M29 problems in single action

[m1garand_man]

I have a M29 that I have probably put around 8000 rounds of "44 spl power" loads and a few hundred full house loads through.

Just yesterday it started having issues where every time I pull the trigger in single action the hammer seems to drop earlier than it should and it essentially acts like a decocking mechanism on an auto loader. Whats going on is the hammer will fall but the hammer sear will end up grabbing the double action sear on the trigger and pulling the trigger along with it.

Another issue it is having is if you push on the hammer spur while the gun is cocked you can cause the hammer to drop.

I inspected the parts and there are no burs on the double action sear. If anything the hammer sear seems like it night have the slightest almost imperceptible amount of wear on it but I don't know how sensitive to wear these mechanisms are.

If I were to get replacement parts is there any hand fitting of the sear surfaces that has to be done? If so I imagine that they would also need to be reheat treated and I already know from experience I don't own a torch that will get that hot.

If that's the case who should I send the gun to?

Also who can replace the firing pin bushing in the frame as it has become heavily peened over the years from shooting it.

 

[Hondo44]

Drop the hammer in single action. Does it have a 'hair' trigger?

Will it stay cocked if you nudge the hammer forward by pushing on the spur with your thumb?

It it pushes off the cocked position, the trigger sear and/or hammer notch are worn and unsafe.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I think he is talking about the hammer kicking the trigger back forward?

 

[m1garand_man]

Drop the hammer in single action. Does it have a 'hair' trigger?

Will it stay cocked if you nudge the hammer forward by pushing on the spur with your thumb?

It it pushes off the cocked position, the trigger sear and/or hammer notch are worn and unsafe.

Yes it can be pushed off the cocked position.

 

[m1garand_man]

I think he is talking about the hammer kicking the trigger back forward?

Yes, Its also doing this.

 

[armorer951]

It's called push off. Either the cocking notch in the hammer or the trigger bevel (or both) are worn or damaged. A shortened or weak rebound spring can also contribute to this issue. Replacement of the rebound spring may be all that is required.

If the trigger bevel is merely worn, and the SA notch on the hammer is undamaged, the problem can likely be solved by simply sharpening the bevel on the trigger. Very simple procedure. Twenty to thirty minutes. A local S&W trained armorer, or trusted gunsmith should be able to take care of this.

 

[Rule3]

Call the Mother Ship. It is not warranty so find out how much it will be to repair it,
Some here will probably know of a good gunsmith,

 

[Nightowl]

It sounds l like you will most likely need a new hammer, trigger or both. You did not give a dash number to work with. Smith does not seem to have forged hammers and triggers for older model guns anymore. If you have a gun with a frame mounted firing pin and MIM parts, you can send it back to the factory for repair. And it is most likely under warranty.
If you have forged hammer and trigger, you may be better off to find some replacement parts and find a gunsmith to install them. They will probably have to be fitted. (sometimes the trigger contact point can be stoned to return the edge to spec, but it does not always work).

 

[serger]

If you are good with pulling the side plate, after you do that
Blow it out with carburetor cleaner and see if that helps. I
have had crud build up on the single action notch. I have
also had to take a tooth pick and remove carbon and grit.

If you don't feel good about removing the side plate, you
can use carb cleaner after removing the stocks. It might
save you down time and cash. Just. a thought.

If you decide to do this be sure to take the stocks off so
The cleaner won't hurt them.

 

[m1garand_man]

Call the Mother Ship. It is not warranty so find out how much it will be to repair it,
Some here will probably know of a good gunsmith,

if the mother ship is S&W I called them this morning and they essentially told me I would have to send it to them first and wait for them to get through the couple months of back log before they could take a look at my gun before they could even get me a quote.

I'm hoping to take the gun on a hunt here next month.

 

[m1garand_man]

I have successfully fitted cylinder stops and hands in Smiths and SAA's for other people.

The gun in question is a -3 so it still has a forged hammer and trigger. Finding a set that are supposedly new and of the correct size spur and trigger pad plus case hardened vs blued is expensive.

I have tried the trigger and hammer from another N frame of mine in the gun and they work perfectly. In fact the old hammer works fine with the other trigger and the old trigger works fine with the other hammer. It seems that I have a case of tolerance stacking going on.

There is just a touch of wear on edge of the trigger sear. I think I'll try to stone it later. I cant mess it up worse than it is right now. Worst comes to worst it will be around $150 for replacement parts off ebay.

 

[steelslaver]

There is just a touch of wear on edge of the trigger sear. I think I'll try to stone it later. I cant mess it up worse than it is right now. Worst comes to worst it will be around $150 for replacement parts off ebay.

Plus, you will get some hands on learning experience. Nice thing about triggers is that the same vintage K,L,N will work if it gets to that point.

 

[series guy]

Posting your location could result in some local help being offered or suggested.

 

[Hondo44]

I have successfully fitted cylinder stops and hands in Smiths and SAA's for other people.

The gun in question is a -3 so it still has a forged hammer and trigger. Finding a set that are supposedly new and of the correct size spur and trigger pad plus case hardened vs blued is expensive.

I have tried the trigger and hammer from another N frame of mine in the gun and they work perfectly. In fact the old hammer works fine with the other trigger and the old trigger works fine with the other hammer. It seems that I have a case of tolerance stacking going on.

There is just a touch of wear on edge of the trigger sear. I think I'll try to stone it later. I cant mess it up worse than it is right now. Worst comes to worst it will be around $150 for replacement parts off ebay.

Is there a problem just leaving the parts swapped that make both guns work properly?

 

[Rule3]

Might try Gun Parts to see if they have what you need/want


Smith & Wesson 29-3 Revolver Parts, Schematics | Numrich Gun Parts

 

[Patrick L]

Gun Parts (Numrich) is currently shut down for the pandemic, but their site says you can place an order and they'll fill it when they reopen.

Last I needed any, they did have hammers and triggers, just not a full selection. If you want a wide target hammer and trigger, forget it. But they had narrower ones in stock.

I'm not 100% sure, but I seem to recall that, worst case, you can just put in current MIM parts. At least it will then function correctly and safely. Truth be told, I don't question the quality, integrity, or durability of the new parts, I am just like so many others hung up on using the old forged parts. It's totally silly, I know.

Finally, its also true that if a lighter trigger return spring is installed, it can cause push off even though the parts are sound. I almost had a stroke when I thought my 27-2 pushed off, but I had swapped the spring. The factory spring was reinstalled and we were good again. As I get older, I appreciate a heavier pull that is safe.

 

[Rule3]

Gun Parts (Numrich) is currently shut down for the pandemic, but their site says you can place an order and they'll fill it when they reopen.

.

Dang did not read that. Heck they should be "essential" but they are in the State of New York.

 

[m1garand_man]

Is there a problem just leaving the parts swapped that make both guns work properly?

That would be the plan if one set of parts wasn't flash chromed for a stainless gun and the other was casehardened for a blued gun unfortunately they clash badly in the opposite guns.

 

[m1garand_man]

Might try Gun Parts to see if they have what you need/want


Smith & Wesson 29-3 Revolver Parts, Schematics | Numrich Gun Parts

Unfortunately they don't have the exact parts I'm looking for. I need a casehardened .500" spur hammer and a case hardened .400" wide serrated target trigger. I have seen stuff on ebay but it's not cheap. Then again neither was Numrich. I wouldn't call their pricing outrageous but it's enough that I have to consider what else I have going on this month before I spring for the parts.