best brass for .40s&w

a1racer

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ok here are the 3 i have
1federal
2speer
3wincheaster
so what one is the best for loads and what one should i use for plinking. they are all clean all once fired. and i have a lot of each about 700 rounds of each one or more
 
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I have no experience with that caliber specifically but I've used a great deal of all three of those brands of cases in handgun rounds and have gotten good results with each.I'd be happy with either and have no preference between them.
 
I too have has a lot of experiance with all 3 brands but not with the 40 S&W. I have used all 3 for the .45 Auto and 9mm and all 3 performed well. I personally like to use Winchester brass for handgun rounds and Federal is my favorite brass for rifle rounds. It's not that one is better than the other in ways we can tell just by shooting, I just like the way it feels in the press when reloading. (although my most accurate 30-06 ammo is made with Federal brass)

I would suggest you pick one, use it until it wears out and then move to the next... Really..
 
I will use the Speer for plinking then I guess. And save the federal and wincheaster for after the Speer wears out. Thanks for the help. I just wanted to know that I was not loading a round in a brass that is not any good.
 
I load them all in my 40s. I've never had trouble with any of them. Federal seems to last a few more times.
 
I shoot quite a bit of .40. Just load your empties and shoot them.
You are wasting your time sorting good brass by brand. Wait until you pick up some "Glocked" range brass and you'll get a chalenge.
If you get an Amerc, toss it.
 
I have loaded TONS of 40S&W with all three brands of brass. While I don't separate it any more I do want them to be the same length.
Each one is different but as long as they are the same length they will crimp and hold a bullet well.

Holding the bullet tightly is the premier problem with this round. If you have setback with it, you can end up with part of your gun as a permanent part of your anatomy! ;)

Winchester brass is usually thinner, that could pose a problem if you don't sort. Separating brass will at least make setup for getting the same crimp on all rounds. That is the only reason I do it. I shoot the 40S&W in a Glock 22 and I have no desire to have a piece of plastic permanently embedded in my hand! ;)

FWIW
 
ok here are the 3 i have
1federal
2speer
3wincheaster
so what one is the best for loads and what one should i use for plinking. they are all clean all once fired. and i have a lot of each about 700 rounds of each one or more

I have used Winchester, Remington, Federal and Speer brass in 40 S&W reloads and cannot see any differences in performance.
 
thanks for the help guys. i just sorted all my brass today. to get rid of the cheap stuff. and i only had about 250 rounds worth of no name. or cheap brass in the lot of 2300 plus brass. the rest was winchester federal speer and a little blazer. only 103 blazer and mostly speer. so i will use the speer for most of my loads for a while. until i put a few loads on them then switch to the federal or winchester.
 
" I shoot the 40S&W in a Glock 22 and I have no desire to have a piece of plastic permanently embedded in my hand! "

My son-in-law is also a "Glock pervert" and in addition to dealing with his "Glocked" cases, I have to be sure all his .40 reloads are a loose fit in a cartridge gauge.

Every blown Glock I've seen looked like the case fired out of battery.

In contrast, one shooter with a 1911 came to a match with BAD ammo and had 3 blown cases that day before I DQ'd his ammo. No damage to gun or shooter.
 
Say WHAT?

" I shoot the 40S&W in a Glock 22 and I have no desire to have a piece of plastic permanently embedded in my hand! "

My son-in-law is also a "Glock pervert"

Well, I've never been called that before! Always something to learn around here. I can say this though, I'm in good company and only have to claim you as my (outlaw) in-law, not a real relative! ;)
 
I would like to recover a casing from every round I shoot, maybe a few extra each trip to the range. However, I always come back with some I didn’t take while someone gets some of mine. Especially irksome when I take 10mm and come home with .40.
I think you will find yourself with mixed handgun brass if you shoot a lot. Relax its mostly good stuff with the amec exception, and assuming its brass not aluminum or steel.
 
Hard to tell. Not all brass is made by whose headstamp is on it. Some Winchester white box is made abroad , by either Sellier & Bellot or IMI. Starline claims to make pistol brass on contract for all the major US ammo makers.
 
I don't sort pistol brass anymore as I can not tell much if any difference in the accuracy or performance of any of my pistols with one particular headstamp. I have shot many thousands of 40s through my M&P and it like them all.
 
Every blown Glock I've seen looked like the case fired out of battery.

I'm just curious, but about how many blown Glocks have you seen? I've been a LEO firearms instructor for 10 years in a department that uses Glocks exclusively and I've never seen even one.
 
I can not tie any brass to a specific handgun.
I know someone’s pistol at the local range (.45) puts a big dent in the case about half way down; I iron them out with a drill rod. I have heard it said that is caused by an out-of –time action.
I know someone’s .45 puts a bulge, not big but there, close to the base of the case, let’s say just above the web.

Since I am not equipped to take the steps talked about in the “glocked brass” thread, I have to pitch them.

Evidently the people who can trace it to gun brand have tried and convicted some Glock 40s & 45s.
 
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