Input Request: 2.5" Model 10 Project

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I recently acquired what appears to be an authentic 2.5" model 10 barrel and am trying to decide what do do with it. I know that no matter what I do, it will not be an authentic 2.5" Model 10 revolver when complete.

I want a round butt frame that was made for a heavy barrel, meaning that the leading edge of the frame is not tapered. This is proving difficult to find in a model 10. (I really don't see the benefit of re-barreling a 3" model 10.) I may be able to find a 64-5 and have stainless/blue pinto built.

I'm also not sure about the ejector rod. It falls between the lengths used on 2" and 4" k frames. I don't know if one from a 2.5" model 19 will fit or not.

Suggestions and observations are appreciated.
 

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You could try J&G Sales. They still have some of the re-imported 2" guns that lack barrels. The ad says they mostly have 10-7's and 10'9's, but you could call and ask if they have any 10-6's or 10-8's. They are supposedly all round butts.
I converted two 10-6's to three inch from 4 inch. I used a set of round butt grips as a guide. Lots of grinding and filing. Be careful you don't touch the serial number if you go the square butt to round butt route.
 
You could try J&G Sales. They still have some of the re-imported 2" guns that lack barrels. The ad says they mostly have 10-7's and 10'9's, but you could call and ask if they have any 10-6's or 10-8's. They are supposedly all round butts.
I converted two 10-6's to three inch from 4 inch. I used a set of round butt grips as a guide. Lots of grinding and filing. Be careful you don't touch the serial number if you go the square butt to round butt route.

Good suggestion. I contacted J&G. They replied today that they "have not seen any other than -7 or -9 variations."

I'm a bit leery about doing a square-to-round conversion myself, but I do have a square 10-6 around here that needs a new barrel anyway.

I know - that's one of the reasons that we have gunsmiths...
 
Interesting project

I had one of the 2 1/2" M10-8's made for the Michigan State Police in my collection some time back, cool gun. (see pic below)

Like you, I found another 2 1/2" barrel somewhere (can't remember) and started looking for the other parts needed to put together another revolver for carry purposes. Still have them somewhere, along with a 2 1/2" ejector rod and parts (IIRC from a M19), but have not got around to it yet, not sure how much "modifications" I would need to do to make the parts work......someday...

a5SspM.jpg
 
I chopped a 4" heavy barrel to put on a J&G frame. Wasn't happy with mismatch so I re-contoured the barrel top line. Still not satisfied, I found a place that welded up the top line of the frame and I re-shaped the frame to better match the recontoured barrel.

The place is Microthech Welding. The guy is Ted Dienelt. [email protected] - 260.490-4005

They do a laser weld that does not affect the heat temper of the frame. The depth of weld is controlled so that they can actually hold the part in bare hand while welding. If you sent them a barrel and frame they can build up the frame so that it could then be reshaped to match the barrel.

Here's a picture of mine. I haven't finally installed the barrel, but you can see where the frame has been reshaped and better matches the barrel.
The cost was very reasonable, and the turnaround was a couple of weeks.
 

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Thanks. These guys do some really wild industrial stuff, but they have an interest in firearms. The are FFL so you can ship direct to them and back.
 
I chopped a 4" heavy barrel to put on a J&G frame. Wasn't happy with mismatch so I re-contoured the barrel top line. Still not satisfied, I found a place that welded up the top line of the frame and I re-shaped the frame to better match the recontoured barrel.

The place is Microthech Welding. The guy is Ted Dienelt. [email protected] - 260.490-4005

They do a laser weld that does not affect the heat temper of the frame. The depth of weld is controlled so that they can actually hold the part in bare hand while welding. If you sent them a barrel and frame they can build up the frame so that it could then be reshaped to match the barrel.

Here's a picture of mine. I haven't finally installed the barrel, but you can see where the frame has been reshaped and better matches the barrel.
The cost was very reasonable, and the turnaround was a couple of weeks.

That's quite a process, and a great resource.
 
Does anyone mind providing details regarding the correct extractor rod and center pin for the 2.5" Model 10? Comparing the barrel to other K frames that I own, it appears that the extractor rod length falls somewhere between those used for the 2" barrels and the 4" barrels. I think I have everything else that i need on hand.
 
Does anyone mind providing details regarding the correct extractor rod and center pin for the 2.5" Model 10? Comparing the barrel to other K frames that I own, it appears that the extractor rod length falls somewhere between those used for the 2" barrels and the 4" barrels. I think I have everything else that i need on hand.

Here's a used ejector rod for a 2 1/2" M19 from Numrich for $10.80:
Extractor Rod, Blued (For 2-1/2" Barrels) | Gun Parts Corp.
 
If you absolutely can't find an odd ball length rod, I have cut and then knurled the tip of a rod. I have also reworked messed up knurling on a rod. With a small lathe and a knurling tool it is easy. If You took a long rod to a machine shop, they could cut it to your length and put knurling on the tip.
 
If you absolutely can't find an odd ball length rod, I have cut and then knurled the tip of a rod. I have also reworked messed up knurling on a rod. With a small lathe and a knurling tool it is easy. If You took a long rod to a machine shop, they could cut it to your length and put knurling on the tip.

This is probably the way I'll end up going. I'll discuss it with the gunsmith that will be doing the barrel swap. If he can't do the knurling I can probably find someone local who can.
 

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