Recent content by Oldshot

Not sure if all N frame cylinder rods are the same diameter on shaft, but could be cut to length with the point machined to fit the hole in the ejection star.Try calling Numrich, if they have the part ( for any other N frame model), see what they say. Also, call S&W, if they still do repairs on...

Hope all of this great detective work gets it solved for you.Next step is finding the right parts for the fix. Good luck. Suggestion: Get a copy of" The S&W Revolver-A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen. I think the problem is listed in the trouble shoting section, pg 61. A google search may show...

The hammer is clearly blocked by the cylinder release "tab". If you can somehow move the "tab" rearward & hold it there, the cylinder should be able to be moved out, to the left with a push of your thumb. If not, then IMHO the cause & fix is well beyond what us Bubbas are capable of, & biting...

It is OK. Same dull silver finish on my 1970s 52-2 with bright polished chamber cowl as seen thru. ejection port. Your memory is fine- you remembered the safe combo & located the gun inside. What more could you ask?

Excellent example of WWI history, but it really deserves to be shot. Put some 230 grn. ball through it. Best done twice a year: Memorial Day & Veterans Day. Maybe gift your FIL a "new" one from the CMP. Enjoy.

Lot's of good advice. At 90 I can still "push & pull" rack the slide, but DA on revolvers or DA/SA on autos is another story. My trigger finger looks like a shepherds crook & has minimal strength.So far using the index finger of my support hand to help the rearward trigger press has worked, but...

Sorry for late post. First: Could the flute "crud" be the result of the cylinder gap not in spec? Any signs of end shake or was the lock up tight with no signs of damage from heavy mag. firing? Next: did any of the excellent cleaning suggestions work? I have a 4" M-28-3 with a lot of mags and p+...

If you are any bit concerned about the "economics", then IMO you should trade the gun, but definitely keep your wife. Just sayn.

Does anyone make or sell counter weights for the M-52? Years ago CalGrip had a neat after market set that fit the groves in the frame & a rod insert to hang the weight on to. But I believe they are no longer in business. Thanks for your help.

I've been shooting my 52-2 since 1979 no real problems, but it is not very forgiving. You might find it a bit "whippy" in timed/rapid and if so try to find a set of barrel weights, either originals (rare) or after market (not too rare but need to hunt hard). My reload is 2.7grs of Bullseye with...

I think Barrie is on to something re: the sight adjustment spring under the sight base. If you haven't already done so, crank the sight UP all the way..as far as it will go. This should make it possible to look under the blade to see if it still has a spring. If it's still in place, stretch it a...

Not to rehash what others have already said, but just a few things to think about: If there are any gun shows still allowed in NE, you'd be surprised how much casting equipment is available. No one is jumping up & down to buy the stuff, so you might be able to get some good buys. Figure out...

If you want to expand your search, I suggest googling "Pistol Smith Guild". You just might find the right GS nearby. Good Luck.

I recently had a similar problem with a M-28-3, firing my regular .38spl lead 158gr swc loads as well as my .357 Mag re-loads. The chambers appeared to be clean, but my Lewis lead remover told me otherwise. It took a long time scrubbing , but I was able to get fired cases to drop in and out of...

What brand of primers are you using? If you use the load in another .38 do they also tear? If so, contact the primer mfgr. If not, remove the firing pin and examine the tip and first 1/4" of the sides. Lightly stone off any burs. Check also the fp hole for rough edges. Recheck ransom rest...