Recent content by mhswlee

So, with a file and some abrasives, I reprofiled and refinished my T-Grip. It looks a lot better now. =)

So I picked up my mail today and lo and behold: MY T-GRIP ARRIVED! =O The Good: It looks nice from the side, and it fits reasonably well in the hand. The Bad: If this is the state of American craftsmanship, sign me up for the Chinese ****. Now, I am not sure if this is intended, but...

Can anyone get in contact with these people? =(

Quite frankly, I don't mind a long wait. It's just the NOT KNOWING that annoys me. Especially when they get your hopes up with an announcement that they send a batch out. =(

Well, this is certainly rather disappointing.

The gun is not new, and I have opened her up before to check the internals. I was just wondering if a distinct staging point is just typical of the revolver.

So my 686+ trigger pull seems to get really heavy right before the break, after the cylinder rotates. Is this normal for the gun, or should I seek to get rid of it? If the latter, how does one get rid of it anyway? Is it a matter of lubrication or polishing?

Hi, has anyone recently received a Tyler T-Grip? I sent a check to them approximately 7 weeks ago, and I have not heard back from them. Their site says that they shipped out, but I have not seen anything in my mail recently.

You can always use a 8-32 socket head set screw. I have a 1/2" one in my 686-6, and if I am not mistaken, the 629-6 and 686-6 use the same strain screw. Just cut it to the length of the original strain screw sans head. Or keep it longer; you can tune it this way, then use green Loktite to hold...

Whoa. Hold your horses. While I am sure that the cylinders are interchangeable, I am not so sure about the hand. You may need to get the gun retimed.

Mind if I get the 42 black?

I'm a big fan of Slip 2000, but in my revolvers, I use it solely as a rust preventative for both the internals and the exterior. I coat on a light layer, let it dry, and wipe off the excess.

So I decided to post an update. (I hate unconclusive threads.) I had read a variety of threads a couple of weeks ago, and I went about de-polishing my 686+. I went with the Scotch Brite pad method, partly because I like working with my hands and partly because I'm rather cheap. Heh. This is...

First, diagnose if it is the gun or the round itself that is the problem. It's not inconceivable that 3/100 rounds would be bad in a reloaded batch or in a box of cheapo plinking ammo. If it is the gun, I would try an extended firing pin, such as the one made by Apex Tactical.

I have not seen anything like that recently. It's hard to imagine though that such an obvious lemon would be in circulation for any duration of time.