0W-20 SYNTHETIC OIL???

Castrol Professional EDGE 0W-20…

…is the recommended oil for my Rangie.

Might surprise some to know the recommended oil change interval is 20K miles.

Yes, I will abide with that. Land Rover warranties the motor; suspect they know what they’re doing.

Be safe.

Note: BMW makes the motor. Believe they, too, know what they’re doing. 😎
 
There are many ways to defeat that system on new cars. One can just disconnect the control module from the + battery post which makes the shut-off devise non functioning. You can also buy a replacement switch (for most cars) that takes the place of the momentary contact switch and allows it to be turned off - but still function with another push of the switch IF you want it on. Some people simply fold a match book cover and jam it in on the side of the button to keep it pushed in constantly.

Our new car has the stop/start feature and since the momentary contact defeat switch is right near the ignition button we automatically just push it in every time we start the car - without even thinking about it. We just use two fingers at start up - lol.

Mine is right near the start button also. Must be a message there.:D
 
It's not about " Tighter tolerances " , etc. 0w-20 oil yields a slightly better fuel economy which is critical to conform to CAFE standards .

That will surprise my auto shop owner (for the past 20 years) who told me that. I personally have no direct knowledge of engine tolerances.
Actually it is both.

Multi-viscosity oil is formulated to meet specific viscosity parameters at two specific temperatures - the freezing and boiling point of water.

The 0W20 designation means that at 32*F the oil has the same properties as single-weight 0 viscosity oil. It has the same viscosity/thickness/flow characteristics as 0-weight oil. At 212*F it has the same viscosity/thickness/flow characteristics as 20-weight oil.

Modern engines have tighter tolerances (clearances) between the bearings and rotating parts - like the crankshaft, camshaft, & rod bearings. Those smaller clearances require thinner oil in order for the oil pump to be able to push the oil into the space between the bearings and the rotating parts. It is this pressurized oil that keeps the parts from actually touching and creating metal to metal contact and wearing out the parts.

Since cold oil is harder to pump and more resistant to flow, reduced viscosity at low temperatures makes it easier for it to flow and lubricate the parts when the oil is cold. As oil warms up it gets thinner - lowering viscosity - so it is important for the oil to have a higher viscosity rating at high temperatures so that it maintains its ability to lubricate the parts and prevent the metal to metal contact that wears out parts.

Higher weight, thicker oil creates more drag on the rotating parts and takes more power to turn the oil pump pushing the oil throughout the engine. That drag is a parasitic power loss - some of engine's power is wasted overcoming the drag and pumping resistance. Since that lost power comes from the engine burning fuel, the lost power is wasted fuel.

One other aspect of the resistance to flow is that that pumping resistance itself is a form of friction that adds even more heat to the oil. Simply pumping oil raises its temperature, and the thicker it is the more heat will be created in the oil just from the friction of being pumped through the system.

So thinner oil experiences less of this pumping friction and stays cooler. Heat is one of the things that causes oil molecules to break down, so less heat from pumping friction also helps the oil to last longer without breaking down. That's one of the reasons modern cars have so much longer recommended oil change frequencies. The oil holds up better and lasts longer before it starts to break down from heat.

One really great thing about synthetic oil is that the oil molecules are chemically engineered to all be identical length chains of molecules. "Natural" distilled oil contains a mix of different length molecule chains. So, the synthetic is much more uniform in its composition. You can think of it as tighter quality control.

This tighter quality control and consistency is another one of the main reasons that newer vehicles have much longer recommended oil change intervals. The oil maintains its consistency for much longer without breaking down.
 
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Biku324s comments on oil back in the day brought back memories. For you youngins, back then oil use of a quart per 1000 miles was common on vehicles. One also viewed vehicles with 50-60K miles as candidates for an overhaul. Not no more!

I had a bunch of old auto magazines and it seemed like every few pages had an ad for piston rings.
I guess modern metallurgy and petroleum engineering has taken its toll on that end of the business.
Remember the old motor oils were brown and green new in the bottle? Modern oils are such a light yellow the almost look like cooking oil.
 
Biku324s comments on oil back in the day brought back memories. For you youngins, back then oil use of a quart per 1000 miles was common on vehicles. One also viewed vehicles with 50-60K miles as candidates for an overhaul. Not no more!

Don't forget grinding valves at 30-50k and replacing points, plugs, condensers, rotors, and distributor caps routinely.
 
Actually it is both.

Multi-viscosity oil is formulated to meet specific viscosity parameters at two specific temperatures - the freezing and boiling point of water.

The 0W20 designation means that at 32*F the oil has the same properties as single-weight 0 viscosity oil. It has the same viscosity/thickness/flow characteristics as 0-weight oil. At 212*F it has the same viscosity/thickness/flow characteristics as 20-weight oil.

