ECM rifling and my leaded up barrel...has ECM been the problem all along?!

My 629-6 gives me nothing but a headache with leading. I started with .429", went to .430" and may be trying .432" as a final resort. If I can't shoot lead in it without the headache then it's headed for restoring to factory specs and to the sale rack.
 
ECM Rifling - 2 questions

Has anyone tried lapping a barrel with ECM rifling?

Does S&W ECM 22 lr barrels?
 
Has anyone tried lapping a barrel with ECM rifling?

Does S&W ECM 22 lr barrels?

Yes, I had alot of trouble with lead until I did two things...one was lap the bore with JB Bore Bright until it shines like a mirror. {when looking at the surface of the bore with a borescope} Two was to cut a Taylor throat in all three EDM barreled guns I own. No more lead trouble at all, in fact I haven't had to "delead" the bores on any of them in a year worth of shooting cast bullets. The surface of the bore as new appears bead blasted in a borescope and I believe this helps lead stick. The forcing cones were really rough and chattered as well which I am sure didn't help anything. I have never had an accuracy problem with the newer barrels, all three guns are very accurate groupers. The top of the lands appear radiused not flat, this may contribute to some leading as well but if the surface is mirror smooth it gets harder for anything to stick. Takes a little doing but worth it to me.
 
A better bullet lube

I have one IL revolver, an M617 10 shot 22 LR. It leaded with enthusiasm -- shoot 50 rounds and there is a real problem. After I finished reamed the cylinder of all my 22 LR revolvers, leading stopped.

I believe my other S&W guns are pre-1995, calibers include 9 MM, 38 Spl, 357 mag, 40 S&W, 44 mag, 45 ACP. I shoot very few handgun jacketed or plated bullets, but 98% home cast and lubed lead bullets. I've used various mixtures of paraffin, bee's, and candle waxes mixed with Johnson's paste wax or Alox. What I learned that eliminated leading in WC and semi-wadcutter bullets, regardless of caliber or velocity, was the addition of Dexron 3 automatic transmission fluid.

I took what ever lube batch I had, a full 3# metal coffee can, heated it on a hot plate outdoors, poured enough to 3/4 fill a 1 quart pot, added 1/4+ to 1/2- cup of ATF. Stirred the mixture on low to medium heat for 10 minutes, then poured into "my" 9" x 13" aluminum cake pan. I than placed the cake pan in the garage refrigerator to harden. After an hour of cooling, the entire block fell out of the cake pan.

I am not going to expound on throat diameter, bore diameter, exact lube mixtures or proportions, or alloy composition. All that is on the Cast Bullet Forum. I'm just stating that adding ~
10% ± ATF to my lube eliminated all leading in pistol calibers.

I have loaded 40 rounds of 45-70 using this lube (compared to "factory" rifle lube) and had no leading in a 32" barrel with excellent accuracy at 100 yards in a Taylor's Arms Sharp's replica Quigley.

Sorry for being a windbag, I just wanted to offer my solution to leading with home-cast bullets.
 
Back when qualifications were shot with low bid 38 reloads... invariably soft swaged bullets. I learned to wipe down the gun inside and out... with BreakFree CLP before shooting. Especially bore and chambers. A "wet" patch then a "dry" patch leaving just a film. The fouling would be on top of the film and almost wipe off with a paper towel. I think I learned the trick from a gun mag... most likely Am. Handgunner.
After our Armourer (and friend) saw me do it. He tried it. At the next qualification, BreakFree was available in a pump sprayer.
 
Peppercorn,
TIP
I use flitz ecological non toxic formula to remove lead. Works great no fumes and safer to surface. I was looking for more user safe products and found this formula is pretty good.

Once your barrel is clean inspect with a light and magnifier.

S&W had some 60s that had non finished barrels mistakenly installed around the end of 2008.
Background
I have a 60-14 manufactured at the end of 2008, I bought it new in Jan 2009.
It had a bad barrel.
I inspected it visually but no light or magnifier.

Problem
Would not group. Reason, the barrel was not finished . The rifling and crown has very hard to detect uneven surface. Looked like thin film with wrinkles.
Remedy
S&W sent the mailer and replaced the barrel.
New barrel is dead on accurate and has no leading problems with commercial ammo.

Your barrel may be OK and it could be your ammo. But if the same ammo does not lead with other S&W revolvers , I would take a closer look at that 60.
 
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I have a roughly 1998/99 manufactured 686-5 with a 6" barrel. She's had lead shot through her for 20 years, and leads no more or less, than a conventional rifled barrel.

I run a Lewis through each chamber twice, and down the barrel twice, swab with solvent, dry swab, and an oily patch to finish.
 
interesting. had a feller in phx i buy ammo from tell me one time to run a handfull of jacketed thru it before cleaning and itd push the fouling out. never tried it but the logic of it makes sense. all i run is factory jacketed or plated ammo so i dont really get any leading issues
 
My 625 JM leaded very badly with H&G#68 bullets that I sized at .453, lubed with Alox, used 6 grains of Unique......and in about 3-4 cylinders downrange the bore was almost a smooth bore.

Had to use Dad's stash of Mercury to get to the bottom of it......now all I shoot in it are 230 FMJ's.....wasn't going to go through THAT again!!

Randy

PS. The exact same round in my 25-2 6" barrel shoots extremely well.....different rifling technique.
 
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