9mm powder for guy new to reloading

Accurate #7 was made for your request.

a double charge won't fit in the case. This is a great powder to duplicate 9mm NATO specs with nice, low pressure. In fact, I think that's what it was developed for.

This powder is the most accurate out of my Beretta 92 of any I've tried, averaging about 1.5 - 2" off a bench rest for 10 rounds at 25 yards with full house 124 gr. loads. It's one of my favorite 9x19 powders.

The only downside is that you have to use a lot per round, but that's going to be the case with any dense, slow burning powder that is impossible to double charge.
 
Last edited:
At this point in time, if you have to purchase powder, make a list from your loading manuals and purchase what is available.

I had to do that a month or so ago. My favorite powder for 38 sp. and 9mm has always been Bullseye. Right now, it's unobtanium. So, went to the store with a list and came home with WST.

With some research and information from experienced, trusted sources, I came up with some loads for both cartridges.

The Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading, fourth edition has data for WST in 9mm. It's available on line at no cost. (sorry, don't have a link).
 
Finished my bowl of popcorn. You never stated your press, technique, etc. I have a few friends that I would NEVER allow to use my stuff due to liability. Previous posts are good advice. I would never turn lose a newbie on my Dillons without serious scrutiny. I would turn them loose on my single stage stuff with instruction. I like Alliant (Unique, Red Dot, Power Pistol), WW (231/HP 38, 452AA). Do you have a selection of powder to work up some test loads for your friend? Have you searched the forum for compatible loads? I am interested in what you come up with on powder and you and your friends experience.
 
Last edited:
The only thing I don't like about the flake powders is that they don't meter too well. I haven't used Red Dot, but use quite a bit of Blue Dot.

Power Pistol is my usual go-to for several of my handguns, especially when doing full power loads, as it gives good velocities near the top of its load range. GeoJelly didn't mention what loading manual he is using, but I see a lot of variance between different manuals for the same cartridge; I also see a variance from the powder jug label when it shows load data, and from bullet manuals (Speer, Sierra, for example) when they show load data. I use Hornady manuals exclusively; not because I think it is best, but it's what I started with ten years ago, even the high end is safe, and I've stuck with a known quantity that is consistent and gives good results.

Another thing to think about is a phenomenon that is sometimes seen in lightly loaded cases, where there is a large "dead space". If I can find the link to the article, I'll post it here. I'm on my laptop and don't have the data with me, but I have it on my desktop.


Much like how I load. I divide my reloading into different "processes" that I try to do together. First thing is throw the fired cases in the tumbler to clean them, then I deprime and size them, and then bag them until the next step. Second is to prime them and flare them, and then they go in a bin so they're ready for charging and seating. Since I use a single stage press, I'm not switching dies except for the part of the process I'm at. I rarely crimp semiauto loads, never found it necessary, even for full-boat 10mm loads, and haven't had any issues with setback.

When charging, I either have the cases head-up in the block, or I take them directly from the bin, charge them, and set them in the block. I'll do 100 at a time, charging and seating. I use a digital scale, and I determine what charge weight I want from the manual, then set my powder throw by throwing a charge into the little pan, weigh it and repeat three or four times until I get withing a 1/10th variance between throws. Then I throw another 5 times and measure each one to see if the weight changes more than 1/10th grain. If stable, I start charging the cases directly from the powder throw, setting each charged case in the block. Then I start seating, and always measure the COL of the first three to make sure the die is set correctly; after that, I measure every tenth case to make sure nothing has moved. I always look into the case as I set it in the shell holder to seat the bullet, a final check for a double charge or no charge. I don't pay any attention to my phone if it rings while charging cases, and I don't have the radio on, nothing to distract me. I've seen way too many "Kaboom pictures" from overcharged cases, don't want my hands or face ripped up. On rifle cases, I weigh each charge, set intentionally low, and trickle to the desired weight. Takes longer, but is very precise.

For you guys who charge, then seat each round, are you using a carousel press with all your dies in place? I know my Lee dies allow charging through the flaring die, but I never do it that way.

No. I load on a single stage press. Charge the case and seat the bullet. When I have a batch of 50 or 100 seated I switch dies and crimp them all. And I use a beam scale. Digital ones aren’t as accurate in my experience. I do have the radio on, but that doesn’t worry me. Cases primer up in block assures me they are empty. After dropping and weighing the powder, I grab the case and check one more time that it is empty before I dump the powder into the case using a funnel. Then into the press to be seated

My brass prep is a little OCD but I like shiny brass and I enjoy making grungy brass look new again. I save my brass until I have about 300 cases. Then I wet tumble without pins just to get them clean enough to not dirty my dies. Deprime/resize them and then expand. Then a quick wet tumble with pins. When they are dry a quick tumble with crushed walnut and car polish. Now all that is necessary is to prime them while I’m watching TV and then into the bin for when the mood strikes.
 
Last edited:
I use Titegroup for 38 spl, 357 magnum and 9mm. Double charging with a Dillon Press (650 or 750 model) is quite difficult to do as the machine automatically advances with every crank of the handle. As long as the machine is working properly, you'd actually have to go out of your way and try to do it which is actually almost impossible. Anyone who is stillconcerned, can use the "extra station" for the auto powder checker - I personally find that unnecessary.
 
If you are trying to achieve the "Nato" load 124 gr. bullet / 1200 fps
,Acc #9 , HS-7 and Blue Dot would be powders to consider .

If you are concerned about metering Accurate powders meter very well
I would look hard at Acc #9 and Acc #7 will get you very close to 1200 fps .
Accurate #2 , #5 and #7 all flow like water , meter and even work well with a dipper ... If you like powders that flow and meter easily ... look at them .
Gary
 
Last edited:
I started with red dot because that was all I could find. Metered terribly. HP38 isn’t as bulky but a double charge would be obvious. Won’t ever happen to me anyway since I drop powder and seat immediately.

That's a dangerous line of thinking. I know of at least one case where a reloader that dropped and seated like you do did in fact double charge a case. It blew his .357 cylinder in half lengthwise.

He at first insisted it had to be something else, as his method was "foolproof" and it "could not have happened to him". Yet it was clear he must have double-charged his load of W231. After thinking about it he came to the conclusion that he had a very brief and minor distraction at one point and that must have been it.

But hey, I use a progressive at times. We all pays our monies and takes our chances. I'm not criticizing your procedure, just your unwarranted faith in its infallibility.
 
BULLSEYE

Don't think it to death, tiny case=fast powder. Bullseye's your friend here, 4.0grs under 115/124gr bullet doesn't matter which one. As ALWAYS, bullet profile/kerplunk test dictate seating depth. You can thank me later👍🏻😉
 
I posted a similar thread a little while ago and one of the members provide this link, I refer to it often.
9MM

As mentioned, some of his test are above maximum manual loads
and some are very low for the powder used.

A PF of 153 is where I usually pull the pin, in my high quality pistol.
 
Back
Top