Recent content by MonroeT

Are the pinned front sights on j-frames like the newer 357 mag models the same width as the pinned front sights on a model 10?

The extractor rod is not present. I am not sure the number is serial number. It may be an assembly number to keep extractor and cylinder matched after fitting and then plating. It sure looks like a Smith K. The slots on the face of the extractor center hub look like photos of pre-model K-frames...

The number is 933608. I think it may be a rechamber job, but what model gun? There is a faint capital "G" underneath the numbers on the cylinder.

I bought this cylinder off GB thinking it was for a M19. It is the same length and diameter as a M10, but it is chambered for .357 magnum. The extractor an cylinder are numbered to each other. The yoke matches a M66 profile. The extractor is too long and wont allow the cylinder to close in a M10...

roninsan, let me know how this works out. I sure would like to avoid the high shipping costs for the whole gun. I think my FFL could ship and use regular mail. Does anyone know the facts on shipping between FFL's?

Thanks. These guys do some really wild industrial stuff, but they have an interest in firearms. The are FFL so you can ship direct to them and back.

I chopped a 4" heavy barrel to put on a J&G frame. Wasn't happy with mismatch so I re-contoured the barrel top line. Still not satisfied, I found a place that welded up the top line of the frame and I re-shaped the frame to better match the recontoured barrel. The place is Microthech Welding...

Over the last year I have been playing hobby gunsmith re-barreling a few J&G gunsmith specials. I have enhanced my skills and developed a real appreciation for the professionals who do this for a living. Using hand tools I have been able to chop the barrels to 3", recrown, re-set B/C gaps and...

Thanks for the last photos. From the back and with the glare I can see where the holdter is making contact with the gun. Couldn't tell looking "thru" the carving. Almost a total gun friction fit. Thanks

Thanks for the detailed pictures, Bruce. They clearly show the construction of the welts, both for revolver and for semi-autos. How secure is your two-inch? Where do you feel the friction points for retention? Is it generally around the cylinder? Is there any interference at the frame below the...

Thanks Red. I would pretty much always have a belt on, but I take your point that if there is too much tension on the weapon the holster may twist interfering with the draw. I'll play around the idea some. I like the way open top holsters look when stamped or carved without a strap getting in...

I have read with interest a great number of posts regarding Threeperson and Brill holsters and their use of thicker, shaped welts to provide a friction retention hold on the gun. I've used this information to build a couple of holsters for Smith model 10's and it works as advertised. I am now...

Thanks for the replies. I had no original pin. I replaced barrel and ordered a locking bolt, spring and pin. No collector value. Nothing structural. It worked out and functions properly. Just a small pain to have to do it. I didn't think of th drill rod. Duh!

Are there two sizes of locking bolt pins? Are they model specific? Are they barrel length or profile specific? I ordered from a used parts supplier and I got two diameters - .059 and .069. Length OK but I had to drill for the larger pins. Just wondering if I need to be more specific in what I...

I guess the answer is if it ain't broke don't fix it. Since the others I have done shoot to my satisfaction I'll continue the build without recutting forcing cone. Once together if it sucks I can always try recutting then with the barrel in the frame. Thanks for all the replies.