 m&p. The gun didn't have a noticeable timing issue before but does now. The only different I could tell after examining the gun last night with the old and new sets of...

There is a slight bit of end shake but nothing that screams problem to me. The cylinder gap is .008 all around.

It may be noteworthy to mention that I do have a set of reduced power springs in the gun when it comes to the main spring and rebound spring. I don't think they are causing the issue but maybe allowing me to pull the trigger faster than the gun was designed to do. With the stock springs the...

Well, I looked at the gun again tonight and this time decided to mark the chambers with a felt-tip pen and discovered that the problem is actually occurring to more than just one chamber and in reality I'm having as many instances of the cylinder being over driven as I am with under driven. I...

That was kind of my thought too but what ever peeing there is its not clearly evident. I guess I'll start with that part. Hopefully I can still find a new one.