Modern engines have tighter tolerances (clearances) between the bearings and rotating parts - like the crankshaft, camshaft, & rod bearings. Those smaller clearances require thinner oil in order for the oil pump to be able to push the oil into the space between the bearings and the rotating parts. It is this pressurized oil that keeps the parts from actually touching and creating metal to metal contact and wearing out the parts.

Since cold oil is harder to pump and more resistant to flow, reduced viscosity at low temperatures makes it easier for it to flow and lubricate the parts when the oil is cold. As oil warms up it gets thinner - lowering viscosity - so it is important for the oil to have a higher viscosity rating at high temperatures so that it maintains its ability to lubricate the parts and prevent the metal to metal contact that wears out parts.

Higher weight, thicker oil creates more drag on the rotating parts and takes more power to turn the oil pump pushing the oil throughout the engine. That drag is a parasitic power loss - some of engine's power is wasted overcoming the drag and pumping resistance. Since that lost power comes from the engine burning fuel, the lost power is wasted fuel.

One other aspect of the resistance to flow is that that pumping resistance itself is a form of friction that adds even more heat to the oil. Simply pumping oil raises its temperature, and the thicker it is the more heat will be created in the oil just from the friction of being pumped through the system.

So thinner oil experiences less of this pumping friction and stays cooler. Heat is one of the things that causes oil molecules to break down, so less heat from pumping friction also helps the oil to last longer without breaking down. That's one of the reasons modern cars have so much longer recommended oil change frequencies. The oil holds up better and lasts longer before it starts to break down from heat.

One really great thing about synthetic oil is that the oil molecules are chemically engineered to all be identical length chains of molecules. "Natural" distilled oil contains a mix of different length molecule chains. So, the synthetic is much more uniform in its composition. You can think of it as tighter quality control.

This tighter quality control and consistency is another one of the main reasons that newer vehicles have much longer recommended oil change intervals. The oil maintains its consistency for much longer without breaking down.

It certainly has improved. In the late 70's we went through a stretch where temps never rose above zero and toughed 40 below for 3 weeks. We left a can of 10 W 40 and a can of 20 weight out overnight. The next morning we opened them with the same church key and poured them out. The straight 20 weight emptied much faster. Until I left Idaho, I stuck with 4 times a year oil changes and straight weights in oil.
 
When I was growing up, if your engine lasted to 100k without a full major overhaul, then you lucked out and got a REALLY GOOD ONE.

These days, any vehicle with an engine that DOESN'T run to at least 200k miles before needing an overhaul was a piece of junk to start with.

Improved manufacturing tolerances, precise computer fuel management, and dramatically improved oil quality are all contributing factors to the dramatic increases in engine longevity.

As much as I love the style and panache of 1960's-1970's muscle cars, today's cars are far better in mechanical terms. They are more reliable, more durable, more economical, more reliable performance, and they require a lot less maintenance.

JMO.
 
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Don't forget grinding valves at 30-50k and replacing points, plugs, condensers, rotors, and distributor caps routinely.

I bought a capacitor discharge ignition module and eliminated a lot of that*. The Scout wouldn't start one day and while trouble shooting discovered that the points had been in there so long the block that rode the distributor lobe had worn off. Plug wires & coils didn't last forever either. You had to use high quality plug wires with that ignition module or you could lift the hood at night and watch blue fire run across the plug wires with the engine running.

* All the normal distributor parts did was signal the capacitor to fire.
 
Speaking of ignition components…

…I ordered a 1974 Trans Am with the SD 455 motor. An option was a transistorized ignition. Yes, that is what it was called and was a first year option, IIRC.

It eliminated the need for points, condenser, etc. and worked great.

Sure do wish I still had that car. 🥲

Be safe.
 
Need pictures of that first year!

I do have a photo of a near duplicate I saw at a diner. Told the guy it was what I drove in high school. He said the car was his high school car that he never sold. Obviously, he was a wiser man than I. Unfortunately, I've never been able to post a photo on this forum.
 
When I was growing up, if your engine lasted to 100k without a full major overhaul, then you lucked out and got a REALLY GOOD ONE.

These days, any vehicle with an engine that DOESN'T run to at least 200k miles before needing an overhaul was a piece of junk to start with.

Improved manufacturing tolerances, precise computer fuel management, and dramatically improved oil quality are all contributing factors to the dramatic increases in engine longevity.

As much as I love the style and panache of 1960's-1970's muscle cars, today's cars are far better in mechanical terms. They are more reliable, more durable, more economical, more reliable performance, and they require a lot less maintenance.

JMO.

The difference is, you can still work on a '64 GTO with common tools but can't do anything on a 2025 (vehicle of your choice) without special tools and a computer.
 
Some of the first CD or transistorized ignitions had some unfortunate quirks.
Volkswagens' could be disabled by nearby CB radio transmissions.
Napa sold a conversion for small block Chevys that could be fried by turning on the heater motor.
 
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