Magnum rifle primers in a 35 Whelen

vojac45

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I know this is a pistol forum but I am hoping someone can help me out. I am new to reloading and plan on loading some 35 Wheeln rounds. My loadbook lists Remington Large Rifle Primers, 9 1/2, but I have some 9 1/2 Magnum primers from a friend. I plan on using IMR 4064, so will this be okay?
 
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I know this is a pistol forum but I am hoping someone can help me out. I am new to reloading and plan on loading some 35 Wheeln rounds. My loadbook lists Remington Large Rifle Primers, 9 1/2, but I have some 9 1/2 Magnum primers from a friend. I plan on using IMR 4064, so will this be okay?
 
Magnum primers are usually for hard to ignite powders, like ball powders, and when there's a whole lot of powder to ignite. The Whelen usually doesn't need a magnum primer and certainly not with 4064.

Rem 9 1/2 primers shouldn't cost more than $3/100, so that's probably what you ought to see about getting.
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I load and shoot the 35 Whelen.

There really is no advantage to using the Magnum primers in what is esssentually a medium capacity case.

On the other hand, the increase briseance can cause erratic ignition in the Whelen case and accuracy may suffer.

Will it HURT amything, probably not. Can't think of anything you could hurt.

On the other hand with zero advantage other than saving a few dollars, are we talking 100 primers or 1000 primers? Unless he's giving you 1000 primers, just put them on the shelf and use what the manuals tell you to use.

RWT
 
Thank you for the quick feedback, I went out and bought large rifle primers today.
 
I load .35 Whelen with IMR 4064 and use only standard primers. I harvested a nice 8 pt. whitetail buck with my Whelen this past November, the load was 54.5 gr. 4064 under a Sierra 225 gr. SPBT with a Winchester standard primer. Accuracy with this load was excellent.
 
The 225 Sierra Game King is what I bought. I was planning on using these for boar.
 
Excellent choice, Im sure you'll be pleased with that bullet's performance on target and on game. It shoots the best of anything I've tried in my Whelen.
 
Vojak: I have a Ruger 77 MKI in 35 Whelen and so do two of my brothers.

I use my every couple of years for elk in thick timber. I use 250 grain Noslers Partitions for elk and have never lost one or had to shoot one more than once.

The brothers use theirs a lot more than I do. RG the middle brother uses his for everything bigger than deer with very good results. The load we shoot uses IMR 4350 and a standard large rifle primer. It kills elk and bear etc very well.

RWT
 
With magnum primers you need to use around 5 to 10% less powder in a standard cartridge. The primers are hotter and ignite more powder at once, so pressures go up for the same weight of powder, and so does burn rate, slightly. You can use them, just back the charge off and work up. Also, get a chronograph, so you can get good data on what you're doing. Watch for pressure signs, like cratered primers, flattened primers and stretched case heads. Sticky bolt life is a pressure sign and so is a really shiney case head. If you see these signs, back off about 1.5 to 2 grains of powder. You should be able to produce good velocity and acceptable chamber pressures with significantly less powder with the magnum 9 1/2 Remington primers. You might try working up from around 50gr. and seeing what shoots accurately. But get a chronograph and see what the loads are doing.
 
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With magnum primers you need to use around 5 to 10% less powder in a standard cartridge. The primers are hotter and ignite more powder at once, so pressures go up for the same weight of powder, and so does burn rate, slightly. You can use them, just back the charge off and work up. Also, get a chronograph, so you can get good data on what you're doing. Watch for pressure signs, like cratered primers, flattened primers and stretched case heads. Sticky bolt lift is a pressure sign and so is a really shiney case head. If you see these signs, back off about 1.5 to 2 grains of powder. You should be able to produce good velocity and acceptable chamber pressures with significantly less powder with the magnum 9 1/2 Remington primers. You might try working up from around 50gr. and seeing what shoots accurately. But get a chronograph and see what the loads are doing.
 
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Unless I am using ball powder, I don't consider a mag primer until powder charge gets over 70gr or so, regardless of caliber. What I will do after working a load up with std primers is try a mag primer, see if it improves accuracy, but often it does not.
 
I reviewed my last post, and thought I'd expand on it a little. You can use a magnum primer for anything you use a regular primer for. You just need to work up a load using that primer. You'll need to start with light loads as listed in the reloading manuals and then increase the loads by about 1/2 grain until you reach an optimum velocity and accuracy level for what you want your loads to do. That's why you need a good chronograph. A Crony Beta will work for this. As I said before, magnum primers are hotter than regular primers, so you need to start with a lower charge and work up. However, you will normally reach target velocities with lower powder charges due to more uniform ignition using these primers. I have about 3000 magnum Large Rifle primers, but I haven't worked loads up for them, because I get excellent accuracy with Remington 9 1/2 standard primers in everything I load. My Whelen gets 1/2 in. groups with RL15 and Remington primers, Sierra Gamekings and Remington casings. (1in. groups with 250gr Speers) My .300s and 30-06's get less than an inch 5 shot groups with 9 1/2 primers and IMR4350 using Speer, Sierra and Nosler 180gr bullets. If you use the magnum primers, watch for pressure signs and start your powder charges at the minimum listed. Chronograph your loads and use the same bullets and brand of casings. Don't mix and match. Different casings have different powder capacities, stiffness and thicknesses. I use Remington or Winchester casings, with Remingtons having an edge in accuracy in most of my rifles.
 
Magnum Primers in 30 06

I've used for years Federal Magnum primers for 3031 powder in my 30 06 without any problems. I have slightly exceeded the upper limit on recommended loads and fired through a Rem 700with excellent accuracy. Maybe a bit more punch at the shoulder but never any signs of abnormal pressure. I live and hunt in the NW during freezing temps.
 
I load for two whelens, a rem 7600 and a Ruger 77mkII, both rifles like the 250 gr bullets, be it the 250 gr corelokt factory load or my 250 gr Hornady Interloks, both the RN and SP shoot to same point of impact at 100 yds. I've been loading 4064, re15 and 4831. I don't think you would have any advantage to using those primers in the whelen, which seems to do its best with medium burn rate powders. Then again every gun is different.
 
I work all my loads up with magnum primers, that's all I buy anymore.
 
I mostly use standard Rem 9 1/2 primers because I have a LOT of them, and most of my loads were worked up with these primers. I do have Winclhester LR primers and some Remington, Winchester and Federal Magnum primers I have picked up over the last couple of years, but I haven't worked up many loads for them. I get really good results with the Remington standard primers in cartridges as diverse as the 6mm Remington, 25-06 and 300 Winchester Magnum, and since I have a good source for them, I haven't seen a reason to change. They work extremely well in the 30-06 and the .35 Whelen. Group sizes generally are under an inch at 100 yds, which means ignition is very uniform. I use IMR 4350 in the 'o6 and .300, and RL15 in the .35.
 
My own personal guidelines are magnum primers with all powders slower than IMR4320, Ball Powders, and charges of over 60 grains. In reality, you can use magnum primers with any powder or charge as long as you work up your load. I use only CCI-450 small rifle magnum primers in a .223.
 

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